My 1994 Accord non-Vtec 2.2 LX starts and stop immediately, I have been troubleshooting some issues and have already ruled out some issues.

New parts already in car (within the past year)
Alternator
Starter
Distributor
Spark plugs
Spark cables
Fuel filter
Valve cover and plug gaskets

The OBD1 codes 3 (MAP sensor) and 15 (Ignition output system), I put in a new MAP sensor and reset the the codes and now I only have the code 15, good news? Not sure if the car needs to run to get more codes, still same problem of starting and only lasting a few revs. As for other issues the ICM comes new with the distributor.

Checked all the ignition and starter fuses. The spark plugs are firing fine as the engine was in rotation for a second, which leads me to believe the fuel is cutting out, but that doesn't make sense for the code I'm getting. Any help is appreciated.

 

What brand of distributor did you use?

 

try holding the key when you start it up in the on position...if it stays on...ignition switch....i had the same issue

 

Go with the basics man.Spark! Compression! Fuel and Timing!

 

It has fuel and it has spark. It fires well for a second or two. Compression and timing arent an issue.

The distributor is from advance auto parts (not sure brand I think intermotor?)

The coil pack works fine, I'm thinking either the ICM or a wire from the ICM. Not sure why that would die in under a year.

 

If everything is working fine there is no reason for the car to stall!
Another thing is if you are saying that there is a spark present then the ignitor if fine also!You are missing something.

 

Test the ICM, coil and there wiring for a diagnostic trouble code 15.

Check your messages, PM Sent

 

Does it seem to die just as you let go of the key-meaning once you let go from start to run/on does it die. Check for 12v at the blk/yel wire when the key is in the on pos.

 

All my injectors and fuel pressure have been tested, still fires and stops instantly. The igniter has been tested and works fine. Blk/yel wire to the ICM gets voltage, still had a code 15. The wierdest part is I had the car running for the weekend, and the problem started again, I installed a new ICM and still have good spark. I have been using a haynes manual, along with any online help I've gotten.

I reset the OBD1 code after the new ICM. When I turn the key to the on (II) position I hear the fuel pump and engine light is on but the light clicks off (maybe in tandem with MPFI relay click). When I jump the diagnostic wire the engine light is on and stays on (no flashing), is that a code 0? Which I believe means a bad ECU or bad ECU ground? Correct me if I'm wrong.

Last thing I can think to check is the ECU wiring, haven't taken up the carpet and checked the wires there yet. Other than that I'm at a loss and probably gonna give it the dealership to diagnose (ewwww!).

 

Were the spark and fuel pressure tested while the car had problem to start or in general?The car will run poorly if it is a "secondary"component that makes a trouble but for a car to stall something basic is missing.If after you turn the key on and wait a bit the MIL goes away that means that you ECM is past the self check.

 

A solid CEL with the SCS connector jumped means that there are no stored codes. There is nothing wrong. A DTC 0 is when the CEL doesn't come on at all when the SCS is shorted.

You say that you have fuel and good spark. Have you checked your timing?

 

Did you check the ICM connections inside the distributor for tightness and corrosion? This is a very basic but often overlooked part of the ignition system. The solid MIL light means there aren't any stored DTC's.

 

I've had the ICM connections go bad on mine myself. good tip

 

I had the car running for the weekend, never drove it away, but it ran for at least 10 minutes. Then of course the same issue started acting up again.

There is a brand new distributor on now, couldn't buy the ICM alone from advance or autozone. I think I found the ground 101, located on the end of the intake manifold (not on the thermostat or engine wall), I cleaned with a wire brush and tried starting. When I crank the engine, same original problem: starts, and then stops instantly. I can give it throttle and it will try to stay alive longer, but electronics won't let it, timing is fine.

Now heres the weird part, while extracting OBD1 codes, I am getting my code 15 (don't know why) again from the check engine light, but now also my ABS light is flashing giving me a code 1 8. 1 8 ABS code means high pressure system (not sure exactly what that means, high pressure in my hydraulic brake lines??) Now It seems I'm back to the beginning.

 

I am having the same problem. Starts, runs for a second, then shuts off. Sometimes if I leave the key in the II position there's a loud errrrr sound. My CEL isn't throwing any codes. I am about to replace the distributor. Did you ever track down the problem?

 

I installed a new ECU in mine, there is also a new MAP sensor, it runs, but i have a varying idle, but still gets me to work just fine.

But I also had a new dist from the year before.