Hi guys. I'm new to the forum, so if I exclude any info please let me know.
I'm not a mechanic and not extremely familiar with honda terminology either.
Just a DIY kinda person. Here's a quick run down of what has happened.

I bought a 91 civic dx last year with a junk motor. The car had a d15b2 and an automatic trans in it. I knew it was junk but got a good deal so I bought it knowing that a swap would be in order. I was then given a rear ended 95 coupe with the factory d16z6 vtec and a manual trans installed to perform a swap.

I want to use the 91 hatch as a DD back and forth to work. I read all the tech articles I could find before starting and it seemed like it wouldn't be a problem fitting and I was under the impression that the mounts would match. Here's where I'm stuck. Me and a friend yanked the motor and trans out of the hatch and set it aside. Then we yanked the motor and trans out of the coupe and started it down into the hatch. Now, none of the mounts are working. I took the main mounts off of the driver and pass sides and shaved them down to fit inside their brackets but still cannot get the engine/trans positioned to fasten them.

I wanted to do this swap keeping the motor and trans together. However I'm not able to position the engine correctly because the back of the trans is hitting the k member and the alternator is hitting the driver side wall. I don't know what to do and I'm completely stuck here with two cars torn apart.

Does anyone have any ideas or direction; or who have perhaps done this swap before?? Please help! Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

 

Take the timing belt covers off the Z6 motor and put your stock motor mount on there. You will have to have the opening out of the timing covers to fit around the changed out mount.
You are going to need a conversion harness to get the motor to run correctly with the correct ECU. (hope you got the ECU with your swap!)

Two approaches for the rest of it:
(Use your stock axles for either way)

#1
Use your stock tranny to make this easier. It will bolt up to the new motor.
Make sure you use the cable transmission throw-out bearing.
I believe you can use the D16Z6 clutch (you'll have to do a little more searching to verify).

#2
If you try to use the 95 tranny then you need to get a conversion kit so that you would be able actuate the hydraulic with your stock cable system.
(This links to HASports kit http://hasport.com/store/index.php/m...-ef/efdhc.html)
-OR- you convert your car from under the dash at your pedals all the way to the transmission to a hydraulic system and completely eliminate the stock cable system.

You would also need a mount kit that is compatible with the hydraulic trans. (This is included in the kit I linked to)
If you go ahead with the conversion to the hydraulic trans, keep in mind that the D16Z6 transmission is notorious for 3rd gear grind. You may having to pull it all apart again to deal with that problem

 

Wow, 4drEF. Exactly what I was looking for and in less than 30 mins!

Thank you.

The donor car is complete with all wiring and ECU. I will want to use the manual z6 trans and convert from the pedals to the trans along with switching the shifter and stock cable system and all that. I will pull it back out for a rebuild if necessary. I was going to try to use the axles from the donor car too, thanks for telling me not to and saving me the time.

Will this mount kit fix my problems with the alternator and trans clearance issues? Or will things need 'modified' or cut up (which I do not want to do)? I can see in the picture how the rear mount in the kit will work but I am unsure what the rest will be used for.

Thanks so much for your help so far.

 

That kit in the link shows how to use your stock pedals with the stock cable line.
It adapts the transmission so there is no longer a 'slave' cylinder from the hydraulic system.

If you want to mount the trans and NOT go with the stock cable actuation, then you will still need a mount kit to get the trans to bolt up to the chassis. You will also need a kit to adapt your pedal assembly to hydraulic. Contacting HASport or InnovativeMounts would give you the best list of what exactly you need to buy. From what I'm looking at, it's going to be in the range of $600. Not worth it in my opinion, but to each his own.


I should rephrase the axle thing.
For sure your stock axles will work, but it's hit or miss if you try the newer axles. Some have a larger cup at the hub end that binds up in the knuckle when it's all put together.

I'm pretty sure you keep your stock shifter with either trans.

Hard to tell what clearance issues you have without pics, but swapping out the mount by the timing belt is required as the Z6 has a tilt to it that your stock motor does not. Maybe that tilt is what is causing your problems on the alternator side.

 

Thanks again 4drEF for your quick response.

The hatch is automatic from the factory so the pedal assembly and shifter will need to be added/replaced with parts from the donor car. I do not see anywhere on the link on how to remove the slave cylinder.

It could be that the driver side mount is possibly causing the clearance issues but the stock mount previously on the d15b2 will not fasten properly to the z6 - the holes are different.

 

WHAT EF4DR IS SAYING ABOUT THE MOUNT IS U HAVE TO TAKE THE MOUNT AND THE BRACKET OFF THE D15B2 MOTOR AND MOUNT THAT TO THE Z6 MOTOR FITS LIKE A GLOVE JUST TRIM THE TIMING COVER PLASTIC

 

My concern is that the 92~95 pedals and shifter/shift rods may not be compatible with the 88~91 chassis.
I know for fact the 88~91 shifter/rods and pedals are compatible with the 88~91 chassis and that they make the conversion kits based on these parts.


Pics for the D16Z6 and 90~91 engine mount comparison.
(Props to '24TEN' for these pics that I swiped from his build thread)

D16Z6 mount


88~91 mount

 

http://www.dreambeamz.com/crx/auto2man.htm

this link may help with the pedal^^^

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/automatic-manual-swap-2237928/

heres another thread that might help you out too.^^^

hope this helps u get R done.

 

I appreciate everyone's help with this. I will work on it tomorrow and see what I can do about using the old motor mount on the z6. Wish me luck, I'll most likely be back to ask some more questions.

Thanks again.

 

the swaps ive done on efs sometimes you have to beat the wall where the alternator is hitting so that it can clear it

 

That's true for B-series, but D's are drop in replacements.

 

dont forget to use the stock engine harness to the b2. also it would probably be alot easier to use a cable tranny and add in the clutch pedal, cable, ect. also ur gonna have to convert it from dpfi to mpfi and to obd1. there are coversion harness that have both that u just wire in. u can find instruction on the internet on how to do everything. it just takes some searching.

 

here ill make it easy. this is all the info i used to swap my motor (sohc zc vtec). its not all for sohc vtec's but all the info is in there to get it done. always good to bookmark so u can find it later!

http://www.nobodysuspectsthewagon.co...cm-wiring.html
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/techni...-diagrams.html
http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-ed-ef-da...0-89-ef-90498/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/dpfi-obd0-mpfi-obd1-swap-2893829/

 

heres somemore...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/diy-dpfi-mpfi-swap-made-easy-2889205/
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/934/obdconvertes7.jpg
http://media.photobucket.com/image/d...izzyConn-3.jpg

 

Thank you guys. I got the driver's side mount on after removing and notching out the timing belt cover but I was on orders all weekend and didn't get a chance to touch the car anymore - hopefully this week will allow me to finish it up. Also, (I'll prob get bashed on here for this but..) I am not too familiar with what obd# actually means, though I hear the terms thrown around a lot. I appreciate the links and photos gettin_there.

 

OBD is a standard set in place for getting manufacturers to design reliable emission control equipment. You get a check engine light if something goes bad with your engine which would effect your smog test.

The first (1) Honda OBD started in 1992 wiht OBD-1. 1996 started the second version, OBD-2. There have been updates to OBD-2, but no major changes so there are letters after OBD-2 to designate the changes, OBD-2a, OBD2b, etc.

Before OBD-1 there wasn't any OBD regulation in place. However, Honda did have a check engine light diagnostic system in place. The Honda scene refers to this as OBD-0, but it really isn't related to OBD at all. It's really before OBD was released so it's pre-OBD.
Everything

 

Ah, understood - thank you 4drEF.

There's no way of removing OBD-1/2? Or will the engine just not run if it's not all in working order?

 

Sure - you could use carburetors and not use any sensors at all.
Or you could go with a stand-alone aftermarket fuel injection solution that doesn't use the Honda ECU at all.

The ECU (computer) dictates what OnBoardDiagnostic you have.

You can get a stock ECU chipped and then have it tuned specifically for your motor needs. This process will take advantage of the sensors on your engine which are on there because of the OBD.

 

That's very interesting. I think a stand alone fuel system may be something I'll be looking into when I have a little more $$$. Thanks for the info man!

 

Not sure if there would be any benefit to doing so.
Those systems can run in the thousands of $s.

There are upgrades to a stock computer (Hondata) that adds support for much much more.

I guess I'm just unsure what you are trying to achieve by getting away from the stock computer. The term OBD seems to have spooked you for some reason.

 

4drEF,

I took apart the 92 clutch pedal and took the reservior and all that off and you were right about it not being compatible with the 91 chassis. The bracket that holds the pedal and the peice that comes through the firewall for the bracket to mount to both do not have the room to be mounted so here is my question.

What should I do.. start cutting/drilling and just make it work? Or should I pick up a clutch pedal from a 91 civic. My only issue is I'm wondering if a 91 clutch pedal is going to work with the hydro trans without a whole lot of additional parts. I see that you mentioned earlier kits and conversions, what do these include? And where could I find them? Please keep in mind that.. this vehicle is automatic from the factory - I got both cars pretty much for free - while I'd like to have the car running, I'm not on a timeframe - and I'm also trying to do this spending the least amount of money I can.

Thank you for your help sir!

 

IMO you should try to trade the hydro tranny for a cable si one..
Itd be a lot simpler and a lot less expensive if your talking buying mount kits and adapters etc.. If you get a cable tranny it'll drop right in you'll need shift linkage (idk if 92-95 is the same?) and a pedal assembly but try to match it as close to your car as possible I remember hearing that efs have different pedal assembly's depending on year so make sure they'll work with your car..
Then dpfi to mpfi swap And an obd1 conversion and your there