2000 Civic Si Sway Bar/Subframe Question.
I know with some cars when you install a aftermarket sway bars it's important to add a subframe. I installed a neuspeed rear sway bar, is the 2000 si a car where u need to add the aftermarket subframe to prevent damage.
It is a good idea to pick up the sub frame brace if you plan on going with a sway bar 19mm or bigger I would assume.
The SI already comes with a 13 or 14mm sway stock. The subframe is slightly beefier than that of a EX/DX/etc etc etc, too. But you can either spend $150-$200 on insurance, or take a chance and possibly rip out your subframe, destroying the car.
The SI already comes with a 13 or 14mm sway stock. The subframe is slightly beefier than that of a EX/DX/etc etc etc, too. But you can either spend $150-$200 on insurance, or take a chance and possibly rip out your subframe, destroying the car.
not that i know of. if your just DDing it i wouldn't worry about it at all.
...they most certainly did. pry got taken off before selling.
otherwise or if you just want one f7/asr.
...they most certainly did. pry got taken off before selling.
otherwise or if you just want one f7/asr.
This is what i had installed
http://import.neuspeed.com/192/0/0/5...-sway-bar.html
Can i get away with just getting a lower tie bar or do i need to get the subframe?
http://import.neuspeed.com/192/0/0/5...-sway-bar.html
Can i get away with just getting a lower tie bar or do i need to get the subframe?
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This is what i had installed
http://import.neuspeed.com/192/0/0/5...-sway-bar.html
Can i get away with just getting a lower tie bar or do i need to get the subframe?
http://import.neuspeed.com/192/0/0/5...-sway-bar.html
Can i get away with just getting a lower tie bar or do i need to get the subframe?
It is a good idea to pick up the sub frame brace if you plan on going with a sway bar 19mm or bigger I would assume.
The SI already comes with a 13 or 14mm sway stock. The subframe is slightly beefier than that of a EX/DX/etc etc etc, too. But you can either spend $150-$200 on insurance, or take a chance and possibly rip out your subframe, destroying the car.
The SI already comes with a 13 or 14mm sway stock. The subframe is slightly beefier than that of a EX/DX/etc etc etc, too. But you can either spend $150-$200 on insurance, or take a chance and possibly rip out your subframe, destroying the car.
All these do is give you the threaded hole to install the sway bar barket.
The ASR kit comes with these, if any one is wondering what I am talking about. All they do is slip into the subframe.
Other than that, they are no different. They are not stronger then any other EK subframe. For the exception, the CTR which was factory renforced.
Don't go any bigger without a subframe brace. HOWEVER some don't require them. IE, the 22mm progress bar. It doesn't need anything due to the way it bolts onto the subframe.
I actually got it brand new on ebay for $150 it was an open auction and not to many people bid. Is $150 a decent price?
Thx for the info it sounds like right now i should be safe without the subframe. It doesn't look real fancy just bolted on to stock holes and was very easy to install.
Thx for the info it sounds like right now i should be safe without the subframe. It doesn't look real fancy just bolted on to stock holes and was very easy to install.
I actually got it brand new on ebay for $150 it was an open auction and not to many people bid. Is $150 a decent price?
Thx for the info it sounds like right now i should be safe without the subframe. It doesn't look real fancy just bolted on to stock holes and was very easy to install.
Thx for the info it sounds like right now i should be safe without the subframe. It doesn't look real fancy just bolted on to stock holes and was very easy to install.
You should be fine, BUT, a brace would not be a bad idea. Just peice of mind/insurance.
It will be my next purchase then the asr ones look good. I did header exaust intake just to give it a little boost that's about as far as I was going to go with the engine. I basically want to upgrade all of the suspension. Was going to get eibach shocks and springs, new cambers, rear strut bar and possibly a front strut bar if I have some money left over the si's already have a strut bar stock so that would be the last upgrade.
I live in northern California and we have some great mountain areas with crazy winding roads I want to have some fun on. But want to really upgrade everything first.
I live in northern California and we have some great mountain areas with crazy winding roads I want to have some fun on. But want to really upgrade everything first.
In that case, make sure you get some nice sticky street tires. I recommand Dunlop Dirreza Z1 Star Spec. Best bang for buck imo.
Don't waste so much money on strut bars. There are really a lot more places you could spend money and get better results. Like tires or seat time at your local autocross.
Also I doubt your intake and header really gave you much of a boost. You probably just shifted the power band to the top end and it feels faster because it's louder and your wallet is lighter.
Also I doubt your intake and header really gave you much of a boost. You probably just shifted the power band to the top end and it feels faster because it's louder and your wallet is lighter.
My friend works at a performance shop and when I bought the car he dyno'd it after hours off the clock for me. I did h/e/I and replaced the wires and plugs and it increased it by 16. And I feel a big difference in 2nd and 3rd gear.
If your plugs had never been replaced you might have gotten 10whp from that alone.



