Oks I have a 99 si with the b16a2 and im looking in a complete NA build so plz no "U should turbo it" advice..

Ill be basically piecing together my own stroker hit and my main question so far is should i leave my stock cylinder walls at 81mm and have the stroker displace it to a 1.75 liter or bore it to 84mm and have it displaced to a 1.9 liter engine? And if i go with the 1.9 liter what would that do tu my redline? keeping in mind ill have the whole valvetrain done up... And the end result the engines compression would be brought up to 11:1



Cookbook so far.. looking for suggetsions and comments

b16 bored to 81mm or 84mm depending..
CP high comp pistons
Eagle connecting rods
B18 or LS crankshaft
SKunk2 pro series stage 2 camshafts
SKunk2 Springs/Retainers & valves
P72 virgin Ecu
Hondata S200

I just keep thinking im missing things since im new to the game and still learning

 

You might want to look into higher compression. 11:1 is decent, but those cams would be best utilized with 11.5:1 and up. As far as the whole displacement issue, I am not really sure you are starting with the best platform. The rods you would have to get from Eagle would be a bit pricey I would imagine. Although I have never dealt with after market rods before, you may want to wait until someone else chimes in. Why not buy a decent 1.8 liter block and ditch the whole mix and match idea?

Anytime you start stroking a motor, you are messing with the rod/stroke ratio, which will affect the engine's ability to rev high. The b16 is great by itself because you can rev it to high heaven, as long as you have the supporting mods to make power that high. Once you get it tuned, you will know how high to rev it. My final thoughts would be to avoid messing with the stroke as of right now. You are too new to these engines to make a decision like that.

 

To my knowledge, I wouldnt stroke the b16, just seeing as how that would affect the R/S ratio. Boring it out isnt such a bad idea, an idea Im actually considering myself. You might as well do a full rebuild whil your down there, lol. I'm not sure of the setup but I have seen a bored out 85mm sleeved b16. You also still maintain the R/S ratio.

 

so im also building my jdm b16a and i am goin w b17 crank and rods along with some oversized pistons probably 82mm

 

by goin w the b17 crank and rods u keep a good r/s ratio for high revs and u get some displacement along w it to get that torque up a little... and then goin w some over sized pistons will also help that displacement.

 

ur definitely gonna need that head work to compensate for all that compression. with the setup i said it will put u around 11.5:1-12:1 and give u a true 1.7 unlike the b17a's 1677 actual cc's

 

and if u wanna get more displacement go bigger bore but anything over 83mm u have to sleeve it.

 

ull be putting out about 180 to 200 whp depending on wat u do to the head and it will be reliable

 

There is no way of knowing how much power he will be making without building it and getting it tuned. He doesn't NEED head work to compensate for compression. Compression is compression. Head work would definitely help the motor make power, but it is not necessary.

How do you know what his compression would be? It depends on what piston he decides to use. He said he wanted it to be around 11:1, not 11.5:1 or 12:1.

The safest maximum bore in a Honda motor is 82mm, not 83mm. 82mm is the OEM factory limit to bore size.

 

bore to 82mm, open up the head, and work on your gear ratio's... win, win, win

 

The more I read this thread, the more I realize that this all seems like a pain in the ***. I don't really know what you are trying to do.

 

i was sayin he would have to get it sleeved if he went 83mm or more or thats wat i ment only because he was talkin about goin 84mm. in my earlier post i suggested 82mm which i am goin with. and i know he doesnt need head work to make power i was sayin the head work will really utilize the comp.

 

The Goal is to make 200 whp with a reliable motor and keeping it NA. the motor is going to have work done to the block as well as the head the whole valvetrain will be redone get the best use of the cams and block. ill be going to a slightly higher compression to get that little extra but my concern is keeping the stock block so i dont get pulled over and reffed for a motor swap.. i kno it would be easier to do an Ls or b20 swap but the vin will not match the rest of the car..

id like to keep my rev at 8 grand at the least.. my confusion is with the stroking over the motor and if i bore out the sleeves a bit how much is too much to keep my rev up to 8 or 9 thousand RPM.. id like to bore and sleeve my b16 block to 84mm and higher comp pistons and stroke it diff obviously but i cant find any good info on someone whos done it... all im getting is opinions and things that myte happen..

 

im in the middle of the same thing but got some good ideas from people thats wat u gotta do.... take these ideas and put them together that best siuts you.

 

r u going to be keeping the stock cams and just get the valves and springs replaced or the whole head is gonna be beefed up like cams... i ask this cause if thats the case u dont really need to go that big on the bore to get 200whp w reliabilty, 82mm should do u just fine then u wouldnt have to sleeve the block just do a mild stroke w 82mm bore and the head work... i have seen similar biulds like this producing give or take a little, 200whp.... AND THE HORSE POWER IS JUST A GUEES, depending on the cams and some of the other little things u cann do

 

dude im doing the same thing you are basically. i highly highly suggest/recomend you watch the omniman dvd. i learnded so much. you really dont need to do anything to the bottom end besides a few small things. its definatly one of the best learning tools i have ever gotten. its called omniman na b16 200whp. he makes 126 hp per liter (thats a lot)

 

cool i will check it out u can never stop learning

 

on my all motor b16a set up with the pro 1s and 11:1 compression (tuned on s300) i made around the 180whp with 106wtq mark. Now i had a good tuner but the bore and stroke are stock on the motor.

I am pretty sure with pro 2s and a good tune with the 11:1 compression you will make good top end power but thats all it is, top end. Mid/low end will be a lil laggy. If you do raise the compression a bit, say 11.5 or 12, then you may cut out a lil bit of that lag.
I would suggest some porting too

 

Tucked B16 id love to see a dyno chart or more mods of your build including exhaust..

Ive heard similar advice this is why i was going to go with sleeving the block to 84mm to increase the bottom end torque... but i would like to get some feedback on what i can safely rev the bigger pistons too..

The valvetrain will be all re done springs retainers cams and valves.. and for the block im still looking for high quality light rods and bearings

 

wouldnt this require custom rods? Is there a off the shelf for a b16 dect height using a 89 crank?

 

Yes the rods will def have to be custom to find the right stroke