ok so i have a jdm D15b in my 94 cx hatch.. my problem is that i recently did a valve adjustment and i want to reset the ignition timing but ive been having problems adjusting it. first off before i began to set the timing i had a code 7 CEL for the TPS being disconnected somehow.? i connected the TPS and i have no CEL.. NOW..when i try to jump the connector on the passenger kickpanel to do the timing the CEL flashes.. is it not supposed to be turned on solid and not flashing? i pulled the ECU fuse from under the hood to maybe reset it and yet it still continues to flash on and off counting the code 7..

 

Did you remove the 7.5A hood Back Up fuse for 3 or more minutes? What are the three wire colors in the 3P TPS connector?

 

well i removed the 15 ecu fuse for like 2 minutes.. i just removed it again as well as disconnected the battery..

and the colors for the tps connector are yellow, red and green

 

ive done timing many time on my mini me with a z6 head and never use a jumper wirer what is the reason for having to use a jumper wire

 

You are removing the WRONG fuse:

 

ok so it worked now it stays solid..but i cant even set it on the middle marking for 16 degrees.. i think its off a tooth because i move the dizzy all the way forward towards the radiator and i have the timing gun set at 16 but its still far off.. any ideas??

 

Why are you doing your timing after a valve adjustment?

 

First: are you sure that you're using the correct timing mark?

If you think the timing is off, verify by lining up the TDC mark on the crank with the two gunsights on the timing belt cover. (Remove the spark plugs.) When the crank is at TDC, the cam should be at TDC as well. Look at the cam sprocket. The word "UP" will be up (obviously) and two of the lines on the crank sprocket will be parallel to the top of the head. If the timing between the cam and the crank is off, then you will need to remove and reinstall the belt at the correct position.

 

OP is talking about changing the ignition timing.

 

Correct.
OP was concerned: " i think its off a tooth "

I was detailing how to check that. If a poor procedure was used during the previous timing belt change, it may very well be off by a tooth or more. Keep in mind that the cam controls the distributor - thus the timing belt indirectly controls the igniton timing.

 

Do you have a timing gun with adjustable advance? Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought you were supposed to set that to 0, and then use the 3 marks on the crank pulley and the mark on the timing belt cover. If the cam was that far off, it would have ran like crap. I saw a D15B2 run one tooth off, and it just sounded horrible and barely ran at all.

 

sorry for the hi-jacking, but i have a similar problem.
i have a mini me z6, p28 ecu.
my crank pulley and cam marks are correct at TDC.
problem is when i try to adjust the timing, i cant even get it close to the mark.
car runs fine though (even at 20 degrees)

Would this be a dizzy issue? seems to have only happened since i replaced it.

 

Post crisp clear pictures of your cam and crank set at TDC1.

 

i appreciate the quick reply Ron, but I am 100% sure my timing belt is right.
car runs great at 20 degrees ignition timing, just dont understand why?
Even the Hondata s300 interface is showing 20 degrees.

 

Wouldn't hurt to post some convincing pictures. Is the cam stock or aftermarket?

 

ok i will post pics.
the cam PULLEY is aftermarket, but set at 0.
With the previous dizzy, I didnt have this freak incident.

 

 

I see two marks on the cam gear. How do you know whether you aligned the right one with the pointer?

 

i tried it the other way and it runs like crap.
i believe with the z6, you go with the two side marks being horizontal with the surface of the head.
the other mark is for the b7.

 

The diagram I posted shows that the Z6 uses the pointer alignment with a mark on the cam pulley.

If you align the pointer with the other mark on the cam pulley, can you adjust the ignition timing to the red mark on the crank pulley? When you adjust the ignition timing, are you jumping the service connector?

My guess is still that your problem is due to the cam no being set properly to TDC1.

 

if i use the other mark, the 2 side marks wont align with the head.
ive used that cam pulley for 4 years, and only since I replaced the dizzy have i had this problem.well, its really not a problem since it runs good and gets 37 mpg.
the dizzy was $100 (ebay) instead of $220 (oreillys).

Still dont understand how it can show 20 degrees off and ...you know

I will try the other mark again and let you know what happens.
Thanks for all the help.

 

If you look at the diagram I posted, the two side marks should not align with the top of the Z6 head. Instead, the pointer should align with a mark on the cam pulley.

Not sure. Perhaps the adjustable cam gear has allowed you to compensate for the mechanical timing being off by a tooth.

 

at my wits end.
just decided to use the old dizzy, and replace the coil and ignitor.
i will inform of the results.

 

after some investigation and comparison, I found out that the newer dizzy's camshaft connector was 20 degrees different than the older dizzy.
i put both next to each other and put the rotors in the same spot where the ignitor makes contact...

then i looked at the other side...

it was a noticeably 20 degree difference in the two.
so i exchanged the good coil to the old dizzy, reinstalled, fired it up, and the marks were on time.
You get what you pay for, I guess.

 

i have an adjustable timing gun...but i thought your supposed to adjust the timing on the gun according to the markings on the crank.. ??