Hot no start d15z1 (not main relay)
Sorry to have to post another hot no start thread but I am about out of ideas for what is causing my issue. I have replaced battery, coil, igniter, plugs, cap, rotor, and re soldered the main relay. What happens is when i shut my car off when the motor has warmed up it will crank all day but not start. This happens in all weather conditions including below freezing temperatures. If I push start it it will fire up but if the starter is turning the motor then no love for at least an hour. My next stop is going to be wires, possibly re soldering the main relay again and maybe ignition switch. Beyond that I have no clue. Any guesses or advice out there? I have heard some people talking about coolant temp sensors causing this issue but my temp gauge never goes over half way.
Last edited by snypez; Aug 15, 2011 at 08:25 AM. Reason: add more info
Have you checked to see what is missing, no spark or no fuel?
Try this, turn ign. switch on to run, [not start] can you hear the fuel pump prime, if so check for power at the fuel injectors, [lead that is the same color on all 4 injector plugs], check for power to the distributor assembly, black/yellow, if both good, recheck for power on both again when cranking to start. 94
Try this, turn ign. switch on to run, [not start] can you hear the fuel pump prime, if so check for power at the fuel injectors, [lead that is the same color on all 4 injector plugs], check for power to the distributor assembly, black/yellow, if both good, recheck for power on both again when cranking to start. 94
Thanks for the reply. The fuel pump does prime and after a few seconds of cranking there is a smell of fuel so I would assume the issue is weak spark (since I can push start). I will check the power at run and at cranking for dizzy and injectors and report back when I can. Since this is an intermittent problem it can be a pain to diagnose. Does anyone know of a good way to test and see if the starter is causing too much of a voltage drop when it cranks? I read something about a dome light test but I don't know for sure if that was it.
Just to clarify the reason I have not checked for spark using the usual method when the car is acting up is it is near impossible to do with one person and usually when it acts up I am away from home and alone. I strongly suspect the issue is spark related because as I mentioned above, I both hear the pump run and smell fuel after cranking for a few seconds (and if I pull a plug). Could incorrect temperature range plugs cause this? I didn't double check when I replaced them, I just took what the computer at the parts store said would work in a 95 civic vx (ngk platinums).
Wrong heat range would be a problem but then it would not be an intermittent problem.
What color are the plugs?
It sure sounds like a power, [current] problem if it is a no start when cranking but will "push start".
Have you checked your main grounds and main power connections? 94
What color are the plugs?
It sure sounds like a power, [current] problem if it is a no start when cranking but will "push start".
Have you checked your main grounds and main power connections? 94
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