I blew my diff. and so i tore the trans apart and replaced the final drive with a 4.7 and a new diff. put it back in and drove the car. drove fine, reverse was fine. then i saw that i had a leak.. had to tear the trans back apart. and re seal. and now. when i go into reverse. i feel it latch in. but when i start to move backwards it pops out and makes a terrible grinding noise. lol. with a lot of patience and feathering and popping in and out i finally can get it far enough reversed to go forward, but this is harsh lol. i no longer work at the shop i did anymore so i have no access to a lift and my apartment complex doesnt appreciate pulling transmissions in the parking lot. is there anything i can do that may fix the culprit,? level issue, linkage? or am i gonna have to pull the trans and see what ****ed up with the reverse?

 

Sounds like you installed the reverse idler upside down.

 

You have to do some serious forcing of the case to get it to seat properly with the idler upside down as the "top hat" of the idler gear would be pushing up against the case when in neutral. If in Reverse to seal, the 5-R shift fork will be awkward, creating a hell of a time to get the change assembly to settle into place.

Maybe your reverse synchro was damaged somehow, you forgot to include the synchro spring on reverse's synchro, or you installed the 5-R synchro sleeve upside down.

 

But why would it work the first time i put it back together,.? cause the second time all i did was pop the diff out and put it back in and re check everything.... the Shafts stayed together with the shift forks and all still on them

 

I've done it on my own transmission before, and the cases went together fine. And it would barely engage into R and grind. But that was with a cable d, not sure if there is less clearance with b's or hydro transmissions.