So I bought a type-r intake manifold for my car. The guy I got it from said he had a bad idle after installing it. I decided to try it anyway.. Sure enough same issue. So I replaced the stock manifold. The idle is still not good. I hope someone has had this issue and can help me.

This is what I have done:

This is what happens. After 2 mins of starting the car it idles from 1000-2000 rpms constantly. Then if the car is moving it goes from 1000-3000 rpms. If the car is in gear the car wants to move forward like it is in cruise.. This is very annoying because each time I go into another gear the rpms go to 3000 and then goes down but it rises first and I can't get my issue to go away . No check engine light is on.


Reset ecu
Checked for vacuum leaks
Checked to make sure all connectors are connected correctly
Check for coolant in the iacv

If anyone has anything elsefor me to try please let me know.

Check out this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAT8Q...e_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAT8Q...e_gdata_player

 

Did you plug the extra port that the type-r manifold has the type-s doesn't

 

I have the stock manifold back on the car. I never found that extra* port.. Ting said it was on the intake manifold.. What I may do is take like 12 pictures of the type r manifold and then have him point out where it is.

Also a lot of people were saying vacuum leak, I feel this is not the case.. The stock one is on again.. I re-checked for leaks and sadly nothing has come up. I hope to figure this out soon. It is ruining my time with he car :/ miss my s2k, but this will be solved !

 

From what I am hearing it could be a bad TPS..

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAT8Q_CfPGc

 

Also today I am going to check tps voltage. Someone said there 2nd o2 sensor was not Hooked up and it Did this to their Acura anyone hears of this?

 

( News ) Update.

The problem has been fixed. It actually had nothing to do with a vacuum leak like almost everyone on ClubRSX told me.

Alright the problem ended up being the IACV. Bad? Yes, but no. Many people would just replace it etc. What happens to these from what I can see,is they are a electo-magnet that spins a shaft on a bearing to allow certain amounts of air through during idle, and for cold starts ( higher RPMS to get oil throughout the motor ) These parts not not lubricated, and when I took apart the IACV I couldn't move that shaft. I was not even sure you were suppose to, but it made sense that it should. I took PB blaster, soaked the shaft plus bearing and then turned it, and now it is free, completely free with zero resistance.

The screws for the IACV are a pain to get out, and I actually tightened it first to then get them lose, it works.. expect one bolt snapped.. and cracked a piece of the TB where it bolts. I just took that piece off and put a bolt + a nut there, I will eventually get another one, but for the time being no more surging idle. !!

The issue was a stuck (100%) IACV. It is nice to take the time sit down and figure stuff out. I knew I put the type-R manifold on correctly, I now can put it back on in a few weeks. The TB gasket is fine, the intake manifold gasket was fine. We can diagnostics, for the CEl and it said, rotary air control valve rpms out of range, it also tripped intake air leak, which it does not have, but was linked to that same circuit and uses that as well. I am sure it just sent a signal because it was not able to move and went into a limp mode. Hope this helps everyone.