... YES I SEARCHED

that out of the way, does anyone have comprehesive tips/pics for removal, cleaning and painting of brake calipers? i realy want to do it right, and dont trust paint company instructions read: "just slap on our friendly product and it'll last forever, it'll even make you faster just for $49.95" id also apreciate any brand recomendations.

TIA

 

Sand them down a little just to get all the dirt off. Use one of those metal/light fiber things to clean it real good. Then I used 2-3 coats of paint and 2 coats of clear

 

Use high temp. paint also....It last longer than regular spary paint

 

2 bolts for the caliper, 2 bolts for the caliper bracket, another 2 bolts for the emergency brake on the rears, 1 banjo bolt for the brake line.

Take 'em off, clean 'em up, sand 'em down. Tape off threaded bolt holes, the bleed nipple, rubber piston boot, etc. Then do as many coats as you feel like with as high a temperature paint as you can find. 1200 degree engine paint works the best - no need for the rip-off "caliper paints" - it's the same stuff. You can paint the backs of the brake pads if you want as well.

When everything's dry, put 'em all back together the same way you took it apart, and bleed your brakes. Get some replacement washers for the brakeline banjo bolts (2 for each, 8 total).

I don't have any pictures, but you really don't need them. You can figure out how it all works just by looking at it, it's not complicated. You'll want a Helm manual for torque specs & brake bleeding procedure.

Just be sure not to use the brake parts cleaner sprays on your brakes once you've painted them - the paint will run.


[Modified by Daemione, 11:51 AM 10/3/2002]

 

thanks guys, sounds like a weekend's project, and a good time to do a whole brake job. should i use "brake cleaner" before / after sanding or not at all? can anyone recomend a brand of high temp paint?

-thanks

ps of course ive got a helm, but wanted to ask about details etc that it doesnt have ie: the nesicary order of bolt tightening on the H22's alternator... (pic 1)

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=294710


[Modified by leptolude, 5:35 PM 10/3/2002]


[Modified by leptolude, 5:35 PM 10/3/2002]

 

Yeah, it took me a good 5-8 hours of putzing around with it the first time I did it. I didn't rebuild the calipers, but I replaced pads, shims, rotors, and a rear wheel bearing at the same time. I used brake parts cleaner liberally before I actually painted the calipers, and zapped down the rotors just before I reinstalled the calipers to get rid of any greasy fingerprints & such.

If you're replacing pads, do yourself a favor & buy one of those brake piston compression tools - the funny looking cube ones. They're like $8, but worth their weight in gold when it comes to rotating/compressing the rear caliper pistons.

For paint, I just used a silver 1200 degree engine paint that Autozone carried. I don't even remember what brand. 3 or 4 coats - looks great, no complaints. Been on about 6 months now. Just be careful of dripping brake fluid when you're reinstalling them - the paint will be pretty fresh, and brake fluid will eat through it pretty easily.

 

For paint, I just used a silver 1200 degree engine paint that Autozone carried. I don't even remember what brand. 3 or 4 coats - looks great, no complaints. Been on about 6 months now. Just be careful of dripping brake fluid when you're reinstalling them - the paint will be pretty fresh, and brake fluid will eat through it pretty easily.[/QUOTE]

hmm, this post has been EXTRA helpful for me also.. i was wondering daemione if you ABSOULTELY have to remove your brake calipers to do a sufficent job?? im not trying to do a half *** job on em at any account, but im not really wanting to bleed my braking system either. also i heard that you can buy "brake caliper paint kit" for about 30 bucks. think i should just stick with high temp paint??
thanx for your advice

 

Yeah, bleeding the brakes can be a pain, especially if you're by yourself.

But by not removing them, it makes every other aspect of the job twice as difficult. Cleaning, masking, spraying, etc. It is possible to get good results when painting them still installed, but much more difficult, in my opinion. Bleeding the brakes afterwards is a small price to pay for the simplicity of the rest of the job when they're removed from the car. And I took the opportunity to flush in some good Valvoline DOT4 fluid, so it worked out great.

But if you do decide to do it while installed, I'd recommend at least removing the brake pads. By swiveling the caliper out of the way & removing the pads, masking & covering up the brake rotor is going to be much simplified. And you'll avoid painting the pads onto the calipers.

Again, as for paint, I've never used one of the caliper kits. I've only used the engine paint, so my point of view isn't completely educated. But doing side-by-side comparisons to people who did fork out the cash for a kit, I can tell absolutely no difference. The engine paint is inexpensive (like $6 for can that was good for 4 coats on all 4 calipers - I think it's still about half full), dries rapidly (no longer tacky after about 15 minutes in the sun), works & looks great.

 

quote:
<U></U> [QUOTE]Yeah, bleeding the brakes can be a pain, especially if you're by yourself.

But by not removing them, it makes every other aspect of the job twice as difficult. Cleaning, masking, spraying, etc. It is possible to get good results when painting them still installed, but much more difficult, in my opinion. Bleeding the brakes afterwards is a small price to pay for the simplicity of the rest of the job when they're removed from the car. And I took the opportunity to flush in some good Valvoline DOT4 fluid, so it worked out great.
<U></U>

i agree with you 100% that its a small price to pay to bleed your braking system, but what about other components that are hooked up to the caliper?? hydrolic and abs system?? just trying to get as much info as possible so im doing it right..