i rebuilt my engine (b18b1) about 5k miles ago, hoping to up the compression and stop the oil burning
took it to a machine shop, got it rehoned
then went back to installing everything
i get everything back gether and it still burns oil like before
the compression is up to around 140 across the board from around 100-120 before
but its still burning oil at almost the exact same rate
could i have installed the rings wrong? i tried clocking them to honda's specification, but their diagram didn't show which side was intake and which was exhaust
could the machine shop have F'd up the rehone?
could there be another problem that causes it to burn oil??

 

did you rebuild the head more then likely it was the valve seals that needed replacing and not the rings

 

i didnt exactly rebuilt the head, but i did replace the valve seals, and the machine shop did a leak down of the head and said the valves and seats were good

 

guides? my buddy had a complete OEM rebuild but dident go the extra step for guides. but the leakdown test wont really help if thats the problem.

 

is there a way to tell if its the guides? by taking the head off?

 

If you remove the retaining clips holding in the valve/ retainer and move the valve in the guide housing you can tell if it has play (side to side). If the valve is loose in the guide I would look into replacments.

 

the guides didn't have any play that i could see, when i was installing the valve stem seals
is it possible to have no play and still leak?

 

New rings after the hone? The pistons will tell you if oil is getting past the rings or not.

 

if the machine shop did a valvejob the couldnt have done it properly if the valve guides where loose!

 

How did you break in the engine and on what oil?

 

i used regular castrol 10w-30 and to break it in, i drove around varying speed, then after about 100 miles, i tried driving around at WOT for a bit, then drove it around like i regularly do

they didn't do a valve job, they just hot tanked it and did a leak down and told me that it was within spec

ya, it has new rings, and how can i look at the piston and tell where its leaking from?
and my compression is 140, would that indicate its the rings if the head passed the leakdown test?

 

Hmn you have to use 30 weight non detergent oil to break it in. Really all that you are breaking in is your rings. If you bearing clearances and everything else is spot on. I broke in my engine by letting it idle for 10 minutes. Checked for leaks. And proceed to beet the **** out of it.(i am not telling that you should but thats what worked for me) 34k miles later on she rewards me with 13.9 passes in a dc2 shell with 171whp simple b series setup.

 

that must be one light dc2 shell or your one hell of a driver

 

225x lbs with out me in it and still have some more stuff to take out. i want to get it down to 2100 or if posible 2000 lol and i am getting there. need to work on my reaction times.

 

Odds are valveguides. The exhaust ones are typically out of spec on most b series motors that see higher rpms often.
The machine shop should have caught that doing the valve job, but they could have overlooked it, as some guys pay most attention to intake side and not exhaust.
My gsr needed exhaust guides when I built it at 105k. And I bought it from an old lady at 72k so it only started to get beat on when I got it for 30k miles.
If you have the luxury of time and can pull the head again, bring it to the machine shop, have them measure the guides. If they are out of spec, replace and re do the valve job.