the cspeed link no longer works and i need to know this asap. google is no help and it just pulls up the cspeed link. thanks.

 

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showc...rated-fun.html

This is my build thread over on D-series. As you may have guessed it's a D-series not a B-series but all the same concepts apply. All the claying info is on the first page, locking Vtec maybe differant if your building a B.

 

thank you ben. good stuff man.


does anyone know how to lock the vtec cams in place? also do rods stretch at 9k and by how much?

 

I think your thinking about how much the rod bolts stretch, not the actuall rod itself.
either way, not to sure

 

You have to swith out the rocker arm pins to lock in vtec as far a locking the cams in place if it is stock cams you can put a dowel through the oil rail holes and and it will be locked at tdc.

 

Rods stretch under RPM.

I know for our D-series with smaller rods we run quench gaps under .030"

 

i run .04 just to be sure on my p2v and p2h n about everything and yes, rods do stretch at rpm

 

ok so here's what i got. pull the head, caps, cams and remove the rocker shaft just enough to do the first set of rockers. i then remove the pins and install them backward. place clay in valve reliefs. install head on block with no head gasket so i give myself a little bit of breathing room after i install a head gasket. put car back on timing. rotate crank a few times. remove head and measure clay marks. is this right?


my question 1.should i wipe the top of the pistons with a bit of oil so my clay doesn't stick upon removal for inspection? 2.will i get an accurate reading with the ctr cams at 0,0 to start or do i need to check with the adjustable cam gear in each of its settings? don't know if that makes sense.

 

bump. about to do this tomorrow. should i clay it at +3/-3 to be safe? still not 100% sure on the process. thanks

 

your quite correct on this one...

only i degrease the top of the piston so that it sticks to the piston, actually oil up the valve so that it won't stick to it. this way after done you take a sharp knife and cut the clay where it's thinnest and you can check thickness with the rear of a caliper.

set your cams where you're going to put them, measure and then move them a few degrees closer to eachother to see if how much room you have to play and measure again.

 

That’s right,

Oil up the valves so they don’t stick to the clay, I oil the piston top as well. I like to degree my cam first, after it's set in the right location I clay, then advance 5 degrees and clay again, Retard 5 degrees and clay again. This way I know I can really adjust the cam to where I want it and not have to fear piston to valve contact.

 

Its easier if you don't have to remove the head each time. Clay for quench clearance and use check springs with indicators for piston to valve clearance.

You should also consider that the piston to deck clearance isn't the same for each cylinder. Measure it first and either use that cylinder to measure clearances or use the difference as an offset.

 

Agreed. Test springs and dial indicators are the way to go. You can even make this job easier by using compressed air and locking vtec the way the factory service manual describes.

 

good advice guys but i think im gonna do it caveman style and pull the head each time. i already have the motor on the stand. i went to our local craft store for clay but they were closed. i'll post pictures of my progress tomorrow. should my clay be dry? can i use baby powder on the clay so it doesnt stick. i read that alot of people use wd40. thanks

 

u can also use play dough....its da same thing nd its cheaper, just make sure u clean everything off when u done ull b good, i just did minez last week wit some play dough and it werks just as good....just sayin

 

Damn that guy erased the pics on the link lol