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This is an example of what im talking about. Any ideas?
http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/asse...-w-stab_4.jpeg

 

Im pretty sure xenocron uses that kit on his car. Check wit him to see if he likes it.

 

We have made some of are own rear radious rods, when I go by the shop after this afternoon I'll post some pics of our for the fodo.

 

friend of mine has the ktuned set on his ef4dr. he loves them he said. said there is absolutely no play in the wheel and he said there is no wheelhop to be heard of even at 450 hp.

 

had it on there since they came out with it...

love it, and you can certainly tell that it stiffens up the front end just a little bit more than just having the front bars on the car.

 

Good call Nayr. You can make me a set while youre making yours. :D

Ugh


Definitely dont want that when I get a 3 piece front end on.

 

I have pondered this idea for our kits however, I think it's too much stiffness for the up and down movement of the suspension. A good strong beefy Traction Bar like ESP should be good enough

The idea is kinda like how the EG/EK/DC are stock with the LCA.

 

do you guys think a cnc'd rear crossmember would help us out more we get alot of flex from that area thats not even noticable untill you pull the engine to see it all cracked up like peanut brittle

 

yes there would be. but the price for a cnc'd cross member lol. i could buy 50 front cross members. there are a couple of custom rear crossmembers people have made on here.

i dont think a new crossmember would be an end all. i think the rear radius bars are a great help

 

oh agreed totally

 

oh crap im gonna buy that for my da like today. thats sick!

 

found pictures of the custom rear crossmember. if the owner of the pics wants ill take them down.

 

now thats solid

 

I have read that thread and I really don't think the crossmember is the issue see how the lca doesn't tie into it at all I have absolutly no engine movement. Point of the matter is it just seems as if the eg/dc guys have it easier with their lower A arm they 60' better with the same base alignment and booost/timing settings. I'm just frustrated I have cut a 1.59 60' one time and can't seem to find it again lol.

 

do you really think that the LCA is moving that much with just a solid front bar?

i really cant see how it would be. unless the whole front of the car is lifting and pushing forward, which it may very well be.

 

all I know is these efs are a bitch we got it rough lol.... one thing is for sure the double hiem joints on yhe radius rods are junk I have mine setup using the bolts on the lcas.... I just came up with a good idea ill have it done today and post pics

 

agreed i even debated getting an eg i have never had great short track, and i have had people at the track tell me how bad the from wheels move while in the water box

i just had the whole front end off and nothing showed wear except for the rear cross member

 

Mine doesn't show signs of wear anywhere it just front halfs like **** best 8th I have is 6.680 and I set my alignment with the specs everyone else in egs use. What I think happens is when we launch these old turds the alignment changes drastically.

 

we were at an event last year and a friend of ours was down track and told us that on every gear change the front wheel move alot back and forth, bascily he tolds us that when i put the clutch in the wheel would touch the fender and when i let the clutch back out the wheel would touch the bumper. so after the race i looked to see if any thing was loose and there wasn't but what i did see was that the traction bar had rubbed a 1/4 of inch of paint off the mounting point of the traction bar and it rubbed it on both sides.

so these extra arms will help out alot.

 

ive never seen a 1.6??? anything on the 60 lol, but i had alot of engine rock due to the member its been replaced, and im no longer on the street inserts in my mounts so im hoping this helps me alot

 

Yea, Ive never seen better tha a 1.71. My front half sucks, but it moves up top. I keep expecting to be able to cut .4 from my time (with my trap), but cant get it to better than a 6.9 1/8th.

I know I have too much positive caster, but my wheel shouldnt be hitting the bumper when I shift. And I have a Full Race bar, so I know the traction bar doesnt pivot on me.

Heres a launch sequence:











And the shift



I would think , when the front lifts, the radius rods sit below level with the traction bar, which would shorten the distance, and bring the tire closer to the bumper. But when I shift, and the front drops, I would imagine the radius rod sits back closer to level with the ground/traction bar, and makes it the longest distance, pushing the tire back from the bumper. But as you can see in the pic, it doesnt.

Not sure what flexes. I have all new bushings, ball joints, Full Race trac bar, etc. But I think the rear bars would help a ton.

 

the problem is how the traction bar mounts to the EF cars, because the bolts go from bottom to top and the stress on the traction bar is from back and forth, so it allows the traction bar to slide back and forth under the bolts even if the bolts are tight.

 

I agree... I'm going to add some stuff so mine bolts to the stock location as well as the tow hook holes.... I'm almost done with my rear bars stay tuned lol.

 

interesting...