doing a bolt on only project for my dd itr motor
hey guys i am working on a 97 jdm itr motor thats been rebuilt about 20k ago its stock internals and i was building a list of parts that would be good power gains and but not be to radical for dd duties any advise if it is a good choice of parts, i know i am sticking to skunk2 just so everything is matched up but if there are any better suggestions i am open to hearing them
skunk2 pro series stage two cams w/ valvespring kit
skunk2 blackseries intake manifold, 70mm throttle body, and fuel rail
skunk2 cam gears
skunk2 megapower r exhaust
edelbrock jdm spec header
remapped ecu by phearables.net
injectors maybe? but i dont think i am ready for them yet i could be wrong though
skunk2 pro series stage two cams w/ valvespring kit
skunk2 blackseries intake manifold, 70mm throttle body, and fuel rail
skunk2 cam gears
skunk2 megapower r exhaust
edelbrock jdm spec header
remapped ecu by phearables.net
injectors maybe? but i dont think i am ready for them yet i could be wrong though
pro series cams are to big for daily driving use. you need upwards of 12.5:1 pistons for them. and mega power R exhaust is pretty loud and not the best sounding. 70mm TB isn't really needed. this build doesn't sound like you want to DD it at all. why would you run an edelbrock header when skunk2 makes one if you wanted to be all skunk2'd out? I'd do some more research on parts before making any purchases.
like above, skunk 2 pro 2 cams are to big, look at there regular stage 2 cams
no need for the intake manifold its not any better then a stock itr intake manifold
70mm tb is to big, dont need over 68mm
also like above exhaust is dumb loud, and sounds like ****
header is junk, look for a hytech rep header, 2.5 collector
ecu sounds good
no need for injectors yet or that fuel rail
no need for the intake manifold its not any better then a stock itr intake manifold
70mm tb is to big, dont need over 68mm
also like above exhaust is dumb loud, and sounds like ****
header is junk, look for a hytech rep header, 2.5 collector
ecu sounds good
no need for injectors yet or that fuel rail
i have a buddy club spec2, not even going to install it on my car, going with T1R instead. basically an intake, header, exhaust is all you need. just pick what you want I guess.
ok thanks guys, well what exhaust would have a good deep tone, the edelbrock was just a good cheap header i have ran them on v8s and had good luck but they no longer make them for the car so i crossed that one off the list. i guess i will go with the 68 mm then. as for the cams i was told i could daily drive the the pro series 2 cams it was when i stepped up to stage 3 i would have to do alot of work... as far as dd i drive it maybe 40 mins each way to work on open road so i figured it wouldnt be to bad but i guess if i am needing more compression i should just step down to something else.
Maybe you can become Skunk2 Certified, lol.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/general-discussion-debate-40/do-you-have-what-takes-skunk2-certified-2942054/
FWIW, I wouldn't put Skunk2 parts on my car if they paid me.
And since when are cams and camgears "bolt-on" only parts?
https://honda-tech.com/forums/general-discussion-debate-40/do-you-have-what-takes-skunk2-certified-2942054/
FWIW, I wouldn't put Skunk2 parts on my car if they paid me.
And since when are cams and camgears "bolt-on" only parts?
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what todd said junk2 doesnt have a great record
but anyway the pro2 cams, they can be dailed no problem they arent going to break anything or cause problems, they are just to big for a stock motor you wont make any power, you cant just stuff big *** cams in these motors and make power, pro2s need a built motor to make there intended power
but anyway the pro2 cams, they can be dailed no problem they arent going to break anything or cause problems, they are just to big for a stock motor you wont make any power, you cant just stuff big *** cams in these motors and make power, pro2s need a built motor to make there intended power
todd thats funny but its off track of what i am trying to find out i dont care that you wouldnt run their products. if you got a better opinion on other parts that would do just as good or better then i am all ears, i just want real help on this thanks
i want a good set of cams that will wake it up some more in the mid and upper rpms... i was thinking maybe just cams new exhaust and head work then retune it all for now
Toda
Toda Spec B's
Toda Valve Springs
o.e. retainers
stock IM
aem intake
smsp header/exhaust
and a real ems
Aem or Apexi power fc
However, for 100% reliability I would do a 4.9 final drive swap....that will make all the difference in the world.....
Toda Spec B's
Toda Valve Springs
o.e. retainers
stock IM
aem intake
smsp header/exhaust
and a real ems
Aem or Apexi power fc
However, for 100% reliability I would do a 4.9 final drive swap....that will make all the difference in the world.....
Truth be told, the OEM cams are pretty good. Any cam much more aggressive with more power potential, and you need to do more work to compliment them.
You seem to be talking about two different pathways.
And I'm also assuming this motor resides in something other than a Type R chassis? You might try the all-motor forum.
Likewise, you couldn't pay me to run Junk2 parts again. Recently had a damn screw on a throttle body butterfly back out and destroy cylinder #3 on a relatively new motor.
Really when you get right down to it, the only decent product Junk2 makes is camshafts. Their coilovers are junk, the last pair of cam gears I had from them lasted about 6 adjustments of cam timing before the bolts stripped the aluminum threads out and made them unuseable, their intake for a b-series is just a bastardized itr copy, their exhausts sound like a can of angry bees, you can get a better valvetrain from supertech for about half the cost, so whats left? Their composite fuel rail? I'm sure thats f*cked up in some way to.
Junk2


Really when you get right down to it, the only decent product Junk2 makes is camshafts. Their coilovers are junk, the last pair of cam gears I had from them lasted about 6 adjustments of cam timing before the bolts stripped the aluminum threads out and made them unuseable, their intake for a b-series is just a bastardized itr copy, their exhausts sound like a can of angry bees, you can get a better valvetrain from supertech for about half the cost, so whats left? Their composite fuel rail? I'm sure thats f*cked up in some way to.
Junk2



before you buy a single part...add up the cost
then look at a used jackson supercharger
if you're just wanting to breat 200whp a jackson is going to be cheaper than the all motor route. it also CAN but is not certain to be easier on the engine. big cams mean more rpms and an increase in rpm means a decrease in the life of the engine. keep it stock and add pressure, you're money ahead.
then look at a used jackson supercharger
if you're just wanting to breat 200whp a jackson is going to be cheaper than the all motor route. it also CAN but is not certain to be easier on the engine. big cams mean more rpms and an increase in rpm means a decrease in the life of the engine. keep it stock and add pressure, you're money ahead.
before you buy a single part...add up the cost
then look at a used jackson supercharger
if you're just wanting to breat 200whp a jackson is going to be cheaper than the all motor route. it also CAN but is not certain to be easier on the engine. big cams mean more rpms and an increase in rpm means a decrease in the life of the engine. keep it stock and add pressure, you're money ahead.
then look at a used jackson supercharger
if you're just wanting to breat 200whp a jackson is going to be cheaper than the all motor route. it also CAN but is not certain to be easier on the engine. big cams mean more rpms and an increase in rpm means a decrease in the life of the engine. keep it stock and add pressure, you're money ahead.
you can unlock crome pro for $150 and have a complete datalog capible system. add in $350 for dyno and tune time, 100 for the ecu and 100 for the 2a to 1 harness and you're in it $700 on top of the JR, even with new injectors and a fat koyo full size radiator you're talking $2000 for 230 easy whp.
you can spend that on high end cams, the vt and tune costs are identical.
jun 3's are like a grand and then another $3-400 in VT, same $2000 all said and tuned. you also have those destructive rpms with something like the jun cams since you'll rev to 9500. with the JRSC you can stay at 8500 and make 30-50whp more.
could do skunk pro1s, replica header and tune, all the same $2000.
$4$ you just aren't beating a jsrc in that 200-240whp range.
you could get really nasty and build a little gt28 turbo car but that, done right with all new parts will set a guy back about 4500. lot, lot more cash for the extra hp
you can spend that on high end cams, the vt and tune costs are identical.
jun 3's are like a grand and then another $3-400 in VT, same $2000 all said and tuned. you also have those destructive rpms with something like the jun cams since you'll rev to 9500. with the JRSC you can stay at 8500 and make 30-50whp more.
could do skunk pro1s, replica header and tune, all the same $2000.
$4$ you just aren't beating a jsrc in that 200-240whp range.
you could get really nasty and build a little gt28 turbo car but that, done right with all new parts will set a guy back about 4500. lot, lot more cash for the extra hp
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Fat Chick Magnet
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Aug 25, 2006 02:07 PM




. 68 tb is good enough deff hytech rep. good luck

