Hi everyone!
I have a 1995 Civic LX with 1.5 non-vtec. I'm very familiar with Hondas and own 4 Honda cars and 4 Honda motorcycles.
My car has recently begun to not start this summer. It has been hot in our city and the problem reminded me very much of another time when my 92 had cracked solder joints on the main relay. Anyway, the car has not started 3 different times now in the past 30 days and each time it had been in full sun/90+ heat. When I try to start it, I move the key to the "on" position and immediately I notice there are no lights coming on in the dash panel (oil,srs,battery,check-engine,& brake), then I move the key to the "start" position and it momentarily hits but dies as you release the key back to the "on" position. However, if you hold the key in the "start" position the motor will run until you release the key (although if the starter is still turning this has to be bad)! After doing that a few times or just waiting for some extended time, the car will start and run normally.

I did switch the main relay with a known-good one and it made no difference. I realize I could be mistaken, but it seems very much like a cracked solder joint that gets hot in the sun and then has too much resistance to operate the main relay. However, this is not the problem.

thanks to all in advance!

-William

 

Bad ignition switch. There's a diagram in the FAQs sticky that describes how to test it.

 

Well, I guess it wouldn't make sense to test it unless it was NOT starting right? Otherwise, it well test out good? Are there "points" in the ignition switch that would be affected by heat?

 

While you are correct that testing may miss an intermittent problem, it's still worth doing because it's easy and may immediately confirm the problem. By the way, I think you can buy just the electrical part of the ignition switch on eBay.

 

http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

Here's a helpful link.

Regarding my problem, I'm looking at changing the harness which contains the white electrical switch that connects to the key cylinder.

Do you guys agree?

 

Did you read this?

 

I guess the posts crossed Ron. I did read it and that's the route I'll take after I remove and inspect it.

Thanks for your efforts to reply brother.

-william

 

A Tale Of Two Civics

My 95 Civic is my son's daily driver and my goal was to get him going and not have to worry about him getting stranded.
So, I took the ignition switch out of my 92 Civic and installed it in the 95. He has been good to go and no problems.

I then inspected his ignition switch and noticed that the contacts had been arcing and were burned in one spot. I then ordered another ignition switch for myself. In the meantime I had planned on running with the 95's old switch after I cleaned the contacts. However, when I was installing it I had forgotten to remove the negative terminal on the battery (big No-No). When I was threading the switch through the steering area, I saw a spark. It blew the 50A IG fuse. I replaced the fuse and have tested the ignition switch and main relay in the 95 and they both test good. But, even after replacing that fuse, the 92 it is not getting power.

When I put the key in the 92, there is no alarm buzz and when I turn it, the dash lights do not light up...and of course the starter doesn't turn over either. I do have headlights, hazards and the interior light works. But no wipers, turn signals.

I used a multimeter and tested all the fuses and found no more bad ones. I'm glad I have the two cars so that I can test parts, but at this point I'm stuck. I do know that even with the white round part of the ignition switch removed from the key cylinder that the key still operates at least the door alarm so, it is certainly relevant.

Help please.

-William

 

Did the 50A fuse blow again after it was installed? Test that first. Make sure there's battery voltage on both sides of fuse 39.

If not, you may have fried the Wht/Blk wire running between 50A hood fuse 39 and the ignition switch. Unplug the battery and test the wire for continuity.

 

The 50A fuse did not blow again. Where is the location of the wht/blk wire? Do I need to remove the fuse box and look underneath? Where is the other end of that wire inside the car?

Thanks for the Help Ron,

-william

 

Make sure fuse 39 has battery voltage to body ground on both sides (red dots).



One of the two red dots runs from fuse 39 ---> Wht/Blk wire ---> socket where ignition switch 7P connector plugs into dash fuse box ---> ignition switch 7P connector ---> Wht wire ---> ignition switch. If both sides of fuse 39 have voltage, then test whether the Wht/Blk wire terminal in the 7P connector socket has battery voltage to body ground.

 

Ron, that is some great detailed information you laid out for me.

In the course of following Ron's advice, I discovered that after I blew fuse #39 I put the new one in slot #38 which is blank in my car. I made a mistake and Ron helped me find it out quicker than I would have on my own.

All is well, I'm happy to say...Now, I'm going to install outer tie rods on a Civic for my friend so that I too, can help someone!

thanks Ron

-william

 

 

In conclusion, this was in fact a "Heat Related" intermittent problem. After the contacts on the ignition switch had begun to arc while in the 'on' position a problem was created that was exacerbated by outside temp (possibly a cracked solder joint). While it might work to clean the contacts and desolder/resolder the joint, I think the fix lies in replacing the switch.

 

Glad you got it fixed/figured out.I've had to do this on a Few Eg's/ef's.I'd grab one from the junkyard depending what the dealer wants for them?Matt