Fixed main relay (resoldered)... noticed ridicolous improvement on several fronts.
Guys,
Like the title states, last Tuesday I finally got around to resoldering the Main Relay because it had come to the point I'd have to take it with me inside the office so it wouldn't warm up while the car was parked outside (too warm = car no start).
Is it just in my head or is it possible that the car is *much* smoother? I feel a tangible difference in the way the car runs, engine is smoother, even the AC seems to be blowing stronger. Is this even possible?
I usually am not very sensitive to changes in my car - I barely felt a difference when I installed my RMF replica header - but this one was a tangible difference.
Please let me know your thoughts.
Thanks!
Like the title states, last Tuesday I finally got around to resoldering the Main Relay because it had come to the point I'd have to take it with me inside the office so it wouldn't warm up while the car was parked outside (too warm = car no start).
Is it just in my head or is it possible that the car is *much* smoother? I feel a tangible difference in the way the car runs, engine is smoother, even the AC seems to be blowing stronger. Is this even possible?
I usually am not very sensitive to changes in my car - I barely felt a difference when I installed my RMF replica header - but this one was a tangible difference.
Please let me know your thoughts.
Thanks!
92-95 Civic main relays are a well known problem. Given that the main relay controls voltage to the ECU, fuel pump, fuel injectors, IACV, and O2 sensor, I am not surprised by your testimonial.
If you own a 92-95 Civic/Del Sol with the original main relay, resoldering it is something that you just should do.
If you own a 92-95 Civic/Del Sol with the original main relay, resoldering it is something that you just should do.
92-95 Civic main relays are a well known problem. Given that the main relay controls voltage to the ECU, fuel pump, fuel injectors, IACV, and O2 sensor, I am not surprised by your testimonial.
If you own a 92-95 Civic/Del Sol with the original main relay, resoldering it is something that you just should do.
If you own a 92-95 Civic/Del Sol with the original main relay, resoldering it is something that you just should do.
Perhaps not as bad as 92-95s, but I am pretty certain it applies to you as well. As far as I understand, the Main Relay issue was not completely addressed until Honda made some changes on 2005+ models. You probably have the same Main Relay we have on 92-95s, but maybe you guys don't have the same failure rate because it's mounted differently. Just speculating here. I've read that the way the Main Relay is mounted in 92-95s makes it even more vulnerable to vibration which causes solder cracks.
Awesome info on this page. Here too.
Indeed. Glad I finally got around to doing it even though I had found workarounds to ensure the car started all the time. The car is a whole different animal now.
Perhaps not as bad as 92-95s, but I am pretty certain it applies to you as well. As far as I understand, the Main Relay issue was not completely addressed until Honda made some changes on 2005+ models. You probably have the same Main Relay we have on 92-95s, but maybe you guys don't have the same failure rate because it's mounted differently. Just speculating here. I've read that the way the Main Relay is mounted in 92-95s makes it even more vulnerable to vibration which causes solder cracks.
Awesome info on this page. Here too.
Perhaps not as bad as 92-95s, but I am pretty certain it applies to you as well. As far as I understand, the Main Relay issue was not completely addressed until Honda made some changes on 2005+ models. You probably have the same Main Relay we have on 92-95s, but maybe you guys don't have the same failure rate because it's mounted differently. Just speculating here. I've read that the way the Main Relay is mounted in 92-95s makes it even more vulnerable to vibration which causes solder cracks.
Awesome info on this page. Here too.
Yeah, what a difference it makes doesnt it? My 88 civic had the same issue. Resoldered mine and it starts every time.
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I pasted a couple of links.
Those should be all you need, besides the soldering iron, solder removing tool (suction pump or pen/spring style, copper braid etc) and new solder.
I don't know if you're being sarcastic or not, but besides the obvious starting issue being fixed, I noticed other improvements I was not expecting.
Those should be all you need, besides the soldering iron, solder removing tool (suction pump or pen/spring style, copper braid etc) and new solder.
I don't know if you're being sarcastic or not, but besides the obvious starting issue being fixed, I noticed other improvements I was not expecting.
[QUOTE=DSMAddicted;45732628]I pasted a couple of links.
Those should be all you need, besides the soldering iron, solder removing tool (suction pump or pen/spring style, copper braid etc) and new solder.
Its better if you remove the old solder but u dont have to. just heat up the old stuff and add a little more to it. i always use really thin solder because its easier to control how much you are adding
Those should be all you need, besides the soldering iron, solder removing tool (suction pump or pen/spring style, copper braid etc) and new solder.
Its better if you remove the old solder but u dont have to. just heat up the old stuff and add a little more to it. i always use really thin solder because its easier to control how much you are adding
Yeah, my sarcasm-meter was working intermittently... like if it had cracked solder. <hides>
True, but I went for brand new solders regardless, just in case.
True, but I went for brand new solders regardless, just in case.
And i think their is a write up somewhere on how to re-solder your sarcasm-meter
It may be on the fritz 
Yeah, i had to re-read what i wrote in case it came off a bit douchy :0
Maybe he just sensed that I'm a sarcastic person even when I'm not being sarcastic. Truth is, I am very

And i think their is a write up somewhere on how to re-solder your sarcasm-meter
It may be on the fritz
It may be on the fritz
:thumbsup:
Perhaps not as bad as 92-95s, but I am pretty certain it applies to you as well. As far as I understand, the Main Relay issue was not completely addressed until Honda made some changes on 2005+ models. You probably have the same Main Relay we have on 92-95s, but maybe you guys don't have the same failure rate because it's mounted differently. Just speculating here. I've read that the way the Main Relay is mounted in 92-95s makes it even more vulnerable to vibration which causes solder cracks.
I'm trying to decide whether to try to re-solder it or just buy a new relay. I don't own a soldering iron and have never used one. CarQuest offers me an aftermarket OEA for $58 or 60, something like that.
Mine starts fine usually, but if it's just parked for a few minutes, sometimes it doesn't click and prime in the "ON" position. Just handling and jiggling the main relay usually gets it to work. And once it's running, I haven't had problems.
Hmm.. my car has never not started. Many times it takes a few cranks (holding the key turn) to start but would that be a main relay problem? I'm pretty sure mine is original from 92 so I am surprised if this is not a problem on my car. I am wishing it was though, because I would like to enjoy those other additional improvements you noticed, OP.
maybe the 96-00 have less of an issue with the main relay, possibly from mounting location, age, improved wiring, I don't know. However, when at the junkyard I pulled some from 5th gens and 6th and aside from the couple aftermarket ones, they were all the same rectangular gray box. My 1993 hatch had a slightly different designed relay and it was also OEM. So, while there was a couple designs on the 5th gen at least, there was a main relay used on both body styles.
The resoldering fix does help a lot. keeping it cool would also help. I have mine relocated lower to be able to get to it easier (had a wiring Gremlin a while back, didn't bolt resoldered relay back in). Maybe punching a couple holes and sticking a heat sink or two on somehow could help, though it could just make the vibration issue worse. Possibly an improved mount that suspended the relay or damped vibration with a soft pad like a piece of mouse pad?
The resoldering fix does help a lot. keeping it cool would also help. I have mine relocated lower to be able to get to it easier (had a wiring Gremlin a while back, didn't bolt resoldered relay back in). Maybe punching a couple holes and sticking a heat sink or two on somehow could help, though it could just make the vibration issue worse. Possibly an improved mount that suspended the relay or damped vibration with a soft pad like a piece of mouse pad?
Any idea if this could be why my car starts up very weakly when its cold in the morning, or after its been running for a while and is warm? There has never been a time where it simply does not start but I have weak startups very often.
Last edited by Dekorum; Nov 11, 2011 at 02:09 PM.
This is not hard to do. A 40 watt soldering iron, de-solder braid and silver solder cost less than $30 at Radio Shack.
yeah... i need to do mine.... though i did find a temp fix... while cranking a firm kick to the fuse pannel area makes it start right up... i know its not right... but it makes be feel better
It's a good thing I stumbled upon this thread, currently I asked on another site, I can feel when the radiator fan kicks in, it slightly drops my rpms just like when u feel the AC clutch kicks in. I have a 93 del sol, so by having this done it should solve this problem?
It's a good thing I stumbled upon this thread, currently I asked on another site, I can feel when the radiator fan kicks in, it slightly drops my rpms just like when u feel the AC clutch kicks in. I have a 93 del sol, so by having this done it should solve this problem?
It makes sence hippy! I'm asking that I feel my rpm's drop down whenever the radiator fan kicks on. I shouldn't feel the fan when it kicks in, I was told to check all my grounds, I did that and made sure all were metal to metal contact, not to mention I upgraded all the grounds with 0 guage wiring. Since the original thread maker found great success with soldering his main I would like to know if I'll benefit if I decided to do the same.
It makes sence hippy! I'm asking that I feel my rpm's drop down whenever the radiator fan kicks on. I shouldn't feel the fan when it kicks in, I was told to check all my grounds, I did that and made sure all were metal to metal contact, not to mention I upgraded all the grounds with 0 guage wiring. Since the original thread maker found great success with soldering his main I would like to know if I'll benefit if I decided to do the same.





