97 Accord EX stutter around 1800 rpm
I have a manual Accord with only a SRI. Ever since I got it it has been having issues with the RPMs around 1800, from around 1650 to about 2000 it stutters (almost like a misfire) and doesn't want to accelerate properly. The vibration from the engine is felt different it it feels like I am releasing the gas pedal and pressing it again very quickly. After 2000 rpm the car runs absolutely fine. I have no stored or current codes in the ecu. This is with brand new NGK spark plugs. Any ideas what I can try to mess with to try to get the issue to go away?
did you also clean the egr valve itself and make sure it is functioning properly-could be the solenoid?is there a rough idle when at a red light? where did you get your sri
No, I have not touched the valve itself. Is there a way to check it, maybe unplug it and check something? Idle is rough at time, it shakes (not too violent though)and then comes back to being OK. I got my SRI at an AEM blowout sale a few years ago.
test the whole egr system
first with the engine fully warmed up remove the vacuum hose from the egr valve. and place your finger over the hose end. take your finger off put it back on. your looking to see if there is vacuum coming through the hose at idle. if there is vacuum then you have a bad egr solenoid-easily attainable at a junkyard, bad wires from egr solenoid to the ecu(check the electrical connectors for lose wires or looseness), or a bad ecu. i found out my ecu was causing vacuum on my accord by removing the ecu and removing the plates. found a burnt spot on the ecu.
before you replace the valve you can try to clean it with brake cleaner. remove the valve and sit it upside down. push the diaphram open to get access to the inside. fill both sides with brake cleaner and allow it sit sit for a little bit. i also used throttle body cleaner with the straw attachment to blast inside the part that opens. use a new gasket when reinstalling the valve
first with the engine fully warmed up remove the vacuum hose from the egr valve. and place your finger over the hose end. take your finger off put it back on. your looking to see if there is vacuum coming through the hose at idle. if there is vacuum then you have a bad egr solenoid-easily attainable at a junkyard, bad wires from egr solenoid to the ecu(check the electrical connectors for lose wires or looseness), or a bad ecu. i found out my ecu was causing vacuum on my accord by removing the ecu and removing the plates. found a burnt spot on the ecu.
before you replace the valve you can try to clean it with brake cleaner. remove the valve and sit it upside down. push the diaphram open to get access to the inside. fill both sides with brake cleaner and allow it sit sit for a little bit. i also used throttle body cleaner with the straw attachment to blast inside the part that opens. use a new gasket when reinstalling the valve
I checked and didn't feel much (if any) vacuum at idle. If I rev the engine then I do feel the vacuum. Wires seem fine but will check. I opened the ECU about a month ago (problem was still present) and it looked fine inside.
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Just buy a new egr valve gasket and just take the valve off. Then push the diaphragm to open the valve you will see all kinds of crud in the area that opens up. Don't need to spray the diaphragm obviously. Just spray in the valve itself. Get it all nice and good until it's cleaned up.
Don't be afraid to spray into the port itself in the intake manifold.
Don't be afraid to spray into the port itself in the intake manifold.
Last edited by holmesnmanny; Jul 29, 2011 at 01:01 PM.
have you tried pulling the diaphram up at idle? this would manually open the egr valve and would cause a very rough idle like its gonna die. if when pulling the diaphram up at idle nothing happens your egr ports are clogged or the passage to the egr ports is clogged
i have had some sri's cause a lag in the low range at lighter throttle and is fixed by giving it more gas. if this is your case you either need a heavier foot or get a cai
I am going to replace the EGR since I got a new, used one. It is known to work. I took it completely off and the car started to rev itself to 3000 and then back to around 1200. Any ideas why that is happening?
ya its a vacuum leak. you probably have a hose somewhere that is not plugged in. check for any unplugged hoses from the sri swap.
also check for any nipples on the intake manifold that need to be capped.
if all this checks out could be a leaking gasket: egr gasket, throttle body gasket, etc
a vacuum leak is when there is a way for air to get into the intake manifold via a hole, bad gasket, or unplugged bad hose after the throttle body.
as for the egr problem it sounds like it has to either be the ports or a dirty/clogged egr valve
also check for any nipples on the intake manifold that need to be capped.
if all this checks out could be a leaking gasket: egr gasket, throttle body gasket, etc
a vacuum leak is when there is a way for air to get into the intake manifold via a hole, bad gasket, or unplugged bad hose after the throttle body.
as for the egr problem it sounds like it has to either be the ports or a dirty/clogged egr valve
Thanks a lot to everybody that helped me out! Vacuum leak was when I removed the EGR valve and started the car without plugging the hose. I just put a F23 EGR that I had from another intake manifold, cleaning it thoroughly before I put it in and the car runs amazing now. Has no vibration at idle and picks up a lot quicker than before! Hesitation in the lower RPM is no longer present.
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