no spark problem on 94 civic.
Working on my g/f 94 Civic EX (all stock). I checked the normal things I found in the FAQ's, and when doing the igniter unit input test (http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/u...cture_3699.jpg) the white and blue wire does not have voltage. So what do i look for now, where is the power suppose to be comming from? Does this mean the igniter is bad, or is there a fuse or relay that I can check. I refuse to throw away money and toss part after part on this car so dont tell me to buy a new dizzy, I want to diagnose the problem first. Also I've checked the coil, and it's fine. The coil has power from the black and yellow wire.
Just to clarify I'm not an idiot. The car DOES NOT have spark. As I said I tested the coil and it is good. it has power and the resistance is correct. I am a honda tech, but I've never run into this problem before. Usually it's a bad coil and I don't have to diagnose past that. I was hoping to figure it out tonight so I could order the part at work tomorrow, but if not I'm just going to bring the shop manual home.
The car has had this specific problem before and due to time issues after i tested the coil and powers to the dizzy and coil I just assumed the igniter or ICM or whatever anyone calls it was bad. So i went ahead and replaced the dizzy with one from a wrecked parts car we had laying around. It ran fine for a while, then we replaced the cap, rotor, and wires when one of the wire went bad. It ran fine after that for a few months, then the rear brakes had problems and the car sat for a few months because shes been driving her summer car. I want to know what im looking for in the ICM (resistance, voltage, ect) so I can figure out why it went bad again. Chances are this ones bad from running 120k then sitting for 2 years, but id like to check everything now so I don't have to do more work and spend more money later.
The car has had this specific problem before and due to time issues after i tested the coil and powers to the dizzy and coil I just assumed the igniter or ICM or whatever anyone calls it was bad. So i went ahead and replaced the dizzy with one from a wrecked parts car we had laying around. It ran fine for a while, then we replaced the cap, rotor, and wires when one of the wire went bad. It ran fine after that for a few months, then the rear brakes had problems and the car sat for a few months because shes been driving her summer car. I want to know what im looking for in the ICM (resistance, voltage, ect) so I can figure out why it went bad again. Chances are this ones bad from running 120k then sitting for 2 years, but id like to check everything now so I don't have to do more work and spend more money later.
Well just to clarify, i'm a honda tech also, and from looking at the ETM. The igniter is basically a switch in between the ecm and the coil. So if the ecm is sending an ignition output signal to the igniter, and if the igniter is bad, it won't send power to the distributor.
Ok, I know the coil on the + side isnt getting voltage from the igniter. So which wire on the igniter is from the ecm, and should i see battery voltage there when the key is on and the engine is off?
Well you need to check it at the distributor connector. Its a yellow/green wire. Turn the key on and check for voltage there. If you're getting voltage there, then more likely its the igniter.
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Diyracing2
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Jan 3, 2007 09:33 PM




