I know Honda recommends 5w-30 what are you guys using?

Anyone using 10w-30 any problems esp in the colder climates?

I am curious because I am losing oil and wanted to see if I used 10w-30 might help a bit?

 

C'mon with these useless threads/polls already! If you're losing oil changing the weight isn't going to help.

 

Using a heavier oil than recommended could actually make things much worse.
It can cause hot spots in the motor because the oil doesn't flow quickly enough, not to mention wearing out your oil pump faster and causing more resistance to the moving engine parts, resulting in less gas mileage and horsepower.

If you're losing oil, it's either leaking or burning (or possibly both if it's dripping onto the hot exhaust)
^^;

Find that leak and get'er fixed!
Your Honda will thank you
^^

 

5w30, year round. Winter/summer, doesn't matter.

Some will switch back and forth, but I don't see the point.

If your burning oil don't think you can just throw a thicker weight in. It doesn't work like that. These engines and all engine were designed to work with a cetain weight oil.
You may end up creating more issues.


My friend used to put 20w-40 in his DA.

just put what Honda reccomends in it. Unless you live in a very hot, or very cold climate.

 

I use 5w-30 although I did use 0w-30 M1 last winter.

 

i know mine says to use 5w30 in summer and 10w in winter.

i use 5w30 in my d16
and i believe 10w in the B16.

haha mcvtec i'll teach that lil asian kid to drive. just not in my car.

 

oil weight is one of those things specific to one motor and its condition. Typically/recommended is 5w30. but different regional climates require different thicknesses. if you got a broke down old motor its usually better to go a little thicker hence. 10w30 or so. but mostly only matters in climate once again and how healthy your motor is. i run 20w50 or 15w40 on my turbo motor

 

5w-30 per service manual

 

i use 5w30

 

I use 5w50 durring the summer and 5w30 durring the winter... If your burning mass amounts of oil yes you can change the weight and it will slow down alittle its a bandaid not a fix

 

Honda's oil cap on the valve cover doesn't say "5w30 unless you live in ______"

It just says "5w30"

 

I use heavy duty diesel oil just because I don't like to follow what Honda says. Thicker is better, right? You know, I want to be like everyone else.


/sarcasm. 5w-30

 

I mostly use 5w30 mobil 1 which seems to burn off in my 97 but then my pan started leaking worse so I'd say that's prob. the real reason. It must only leak when driving because I never see any oil whatsoever under the car but the pan is wet on the bottom and up the sides. Right now I have mobil1 10w30 high mileage and I have 190k miles, I just did the change maybe 2 weeks ago so hasn't been long enough to tell.

In my 99 I actually have castrol syntec 5w30 fully synthetic and I've put 2k miles or so and it hasn't gone through any oil but then I had all the engine seals & gaskets replaced when I did the timing belt with the exception of the rear main.

I tried castrol syntec 5w40 once in the 97 to run something a little thicker but didn't want something in there that was too thick but it still went through the stuff. Seems like I'm now having to add 2 qts in between oil changes, it used to be 1 qt but never was a problem because I would be changing it out anyways and refilling it.

 

10w-40. Turbo d16y8

 

94 Civic w/ JDM B18C-R Mobil1 0w30
04 Pilot 100k miles Mobil1 0w20
89 CRX 218k miles Mobil1 5w30 High Mileage
05 TL Sport Mobil1 64k miles 0w30

 

im running 10w30 on a turbo b18c1. bottom end is forged with the oil squirters eliminated

 

I just had this conversation with my mechanic at the shop. Cuz he looked at me all funny when he saw me putting some 5w-30 on my b18b1..LoL. He asked me why...and i said thats whats recommended and then i had to hear the whole MILEAGE factor on oils and why i would need to go thicker for higher mileaged cars etc...etc. I have always wondered if its true or not. We need to clarify this crap once and for all.

 

That's all heresay. Just use 5w30.

 

I have 210k on the orginal y7, I still run the same 5w30 oil i have always ran.

Noithing wrong with it.

I'll never run the highmilage ****.

 

10w30 is not REALLY thicker than 5w30 you know. Both are SAE grade-30 oils once up to operating temp. The difference comes when the oil is at ambient temperature (start-up). The lower the W number, the thinner the oil will be. At start-up, even a 0w oil is still too thick to properly lubricate which is why you should drive very easy until the oil is up to temp. The important part to understand is that a 0w oil will start lubricating sooner than a 5w or 10w no matter the ambient temp because it starts out thinner than the others.

As for switching to a thicker oil, you wouldn't know if you need to switch to a thicker SAE grade unless you hooked up the oil pressure & temp gauges and did some checking. According to Bobstheoilguy.com, as long as you have at least 10psi for every 1000rpm, you are good to go.

 

but running too thin an oil at start up won't properly create a layer between the components. that's why a 5w is recommended over a 0w.

 

Id figured that out myself. But he gave the lecture on how 5w-30 is for new cars with low mileage and that as the motor starts to waste itself out(if that makes sense) higher mileage the thinner oil burns itself quicker and all and thats why we need thicker one. Because then the internal components aint getting enough oil and its burning off through the tight spots instead of lubricating.

I was like

 

I just switched over to 10w30 on my 90k with all my hondas once i reach around 100k i switch to 10w30 never gave me problems its just a thicker oil because the 5w30 is for newer lower mil than the 10w30 but the 5w30 is recommended on the first 100k for the engine or u will **** it up and also because of the temp of where u live 5w30 is for areas with really cold and high temp climents compared to the 10w30 wich isnt like if its freezing temptures

but for all my other hondas never had any problems and they all ran for another 200k

 

Say for instance you start with 10w 30 and you top off with say 5w 30 will mixing cause issues?

 

That is not true. At startup you want the oil to build pressure, not leave a film behind. A thinner oil will pump faster at startup, getting to the vital engine parts sooner than a thicker one.

I can see that this thread is going to be just as fail as every other oil thread out there.

No, but there is really no good reason to do this. It's always best to stick a single brand/grade of oil to get the most benefits from the specific additives within the oil. Switching back & forth can cause different additives to compete with eachother.