Hello gentlemen,

I have a 93 hatch dx with what many have called a "Bastardized" stock b20 swap, and im having trouble with it once again. to read about the condition of the car when i bought it read below.


THE MAIN PROBLEM: The car has an abnormally loud intake noise, and barely makes power at higher rpm's and at heavy throttle. under full throttle the car makes a very loud intake noise and a quiet exhaust tone. the car ran fine when i bought it.

THE CAR: Bought it for 2800 with 94,000 on the odo. soon realized the odo was broke and it stayed at 94,000. they welded the b20 header to the eg system, so it ended up breaking at the flex point and i was stuck running a straight header for a week. so i got a new header and 2" system. Grinds into 2nd and 3rd. when i bought it it was missing- 2 bolts that hold down the fuel rail, 1 motor mount bolt. the front rubber motor and tranny mount. The d series front tranny rubber mount was just sitting there rattling against the tranny. cut springs with blown shocks, car has a manual tranny, it has an auto ecu...the actual cel was taken out. the cel reading plug was cut off...but i still have a way to read the codes, the screw came out of the rotor in the dizzy cap, so it tor that whole thing up, it was connected to a map sensor on the firewall........im talkin straight ****** mobile.


WHAT I HAVE DONE: Within the past few months i have gotten
-oil change
-ngk plugs
-ngk blue plug wires
-new dc header
-magniflow cat muffler and 2 in piping
-new struts and springs
- new dizzy cap and rotor
-new fuel filter
-new map sensor
-new o2 sensor
- I have tried putting a new dizzy in...it helped a little, but did not fix the problem.
- new short air intake
-cleaned air filter
-Gsr brake conversion


This car leaks and burns no oil. motor runs cool, but the car is just really lacking power. the timing is defiantly far off, so i plan on getting that fixed soon, but i put a lot of money into these parts, and it helps it runa little better, it just isnt fixing the problem. CAR READS NO CODES


Please help guys i have to drive this car across the country in 2 weeks!!!!

 

Camshaft timing and base ignition timing have to be exact or it will cause a serious loss in power. I think you also need to run the non auto ecu. With the auto ecu in "fault mode/limp mode", it more than likely is running its "safety maps" and your not getting your full ignition advance...

 

Did you set the base timing when you swapped in the new distributor?

 

Id say timing as well, Maybe off a tooth or two. Just had to retime a single cam thats was doing the exact same thing

 

okay ill get the cam and the base timing dialed in and we'll see what happens

 

Dont forget to jump the service connector when you set ignition timing.

 

here are pics of the plugs, engine bay, and manifold/ fuel rail.....dont ask me why 2 of the injectors are upside down

 

pics don't work bro...

 

pics don't work and you might as well fix the timing before going any further.

 

ever solved?

 

Youre looking for answers in a 10 year old thread buddy. The OP has 17 posts. You think theyre still here on the forum?

If you had simply clicked their user name you would have seen this:
Last Activity: 07-21-2011 10:20 AM

 

OH thats right i forgot you could do that. Sort of new to this forum. Dang, he's probably not, figure'd it might be worth a check maybe if he saw a response in his email and said OH HAHA 10 YEARS AGO or something. Idk. Thanks for the quick reply tho!