hi guys im having trouble with my swap i have a obd2 96 h22a1 im swaping in my 91 accord,i cant find the info that i need, like do i chnage out fuel rail,injectors,distributor ect..i only see stuff for 92-95 h22 97and up any help would be apreciated this is also my first swap.my other question is on my f22 distributor it only has 4 spots for the spark plug wires,but my h22 has 5 there is a short one

 

Alot of that depends on what ecu you will be swapping in with your new engine.
If your new ecu is obd2 you will need to change the distributor and possibly injectors (not sure) but not the fuel rail.
You should try and avoid going the obd2 route if possible.
Tuning is harder and being that your car is a 91 model you will be perfectly legal on obd1.

 

i been reading that i should get a obd1 h22a1 ecu i have the obd2, i do want to convert it to obd1.for that i would have to change dizzy,injectors i think that is all

 

The '96 year is OBDII so you will need to change the oil pump to a 93-95 oil pump. Then buy a td60u internal distributor. You will need to move your egr valve over to the prelude manifold.

Then match up the vacuum hoses to your car you can find both your vacuum diagram and the vacuum diagram for the prelude engine. Lastly you will need to wire in vtec. There are guys on ebay that put together the wires for you. You can buy a kit and then get a OBDI p13 ecu(93-95) and run the wires from them to the ecu through the firewall. There are four wires you will need to wire in. Just do some searching. There is lots of info.

You can also do a search and buy the Ultimate Swap Guide.

 

i noticed this is like a year old but do u still have the stock 96 p13 ecu? i need one and there like needles ina haystack

 

they are selling some ecus p13 Here in el paso tx, look in craigslist, El P&o tx, one is like 60$ and the other one is 90$

 

el paso*

 

i have two obd1 P13's for sale... Leave the oil pump alone and just change the distributor. You dont need to change the injectors. Simply Eliminate the injector resistor box. It's actually really simple... Untill you try to pass emissions.

 

the 96 h22 still uses the resistor box...
the ONLY difference between the 95 96 h22a1 is the distributor and oil pump. those are insignificant.
you can get the td60u internal coil distributor and plug it right in to your existing harness for the easiest job.
if you do not want to spend the money, you will need to wire up an external coil and wire up the sensor on the oil pump.

my recommendation is that if you find the swap process confusing that you just buy the td60u and use an obd1 p13.

if you have an obd2 p13 offer it for sale starting at $250 and you will eventually sell it to someone that NEEDS to pass emissions as obd2...

 

99CcordMTF23 he wouldnt have to worry about emissions cause its not obd2.. so its just a saftey inspection anyway

 

Hello, just singed up and need of serious help. I have a 96 civic with a stock H22a1 swap. i was planning to use my obd1 p28 ecu for a everyday use and my obd2 p5m Ecu for only emission purpose. when im running the p28 car pull's like a champ with no cel. when i install the p5m after 5 miles the cel light came on with random misfire code. i have searched all over and im getting mixed info, but nothing that matches my situation. i know that the distrubitor r different between obd1 to obd2. how can i get it to work so the cel goes away and finally pass emission. i have installed a egr valve to the intake manifold and had Inline pro wire up the harness for it. But there no help at all when it comes to the random misfire's. please help

 

The p5m requires no resistor box. Does your car have one ? I'm not sure about the civic but if the crank sensor and tdc sensor are at the crank you should be fine in that regard. Did you plug the sensors in when you installed the engine ?

 

holmesnmanny- no resistor box, i have no yet installed the crank sensor and tdc sensor to the crank yet. i was told by inline pro that it wasnt necessary, but it does make sense that it does need it seens the obd2 ecu pulls the signal from the crank intead of the distrubitor.will ill give it a shot and let u know.. thanks!!!

 

If you use the obd1 p28 ecu then you won't need to have the crank and tdc sensor wired in, that's why they said u didn't need one. I assume you're using some kind of jumper harness since your civic should be obd2(keep in mind I'm no Civic expert, however all cars 96 and up should be obd2 so that's what I'm assuming) and you guys are going down to obd1 from obd2(civic). You will need to source an obd2 h22a1(96) or h22a4(97-01) oil pump and install it and also source a connector and run two wires from the ecu pins( Just splice it into your jumper harness somewhere that's easy to get to) to the crank and tdc sensor that come with the oil pump assembly. Make sure to use shielded wire...16 gauge should work....those two sensors are susceptible to radio interference and need to be shielded and the metal sheath of the shielded wire needs to be grounded. Just cut back some of the metal sheath at the ecu location of the shielded wire, roll it up and put a butt connector on it and run it to a ground location.

I'm not sure how your distributor is currently being utilized. I'm guessing it's an obd1 distributor and I'm not sure how it got hooked up with your obd2 harness. You might not have to do anything differently than is already ran there since you're just running two new wires down to the crank and tapping into to them at the ecu harness.