What rotors to get??
Will im thinking its about time to change my rotors. Im sure they were never changed out before. I can see the rust on the inner layers and when I drive on the highway going 80-90mph and step on the brakes it kind of shakes. Honestly its not that bad where I had way worse in my GsR. My R only has 73k on the clock.... I guess Im just picky
But anyways just wondering what rotors to get and what rotors are you guys running??
I wouldn't mind other set of oem again but i kind of want something that slot and drill. I don't really track the R and don't really use heavy brakes alot but I do travel a lot on the highway. I understand that drill and slot rotors are more for track caRs but they look so mean when the 5 lug spins around it
I was looking @ password jdm, ebc, stoptech, brembo rotors. Any running them? If anyone can give me some help I would really appreciate it. Thanks guys
But anyways just wondering what rotors to get and what rotors are you guys running?? I wouldn't mind other set of oem again but i kind of want something that slot and drill. I don't really track the R and don't really use heavy brakes alot but I do travel a lot on the highway. I understand that drill and slot rotors are more for track caRs but they look so mean when the 5 lug spins around it
I was looking @ password jdm, ebc, stoptech, brembo rotors. Any running them? If anyone can give me some help I would really appreciate it. Thanks guys
zinc coated oem style is the way to go if you want to keep it looking great. having plated rotors prevents rust from forming on the hub and vein area.
htc black paint also can do the trick
personally, i have no preference in rotors.....a blank is a blank is a blank.
the cheapo china rotors are a bit softer but they are all designed to be throw aways anyhoo
htc black paint also can do the trick
personally, i have no preference in rotors.....a blank is a blank is a blank.
the cheapo china rotors are a bit softer but they are all designed to be throw aways anyhoo
zinc coated oem style is the way to go if you want to keep it looking great. having plated rotors prevents rust from forming on the hub and vein area.
htc black paint also can do the trick
personally, i have no preference in rotors.....a blank is a blank is a blank.
the cheapo china rotors are a bit softer but they are all designed to be throw aways anyhoo
htc black paint also can do the trick
personally, i have no preference in rotors.....a blank is a blank is a blank.
the cheapo china rotors are a bit softer but they are all designed to be throw aways anyhoo
that's what I was thinking aslo...
I'll tell you go with Brembo Blank Rotors
Bought them for my R, along with SS lines, and I haven't looked back since. This is my DD vehicle with "occasional spirited driving"
Bought them for my R, along with SS lines, and I haven't looked back since. This is my DD vehicle with "occasional spirited driving"
Slotted/drilled are a rip. Go with blanks.
But if you do want that bling bling for all the boyz at your lcoal Honda GTG, make sure they are CAST rotors with the holes molded in and not just blanks with holes drilled into them.
But if you do want that bling bling for all the boyz at your lcoal Honda GTG, make sure they are CAST rotors with the holes molded in and not just blanks with holes drilled into them.
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I think this thread needs a clarifIcation. Drilled and slotted are not the same. They dont do the same things and really shoudnt be lumped together when talking about rotors for our cars. I have had great success with slotted rotors. I wouldnt touch or even consider a drilled rotor.
While I agree the autozone cheapies are a great bang for the buck for a wearable item. I've been thru many sets of them. But they are inconsistant in my experience with them in terms of pad/rotor wear. I was frustrated by these inconsistancies and started experimenting with slotted vs autozone blanks a few years ago and that continues to this day. I agree with a zinc coated rotor as well. Rust makes me mad and it mixes with the brake dust that just leads to other problems and more work potentially.
Again, I have had great success with a slotted rotor. The pad wear is completely even. The hot spots are thus minimized and the life expectancy is increased, in most cases by double or more what I was getting with the autozone blanks. So does the extended life of the slotted rotors justify the increase in price? I'd say so. Not too mention, not having to change them out as often is a big plus when you are doing the work yourself.
I am currently using DBA 4000 series rotors and have been very pleased. 4 track days later and they dont even show it.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=DBA&model=4000+Series+Rotor&group= 4000+Series+Rotor&cat=Rotors
FWIW, the best rotor I have ever used in terms of longvevity was a Mugen replacement rotor. It was also the most expensive and I really dont want to do it again but that rotor lasted me a full season and 2.5 sets of pads before it started cracking from heat. Something to be said for using quality parts.
While I agree the autozone cheapies are a great bang for the buck for a wearable item. I've been thru many sets of them. But they are inconsistant in my experience with them in terms of pad/rotor wear. I was frustrated by these inconsistancies and started experimenting with slotted vs autozone blanks a few years ago and that continues to this day. I agree with a zinc coated rotor as well. Rust makes me mad and it mixes with the brake dust that just leads to other problems and more work potentially.
Again, I have had great success with a slotted rotor. The pad wear is completely even. The hot spots are thus minimized and the life expectancy is increased, in most cases by double or more what I was getting with the autozone blanks. So does the extended life of the slotted rotors justify the increase in price? I'd say so. Not too mention, not having to change them out as often is a big plus when you are doing the work yourself.
I am currently using DBA 4000 series rotors and have been very pleased. 4 track days later and they dont even show it.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=DBA&model=4000+Series+Rotor&group= 4000+Series+Rotor&cat=Rotors
FWIW, the best rotor I have ever used in terms of longvevity was a Mugen replacement rotor. It was also the most expensive and I really dont want to do it again but that rotor lasted me a full season and 2.5 sets of pads before it started cracking from heat. Something to be said for using quality parts.
Last edited by get RIGHT; Jul 16, 2011 at 05:48 PM.
I think im good with autozone rotors...im more then likely to pick up some oem again. Drill or slot rotors was just a thought but again im not a show or HARDCORE track person. Would be nice to get a set tho...thanks for the heads up guys
IIRC, even F1 uses full face rotors (even if their compound is different). That should attest to their usability on the track.
Just remember that DRILLED are crap. Slotted actually helps some, but if you don't track often it won't make a big difference.
Just remember that DRILLED are crap. Slotted actually helps some, but if you don't track often it won't make a big difference.
I used cryo treated powerslot rotors on my '06 WRX, they were about $100 extra as far as cost, roughly $250 for the pair. In terms of breaking the feel was the same to me...but I hear its more about the longevity. They lasted 30k miles and then I sold the car, guy probably still has 'em for all I know.
I feel the same as 'get right' as far as autozone's...just too inconsistent for me so I went to Brembo blanks and used those for pretty much the last 5 years on every car I've had since.
Drilled rotors= just about the dumbest idea ever from everything I've read and experienced...and I've never had a set of drilled rotors that didn't squeak or make an obnoxious noise.
Sidenote- Yesterday I purchased wilwood bbk after a long phone call w/Fastbrakes. I like the fact that the blanks are like $35 a piece and pads are $50/pair tops. 2-piece rotors FTW.
I feel the same as 'get right' as far as autozone's...just too inconsistent for me so I went to Brembo blanks and used those for pretty much the last 5 years on every car I've had since.
Drilled rotors= just about the dumbest idea ever from everything I've read and experienced...and I've never had a set of drilled rotors that didn't squeak or make an obnoxious noise.
Sidenote- Yesterday I purchased wilwood bbk after a long phone call w/Fastbrakes. I like the fact that the blanks are like $35 a piece and pads are $50/pair tops. 2-piece rotors FTW.
Last edited by PreyStayShun; Jul 17, 2011 at 08:09 AM. Reason: can't spell
Just be happy and go OEM! Blanks are the best!
No Autozone, Discount auto, pep boys... because the metals used are junk crap from China!
plus, there is less surface area on drilled rotors! and will warp eaiser!
No Autozone, Discount auto, pep boys... because the metals used are junk crap from China!
plus, there is less surface area on drilled rotors! and will warp eaiser!
OEM rotors are ridiculously expensive for what you get. I'd go autozone, I got a really good deal on a set of brembo blanks that seem to be working fine too
I think this thread needs a clarifIcation. Drilled and slotted are not the same. They dont do the same things and really shoudnt be lumped together when talking about rotors for our cars. I have had great success with slotted rotors. I wouldnt touch or even consider a drilled rotor.
While I agree the autozone cheapies are a great bang for the buck for a wearable item. I've been thru many sets of them. But they are inconsistant in my experience with them in terms of pad/rotor wear. I was frustrated by these inconsistancies and started experimenting with slotted vs autozone blanks a few years ago and that continues to this day. I agree with a zinc coated rotor as well. Rust makes me mad and it mixes with the brake dust that just leads to other problems and more work potentially.
Again, I have had great success with a slotted rotor. The pad wear is completely even. The hot spots are thus minimized and the life expectancy is increased, in most cases by double or more what I was getting with the autozone blanks. So does the extended life of the slotted rotors justify the increase in price? I'd say so. Not too mention, not having to change them out as often is a big plus when you are doing the work yourself.
I am currently using DBA 4000 series rotors and have been very pleased. 4 track days later and they dont even show it.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=DBA&model=4000+Series+Rotor&group= 4000+Series+Rotor&cat=Rotors
FWIW, the best rotor I have ever used in terms of longvevity was a Mugen replacement rotor. It was also the most expensive and I really dont want to do it again but that rotor lasted me a full season and 2.5 sets of pads before it started cracking from heat. Something to be said for using quality parts.
While I agree the autozone cheapies are a great bang for the buck for a wearable item. I've been thru many sets of them. But they are inconsistant in my experience with them in terms of pad/rotor wear. I was frustrated by these inconsistancies and started experimenting with slotted vs autozone blanks a few years ago and that continues to this day. I agree with a zinc coated rotor as well. Rust makes me mad and it mixes with the brake dust that just leads to other problems and more work potentially.
Again, I have had great success with a slotted rotor. The pad wear is completely even. The hot spots are thus minimized and the life expectancy is increased, in most cases by double or more what I was getting with the autozone blanks. So does the extended life of the slotted rotors justify the increase in price? I'd say so. Not too mention, not having to change them out as often is a big plus when you are doing the work yourself.
I am currently using DBA 4000 series rotors and have been very pleased. 4 track days later and they dont even show it.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=DBA&model=4000+Series+Rotor&group= 4000+Series+Rotor&cat=Rotors
FWIW, the best rotor I have ever used in terms of longvevity was a Mugen replacement rotor. It was also the most expensive and I really dont want to do it again but that rotor lasted me a full season and 2.5 sets of pads before it started cracking from heat. Something to be said for using quality parts.
Shawn, interesting.
I've had the opposite with slotted rotors. I ate an entire set of pads in about 1.5 hours with a set of slotted rotors at Sebring club course during a race. Yes, GS-R brakes in this case but it won't make a difference for this discussion. Possibly just different angles of the slots or something made the difference?
Anyways, I'm a big fan of NAPA, Autozone, etc blanks for track car but I've found them to be pretty bad at warping/shaking (at least the cheaper versions) on the street. NAPA Ultra Premium's are machined better and I haven't had the same issues with them. Brembo's I've also used on the street and track and have had good luck.
FWIW, in the race car we get at least 12 hours of racing out of a normal set of cheap blanks, unless it's sebring club course, but that's a different discussion
We've gotten over 20 hours on cheap ones too, depending on pad choice (stop tech pads = longer life than say, hawk blues..).
I just checked my Brembo blanks this weekend. After 50k miles with HPS pads, they were still 0.880" thick with no cracking. (These are 282mmx23mm rotors.)
Anecdotally, our 2005 Odyssey wore out the stock rotors at 20k miles. The pads were at 50%. I replaced the rotors with Autozone Duralast rotors and they have been going strong for 55k miles outlasting the first pads and currently on the second set.
Anecdotally, our 2005 Odyssey wore out the stock rotors at 20k miles. The pads were at 50%. I replaced the rotors with Autozone Duralast rotors and they have been going strong for 55k miles outlasting the first pads and currently on the second set.
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