here goes...

i have a b18b that is built running higher compression, in my teg it ran fine no problems what so ever. shortly after i got it built, i totaled it. i have now put the engine in a civic hatch, now here is where the problems begin. right from the begining after the swap the car accelerates fine a full throttle, but at part throttle while trying to keep a constant speed/rpm the engine bogs and acts like it isnt getting enough fuel. (btw- when it does this my air/fuel is pegged at rich, fuel pressure gauge does not drop or act "funny")

checked codes and one came back for the coolent temp sensor, so we replaced it and that didnt help. so my mechanic checked all the sensors witha electrical tester and found nothing, one thing was it seemed to be heat related, when the engine got to a certain temp, is when it started happening, so the next thing was to try the 02 sensor, put it in a ran like a champ

well that was friday, now it is wedesday, and just this morning it started again, about 30mins into my 90min trip and did it untill i got about 5 mins from work, so what the hell could it be? and what is the cheepist way to start figuring it out, to my knoledge all sensors have been checked (TPS, MAP...) but since it doesn't happen all the time and doesn't throw a code, where do i start? (also cap, rotor has been checked)

background info: b18b, 11.3:1 cr, crower 403 cams, cam gears set to 0, jdm itr header, ecu reprogramed by pyr with fuel maps and raised redline

could the ecu have gone bad because of the accident? thanks

 

If it's bogging at part-throttle, it might be the ignition components such as spark plugs, plug wires, distributor or ignitor. Try checking the plugs and wires first and see if that helps.

I had a similar problem w/ the car bogging after pasting 50% throttle. I found out that my MSD 6A was fucked. I changed it back to stock and every thing is fine now.

 

would that have any thing to do with the air/fuel reading rich?

 

That could be it too. With the 403's and 11+ CR, you are guaranteed to run rich, especially at IDLE. Get a S-AFC and lean it slightly at IDLE or get the ECU tuned.

 

ok, i have a safc, i just have not installed it, i bought it and then thought about going with a hondata system but i really dont have the money for it right now, but im also worried that something in the ecu might have gotten f'ed in the accident and it would be pointless to put on the safc, hmmm, maybe if i sell the safc i might have enough money for a hondata

the ecu has been chipped by pyr, but i relise this is in no way an accurate tune

 

install the afc. then bring down the fuel. do u have a rechipped ecu or anything. also check the gap on the plugs.

 

ttt

 

the ecu has been rechipped by pyr. the engine was running fine in the last car for the two weeks i had it, so i know it isnt a bad chip. what bothers me about installing the afc is that it will just complicate matters, plugs have been checked, they are a little rich but not bad.

i just took it back down to my mechanic, and it drove horible all the way down. it seems to be getting worse, it only drives good at full throttle or no throttle, every where in between it runs awful

 

check your compression and the gap of the plug.

 

o2 sensor went bad, im going to put another one in, to see if perhaps the other one was a defect, if it goes out then there is definatly a problem with something shorting it out, my only thought then is to see if i can find another ecu to try to make sure mine is good