I am trying to build up my 94 accord ex sedan 5spd on a budget. I have just about completed my susension and I/H/E but where do I go from here?

I am wanting to build the f22b1 all motor and keep my stock tranny, clutch, axles etc. I know I won't be able to drop the clutch from 5k rpm on a regular basis but otherwise, will these stock components handle 200hp?

Also, what is the cheapest and best way to get 200hp out of the f22b1. How would you approach this project?

 

The abosolute cheapest way to do it is a 50 shot of NOS. But I consider that cheating

My F22b1 puts out 160-170hp to the wheels with a balanced and blueprinted motor, exhaust, and a very very well tuned engine management system.

Despite what some people say, it is a potent motor. It is also one of the most durable 4 cylinder motors honda makes.

 

easy, yuo just need to make a broad flat 155+ wtq and have a rev range up to 7200, so give me a few months and ill tell you the complete list


[Modified by SOHCArchangel, 10:28 AM 10/2/2002]

 

Yeah, I considered getting N2O but now I am thinking all motor f22 would be unique and would teach me a lot about the internal workings of an engine. I am pretty competent with suspension and I understand the basics of how an engine works but a lot of the internal mod stuff is completely new to me.

What exactly is balanced and blue printed??
What are you running for engine management? modified ECU? VAFC?

 

balanced and blue printed means that the engine was rebuilt to very exact specifications so it can run exactly how it was designed.

I'm using the EFI PMS http://www.efisystems.com/

the VAFC look is a fisher price toy compared to the EFI PMS.
AEM makes one but the EFI is better from what I hear.

 

OT. what about the f23?

 

whaddaboutit?

 

200whp or 200hp? Thats a pretty pretty noticeable difference. We need to establish that first before we can help you.

A stock clutch is going to slip like crazy with either of those numbers. An aftermarket clutch is a necessity. Axles would be fine, the tranny would be fine.

 

just replace 22 with 23 in the original post

 

Yep, (155x7200)/5250=212

The math is the easy part. Getting there is where you come in!

 

Yeah, I realized the difference and purposely neglected to state which in my original question because I didn't know if 200whp on stock drivetrain is even possible. I didn't want to sound stoopid. Which ever is more bang for the buck is probably the way I would like to go. For instance, if it would cost me $750 to get 200hp crank and $3000 to get 200whp, I would definately go with the 200 crank.

 

The Accord/Prelude drivetrain is stronger than the Civic/Integra's. It will handle more torque. the only thing you really have to worry about is CV boots. I've had to replace axles twice because of worn boots.

 

A balanced engine is a really simple concept but its awesome what it can do for an engine. Balancing the engine is just like they balanced your tires before putting them on the car. how they do it? simply the put it in a machine that make the part to spin at high speed and the machine tells them where do they have to take weight so that the part don't vibrate at high RPM. They balanced the crankshaft (they take weight away by drilling small holes and put something that is similar in weight to the piston/rod combination, so it would resemble the engine in normal use), they also make sure that the piston/rod assembly is close in weight to the others so that when the engine spins faster there are not vibrations, which are really bad for the bearings, so technically a balanced engine would last longer and it would be saffer at high RPM. I would recommend to do this if you decide to rebuild your engine or you just want to be sure that engine would last longer.

as for the blueprinting goes, i don't have much knowledge about it, but i can tell you one or two things about it.
When they build your engine blueprinting it, it means that they measure everything and make it all the same clearences between rods and bearings, the crankshaft and bearings, etc...
they also make sure that the clearences are correct for the oil film, i've heard that blueprinting is getting the engine build just as stock specs, but i don't think is true cuz the engine wasn't build for racing. you would need to search more about blueprinting.

And if i wrote something that's not correct, please correct me, my main lenguage is spanish.
Hope it helps and good luck, keep me posted on you progress

 

i wish my f22b1 put out 160-170 whp, thats stock ITR territory.

 

I can tell you this, I can compete with Prelude H22's with my setup.

I just need a H23 tranny to accellerate better.

 

I think money would be better spent on an H22 if you want to be all motor.

 

For the money, I would turbo the F22b1. I've seen the motor take 8-10psi stock without problems.

Low compression + strong internals + long geared tranny = Excellent turbo application

 

The iffy one would be the clutch. Otherwise youre good to 253hp and 264ftlbs to the wheels.


[Modified by niedejb, 4:10 PM 10/2/2002]

 

H22 has less miles and reliabilty!

Since most F22b1s probably have around 100K it just doesn't seem like a great idea to go turbo if you need to daily drive the car and run on stock internals.

I'm not going to argue power since that was beaten to death a few months ago.

 

True, it is much harder to find F22b1's with low miles than H22's.

Both engines are just as reliable. But I've seen the F22b1 take more of a beating.

On a daily driver turbo, I wouldn't go more than 8psi but some people do with F22b's.

yea, we don't need to talk about power. we all know the H22 is more powerful.

IMHO, the F22b1 is the best bang for the buck. prices for H22's are skyrocketing because it is easier than ever to swap them into a Civic/Integra. Plus it is comparable in price to a high-end B series motor but has more HP and waaaay more torque.

 

OK - but lets get back to the question...

What would need to be done to get an f22b1 pulling 200hp at the crank?
What kind of internal mods are we talking about beyond the I/H/E? I am going to need to rebuild my engine anyway at some point. What would I need to do for a performance rebuild and would it cost much more than a regular rebuild?

 

nitrous.

WuWarrior: how is nitrous cheating?

 

Youll have to go with higher compression pistons. http://www.raceeng.com has 11:1 F22b1 application.

Doing that and a reground cam is the only way to get you there.

Unfortunately youre going to need some sort of standalone engine management too. That compression and a different cam will make your stock fuel/timing maps worthless.

My $.02

 

Too late.

 

Got the dyno charts?