I have a glowshift a/f gauge which seems to be in a ballpark range of the correct reading but i want make sure while i have to save up to buy a wideband.. the gauge I have now is just a simple needle reading , But i just have the o2 wired straight to the gauge , my question is will i have more of a accurate reading slpiting it off to the ecu ? should i leave it wired straight to the gauge OR wire it to the ecu also ? Its on a boosted SOHC EF running a p28 ecu on 12 lbs and how accurate are these gauges ? And i am running a single wire o2 sensor so if i need to wire it to the ecu will i need a 4 wire o2 or can i just wire the single wire 1 to d14?

 

I would just run a real wideband and get rid of the glowshift.

http://www.xenocron.com/wideband-c-2...ac2333f98dbbda

 

yeah real wideband ftw

just ordered this last night =]

http://www.garage16.ca/ProductDetail...ctCode=30-4100

 

i know i said i was going to , but i wanna know about the glowshift for the time being !

 

or ill just verify the glowshift with a multi meter

 

Narrowband FTL... You will never know what your AFRs are. Narrowband will only read ~14.0-15.0 AFR.Nowhere near what you need on a turbocharged engine.

Ditch that and get a real WBO2.

If you must use the sensor for the ECU's input, yes D14 is the correct input for the O2 sensor signal. You may throw DTC's for the heater circuit however. You will likely experience issues with warm-up as well since the ECU is expecting the O2 sensor to be at operating temperature alot sooner than a single wire sensor is able to.

 

the glowshit is about as accurate and useful as pissing into the wind...

 

set sail for fail

 

okkk thennnnnnnnnnn

 

what everyone is trying to say is that a narrowband gauge is not reliable because it reads on a 0-1v scale that is not linear. this pic is helpful when trying to understand


the rich and lean indicators on the gauge cover a wide range of afr. on a narrowband gauge rich could mean anything from 14;1 afr down to 10:1 afr or lower. and on the other end lean could indicate an afr of 15-20. you can see that this is not reliable especially with a boosted motor. for example, your gauge says "rich" but the afr is 13.5:1, not the ideal afr under boost.

widebands have a nice linear 0-5v output so you can get a precise measurement of afr


here you can see that each voltage only corresponds to one afr reading: .5v=11 afr, 3.5v=17 afr, and so on

 

Great post