I'm driving a 1994 Integra RS with a 2000 GSR swap. Whenever I accelerate from a stop if the RPMS are up at all when i release the clutch I hear a squeak like a belt slipping on the passenger side of the engine, thought it was my tire squeaking at first but it was pretty consistent unless I'm really easy on the acceleration. Any ideas?

 

Throw out bearing most likely. Do you ride with your foot resting on the clutch petal?

 

Yeah I do lol Is it a big deal? or a easy fix?

 

I agree that it's probably the throwout bearing. You can drive for a surprisingly long time on a bad bearing if you're careful. If it fails (bearing breaks) your clutch will stay permanently engaged, so the car is still technically driveable, at least enough to get you to a shop.

To fix it requires a new clutch. Whether that's easy depends on how handy you are with a wrench!

It's also possible that it's something else. I have an exhaust rattle at 2600 rpm that sounds very much like a bad release bearing. Since the engine hits that speed when I'm shifting, it could be confused for a release bearing. But it also makes the noise if the engine tachs up/down in neutral. If you only get the noise when you're slipping the clutch, it's most likely a failing bearing.

 

So be extremely easy on the clutch till I know for sure what it is?
It only does it going into first, all the other gears are fine and it also doesn't always do it.

 

If you don't hear the noise, you aren't putting much extra wear on the bearing. So trying to drive so that you don't make the noise is the best way to extend it's life now that it's failing.

When starting from a stop, you can practice slipping the clutch less. You can blip the throttle to rev the engine a little and put some energy in the flywheel, then pop the clutch a little when you're launching. If you get back on the gas quickly you can save the engine before it bogs and get off to a start without making the noise happen or using the clutch much. On 1-2, 2-3 etc. upshifts protecting the bearing is as simple as rev-matching (or double clutching).

 

Alright, thanks for you help man!

 

Nice how to on the clutch play. I Pretty much agree with everything Gagnar said. If it is the bearing it is new clutch time. Try to not rest your foot on the petal, it causes the throw out bearing to be engaged all of the time. That is y you got premature failure.

 

Well the clutch only has 13k on it >.< so the guy I bought it from said anyway.. Stage 2 six puck disc clutch, I know they're sensitive clutches but that's retarded early for a bad throw barring >.<

 

What brand is it? Some brands are disreputable and go out pretty quickly. It's also possible the guy was lying, lol.

Fortunately clutches aren't too expensive.

 

Brand of clutch is in quote above ^^
how much do you think another clutch would run?

 

Exedy OEM Replacement

Exedy Stage 1

You can find cheaper clutches (e.g. F1) but they'll just do what your clutch did, or worse. AFIK Exedy is the only reputable clutch maker for Hondas. If there are others they aren't as well known. ACT, F1, etc. don't have a good reputation.

Unless I'm wrong in this case 'Stage 2' isn't a brand, it just refers to (what the company thinks) the 'racing' level of the clutch is. Generally Stage 1 or 2 deliver stronger gripping (with a correspondingly firmer feel with rougher takeup) than stock, and Stage 3+ are more for race applications or boy racers who like big numbers!. Not that there's any real standardization. And six-puck refers to the clutch design.

 

Hah well I feel a bit silly..
if that's the case then I'm not sure what brand but a new clutch seems pretty reasonable.