Anyone ever seen a better battery tie down harness for a 88/91 CRX/Civic? The thin stock steel harness doesnt seem that great, and the little nuts look ready to rip thru it. A couple other issues I want to solve is placing something ferrous across the battery that comes near to both terminals. Something that goes transverse would probably better, or with proper cutouts so the terminals dont come in contact with the harness. So before I fab sometihng on my own, anyone else have any aftermarket products or ideas? I dont think the DC and AEM billet stuff would fit.

 

This is back from the waaaayyy dead.

I am curious on this also.

 

I have just always ended back up with stock. There is a generic mount kit that you can buy at Wal-mart, etc. that reaches across the middle with normal nut to hook bolt tie downs but they are all too wide for the narrow facttory Honda battery. I have kinked them to the side and back to narrow them up but the other dimensions don't fit well either. I always just end back up at stock and have never had one come loose.

 

I made one from a metal stock in "L" form once..

Maybe you can find some thing non ferrous in the shape of and L and you would be set. cArBon fIbeR yO!

 

I just took a piece of 1/8" aluminum and covered it in non conductive paint. I ran it across the battery and used it as a tie down. Worked pefectly.. Ill look for pics

 

ive solved my battery tie down problems since this old thread started.

actually, first, i used the "R" version of the STOCK battery, what it does is place the terminals on the inboard side, closer to the engine. (check your local battery store, itll be under the same designation as stock [51?] but with an "R" next to it) this first allows the terminals to be further away from my previously installed (now gotten rid of) AEM intake which comes dangerously close to the positive terminal.

then i got a stock steel channel bar and cut to length and drilled two holes and placed it right above the holes of the battery base so the oem threaded rods just go straight up. holds the battery down extremely tight.

ive tried it with the rubber band thingy they sell at auto stores. doesnt work too well since the rubber deforms too easily so it doesnt give enough grip, plus, the holes are set a bit too wide.

sorry no pics at the moment.

and yeah, ive previously made a beefier bracket made of aluminum L bar. itll workif you can bend the end a bit closer for the OEM rods to go thru, or buy some aftermarket ones. but since im using the "R" battery, it wont work since thats the terminal side.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this first allows the terminals to be further away from my previously installed (now gotten rid of) AEM intake which comes dangerously close to the positive terminal.
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I've had this before when I was running a "filter on a stick" intake with a steel tube to I had to make sure there was as much room as possible then tape up the positive terminal. Now I have a plastic Iceman intake so I don't have to worry about the conductivity.

Didn't know your could get a battery with the terminals on the otherside. I have made my replaced a missing stock tie down bar with angle iron but the stock bar is shaped so the J-hooks don't have to be so long. With the angle iron, the hooks had to be much longer and interfered with other things including the hood itself. Not much clearance at the forward hook.

My F Prod CRX uses a remote battery but I have not decided quite how to mount it. I have the plastic box but amy too **** to just do the down and dirty "strap it to the floor" route. If anyone has suggestiosn on doing a clean but not overdone remote mount, I am open to ideas and need to do it in the next week or two.

 

lee, a simple L bracket constrained against the wall and the floor should adequately hold the battery down. use a wall to your advantage.