Driving a '90 B16a CRX. I bought it with the swap. I'm having trouble passing emissions and I've already done: plugs, wires, distributor cap + rotor, FI cleaner and a new cat.

Does the B16 have an EGR valve?

Right now it has a breather filter on. Should I replace the breather filter with the tube that goes from the valve cover to the intake?

OR

Should I connect a catch can? (How necessary is a catch can on a NA engine?)


TIA

 

What are you failing- some numbers would be helpful.

 

yeah - the numbers are all inter-related - one goes up the others go down,

so let us know all hte numbers...

t..

 

[Modified by hondanut, 10:28 PM 11/18/2002]

 

Might try a new O2 sensor and an oil change and probably a valve adjustment. Be sure your timing belt is not loose and is installed properly. What brand ignition components did you use? You are running rich. How does the car run? What do your plugs look like?


[Modified by fixhondas, 2:19 PM 10/2/2002]

 

Thanks for the reply, fixhondas. I think you're right on about the O2 sensor. I put a DC 4-2-1 header on (1st gen B16) and placed one sensor in it's location (near the cat) and taped up the other O2 wire. I need to plug up that hole and have both O2s welded on the primaries, don't I?

Plugs are brand new NGKs, cap and rotor are aftermarket, wires are Magnecor. Forgive my ignorance, but how would a loose timing belt affect it?

Also, I'd really appreciate it if you could look at these questions from my earlier post-

Thanks a lot!

 

Which ECU are you running?
I don't see how you will pass visual inspection with a breather- you should hook up the hose for emissions testing at least (unless they don't care)
A loose belt can cause "sloppy" cam timing and if the belt is off a tooth you can have problems there too. Just something to check that can cause rich running anyway.
Also, (not that it is giving you problems yet) stay away from aftermarket ignition parts- they are junk and cause numerous running problems. If it doesn't say TEC on it, it's not a Honda cap. Stick with NGK or Denso plugs, and Honda's factory wires are good and generally last almost forever (made by Sumitomo).

If you are running a JDM ECU you will have nothing but problems (passing emissions and running problems in certain cases) unless you use the factory manifold and both O2 sensors (they have to be hooked up to the correct bank as well). I would suggest contacting Hondata or Zdyne to find out more info on this. Hondata has more info on the dual O2 sensor/ECU relationship.

 

One mechanic told me to check the EGR valve, but I'm not sure if the B16 has one...do you know for sure?

I forgot to tell you, my ECU is the PW0.

Yes, I thought I needed to hook up those hose for emissions- thanks for confirming. Is there a reason I'd want to put the breahter back on at all?

As for ignition parts- do you think I should replace the brand new cap and rotor I bought with OEM Honda? OEM Honda was like 2-3 times as $ and I thought they were all the same. What's the difference. I thought Magnecor wires were the best (cost $76!), although I've heard OEM Honda are good too (actually I heard NGK made the Honda wires).

You're not suggesting I get the ECU chipped are you? I'm pretty positive I wouldn't pass if I did that, plus I've heard gas mpg really suffers.

Do you think I should try to get ahold of a factory ECU and put it in to go through emissions?

Again, thanks for all the help on his

 

Only an HF has an EGR valve. No the b16 don't. And listen to this.that's all you need to know. Check out Hondatas web site tooo,very informative.

 

No EGR valve on B16. If you had EGR problems you would probably be running lean and/or producing alot of NOX.

PWO ECU requires One O2 to see one pair of cylinders and the ther O2 to see the other pair of cylinders. I am unsure which cylinders are paired for which O2. Zdyne makes a one wire conversion you could use or you can try Hondata. It is not as simple as just "using both O2 sensors" They have to see the proper cylinders with this ECU.

It would be interesting to see what a 1.6 SOHC ecu would do on this engine with emissions. The engine would probably run lean (under heavy accel anyway)and you might fail NOX, but I don't know for sure. Might be worth a shot and it might be ok.

I'm sure your cap and rotor will be fine, but if it was my car, I would put some honda parts on there. (just another weak link)

Sumitomo makes most of Honda's wires, some newer Hondas have Prestolite. NGK wires are a really good alternative. Your Magnecores will probably be fine- just $76 that could have been spent elsewhere.

Breather is up to you- No real advantage/disadvantage here.

 

OK, I'll check out Hondata's site some more. Any specific link there? I'll also check out the Zdyne site for that one wire conversion- do you think it would better justt to take it to a muffler shop and have the two bungs welded though?

As for cap and rotor, now I'm kind of worried. What's the difference between aftermarket and OEM as far as quality- it seems so simple to produce either way?

What's you opinion of the Magnecor wires? Any experience with them? I did A LOT of research before I bought them, but now I'm not so sure if I made the right decision.

What about the catch can? Is that necessary? I've read that without it, the TB and intake manifold can get all cruddy?

Do you think I should just use some carb cleaner or something?

 

if you'd like a really good link to learn about emmissions etc, here it is:

http://users.bigpond.net.au/ergoff/Faq.htm

our govt. is becoming more strict on emmissions, and this link (not the best site layout) is very informative...

HTH,

t..

 

Caps and rotors- well, I have seen rotors that literally fall apart which can lead to burned up coils and engines that don't run, I had one bosch rotor that would pass spark into the distributor shaft which caused severe misfires and stalling (it was brand new). The caps are poorly insulated, and the rotor button in them tends to fail prematurely, that is if the rotor doesn't come apart first. I see this kind of stuff every day, and it all gets fixed with grnuine Honda parts.

As far as welding bungs- you need to be sure the DC header separates the cylinders just like the stock B16 manifold does. If it doesn't- then you can't even try this method.

Catch can should really only be necessary if you are running around town all day at WOT, running boost, or have a worn out engine.

Don't worry about your wires, if you can return them I would get my money back and buy something else, keep your stockers handy at least.

You can email Hondata and tell them your situation and see what they recommend.

Carb cleaner or brake cleaner will clean the TB.

 

Sorry,here's the link. http://hondata.com/techo2problem.html

 

fixhondas- I wanted to ask you, are ignition parts the only OEM Honda parts that you recommend, or are there others--ones which I should replace with only OEM Honda?

As for the cap, rotor and wires: I no longer have the stock one because one of the wires broke at the boot...as for Magnecor, stock, or NGK, are they all about the same or is one better than the others? Aslo, do you still think I should go ahead and get the OEM cap and rotor just to be safe?

Thanks a lot.

 

was your car hotboxed at the Time. lol THC. mmmmmmmmmmm

 

In general- Honda parts are best- unless you are speaking of real performance parts.

Don't worry about the cap and rotor unless you have driveability problems with them. I like stock or NGK wires, or any wire that doesn't fall apart when you are trying to remove them. Sounds like the wires you removed were not stock Honda wires. The Magnecors should be fine. The only problem is, when you do have running problems, you already have several possible components that could be at fault. You would be amazed how many cars that ran poorly or not at all I have repaired simply by replacing all of the new aftermarket ignition components (usually installed by firestone) with good honda parts. Use ONLY NGK or DENSO plugs- PERIOD.

I have found that Strong Arm hatch struts last longer than Honda's.

 

I had to revive this thread because I have a dilemma and I need your guys' help.

I finally got around to taking my car into the muffler shop today and the guy told me it would take 2 hours and cost $200 + to weld the two O2 bungs! He said he'd need to take the header out in order to do it. That thing was a pain in the butt to put in too...

Anyway, I can't afford that right now, but I HAVE to pass DEQ (emissions) by the end of November, so I'm wondering if there are any other options.

Could I--

Wire both O2 wires together?

Run without an O2 sensor connected at all (so ECU would run off factory settings)?

Connect a 4-wire O2 sensor?

OR???????


Thanks A LOT for any suggestions!


[Modified by hondanut, 11:18 AM 11/19/2002]

 

Anyone? It's getting close now