I can't get this damn crank pulley bolt off. This crank pulley is not the hex style so I can't use that little hex pulley holder. The holes in the crank pulley are not deep enough for bolts to sit in. None of my impacts are powerful enough to break that bolt loose. Put the car in fifth gear, had someone hold the brakes, crank has too much play before I run out of pulling space.

I've used one of the most expensive Craftsmen impacts out there, as well as a pretty badass IR gun. I've tried the back and forth method, used PB blaster, nothing.

I need to remove it so I can install timing belt covers from a spare/blown motor I have laying around, since this motor doesn't have those covers.

How in the hell am I supposed to get this bolt out? This is my daily so I have to finish this timing belt job today. Towing or driving it anywhere is out of the question since everyone is closed on the weekend.

 

There are some tricks... but not recomended. Anything you mess up is on your own dime - don't come crying to me because you can't pull it off.

You can take a breaker bar and socket put it on the crank pulley bolt - either block it or put it against the floor (something to keep it from spinning) - disable your car from running (pull fuses / unplug distributor / ect. Preferably spark related) - turn the motor over using the starter.

Another trick is to take the flywheel cover off - keep the engine from turning over by blocking it somehow (screwdriver through slot, proper wrench, ect...) - heat the bolt with a torch (handheld works but oxy-acetylene/mapp/chemtane/ect works best) and after a while apply constant pressure with breaker bar or hit it with impact on and off - if needed hit it with PB Blaster/WD-40/Kroil/Liquid Wrench/ect... (the heat will cause it to soak into the threads but be careful if you go to use heat again the stuff is flammable).

If those ideas don't work I have a few more, but you already stated your lack of tools is obvious.

 

camping torch!! heat it up and hit it with the impact!

 

you said you can't use a crankshaft holding tool correct? I believe thats what you said I couldn't understand it though.

 

Correct, the 88-91 motors don't have the hex shaped center in the crank pulley. I'm sure there's some sort of holder made, but I'm not going to bother investing a bunch of money and time on it.

Anyways, I got the new timing belt and tensioner on. As I just edited in to my first post, this motor didn't have the outer timing belt covers and the whole point in removing the crank pulley was to install a spare set of covers. I'm not dealing with this bolt all day so I just threw the new belt and tension on, and sometime next week I'll run this thing to a shop and have them zap the bolt off for me so I can swap those covers on, then have them throw the bolt back on.

 

Thanks for wasting our time.

 

Unlike others you may help on HT, I have **** to do and need a car. Being an adult and having things like a job means I can't leave my daily driver on jackstands while I dick around with a crank bolt all day.

I've been around here long enough and helped enough people to not be subjected to the bitching, so phone up Dr Phil if it's that much of a problem for you.

 

Your kidding me that just took a whole bunch will out of doing a timing belt myself...I am sure I can find something though...eventually. At least you got it working for now. Its difficult to work on a car especially when its the DD and something doesn't go right.

 

Honestly, your best bet is a badass impact gun. I just read a lot of bad things about doing this with a breaker/cheater bar, apparently it's bad for the main bearings.

 

yeah, it just sucks cause I don't have a garage...so getting an air compressor is more of a dream...ohwell...i would probably still do it with a cheater bar even though its not that great. I was googling around and they infact make a tool, I saw it on Amazon but decided not to throw the link up because it wasn't for sale anymore...

 

I've heard of people running their car to a shop for them to zap the bolt off, then put it back on a little over hand-tight so you can get back home and remove it.

 

thats an idea. Just don't use any serpentine belt equipment...right? Even if I don't use one it will always just be the alternator.

 

Don't know about that, not sure it would make a difference.

 

i've seen some one take some strong rope and a length of 2x4, hold the board on edge to the crank pully and wrap the rope tightly around the board and the pully so the board keeps the motor from spinning. me i just drop the pan and wedge a piece of wood between the crank and the side of the block till the bolt comes loose :-)

 

Oh? So you are saying an impact gun is good for them? You have that backwards son, think about what and impact does when it operates - exactly the opposite what you want the engine to do.

Also - I am only on here when I am at work sitting on my ***. I also can afford more than a few cars - so, no I have no idea what it's like to HAVE to get my only car back and running - sorry you are poor. Didn't mean for you to get all butt hurt, Dr. Phil said see you next Monday.

 

FYI their is a tool called a chain wrench. ive used it anytime I don't have access to air. Has a long bar on it with a chain that locks into the bar and get a long cheater bar with ur socket an man up son....ur welcome

 

No, the impact is NOT worse than a breaker bar + cheater pipe. You have that backwards, son.

With a breaker bar + cheater pipe you are throwing every bit of that torque in to the crank which is throwing it directly at the bearings, there is no oil pressure at this point because the motor is off, which means no oil suspending the crank on those bearings. Sure, plenty of people have done this with no immediate or obvious problem...but there's enough people that have had bearing issues after this for me to not want to do it.

Also, it's worth noting that torching is just as unsafe as the breaker bar + cheater pipe method. What do you think that torch is doing to that bolt to make it break loose? It's not some magic fix, you're actually weakening the metal and risking damaging that bolt or even the crank pulley either then or later on down the road.

 

Here is a post I made up on how I did this.
http://thezcr.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21736

The alltrade tool seems to be hard to find now unfortunately.

 

Now this is getting comical, I can tell you have been reading forums for your knowledge. So you think that all the oil just drains back into the pan the moment you shut off the car huh? Child unless you are close to retirement I doubt you are older than me. You clearly lack mechanical knowledge and it is obvious due to the fact you started this thread. If torque was so bad on bearings why would engines be designed how they are? Think about it - the worst thing for an engine is vibrations; this is why they install harmonic dampeners/balancers on crankshafts.

Oh forget it who am I kidding, you are obviously too stupid for your own good.

 

How are the normal operating conditions of a motor ANYTHING like applying torque directly to the crank(held stationary by whatever means necessary) with the motor off? And who said ANYTHING about how long it takes the oil to settle back down after the motor is shut off? Might want to go back and read my post.

Better yet, I didn't see you even try to touch my comment about heating that bolt with a torch. What's wrong kiddo, can't figure out a way to defy the laws of physics so you decided to leave it alone? Better that you did, can't go looking even more ridiculous than you do now.

Seriously, you're just making yourself look like an *** at this point. You're clacking away at the keyboard like an angry child. It's apparent that your super awesome career, that nets you the money to afford multiple cars, has absolutely nothing to do with actually working on them.

 

P.S. I've reported your posts and will report any further ones since it's apparent you're only trolling/flaming/throwing a tantrum at this point, and trying to back up your terrible advice with fabricated facts. Don't need people destroying their cars due to your "tips".

 

While that is true, I bypassed your ignorant comment on heating things up with a torch. Clearly you have lack of knowledge in this area yet again. Do your little formulas for heat transfer from conduction all you like - heating up the crank pulley won't harm a thing. You could get it pretty hot and as long as you don't quench it the structure will realign. This is also the preferred method when a crank timing gear that is seized on. Actually I am crying and foot stomping from laughing so damn hard at what you are saying. You are the only one truely making an *** out of themselves. Even more apparent you are young is you got bent out of shape about me saying something about wasting our time. If you dont have the ability or know how then why ask if you know it is above your skill level?

Thank you so much for the laughs though, it was rather entertaining.

 

I really hope you're not paid to work on vehicles, I could only imagine the amount of lawsuits that would result in.

To anyone else coming to this thread for info on the crank pulley bolt, please please PLEASE don't use this kid's advice. Some simple searching/reading will prove that his advice is not only terribly ghetto, but also not good for your vehicle. Bump-starting the crank pulley bolt off...I'm still lol'ing at that one. The "impact is worse than breaker bar" was also a riot, I'll have to post that one on the car club forum to give the guys some laughs.

 

PS - That's fine with me wouldn't be the first time. Also in your first post you say you put the car in 3rd and had some somebody hold the brakes. That is funny in itself on soo many levels. Also, it is you who started the trolling clown.

 

Actually, I work for the largest steel mill on the planet. I have been a Millwright for 40+ years - so yes, actually I get paid a lot of money to fix and fabricate things every day. Don't be mad kid - life has just started for you, maybe it will work out for you maybe it won't. Either way stay in school.