Just bought a billet 68mm throttle body for my b18a with a blox/skunk2 intake mani. Question is I know you have to tune it differently from stock, and curious if anyone has done this already??? Basically need to know what ohms to set it at. Any advice? Thanks in addvance!!(it has 402 crower cams,CAI,header,blox intake,68mm billet TB)

 

Tune it? Just set the voltage to about .5v and you are done.

 

check the ohms on your stock tps and set the new one to the same but anywhere from 5-9 is usually good

 

What are you talking about? The computer doesn't care about ohms for TPS, only volts. That's the whole reason you adjust them, for variances...

 

You might make a couple extra ponies with the new TB if all the other choke points are removed from the airflow on both ends of the engine and you hit the dyno for some tuning. You're not going to blow up without tuning it though.

I have a Pro Products 68mm TB and a Pro Products IM. Just bolt it on and set the TPS voltage according to the manual and you're done.

 

UPDATE: ok so thanks for advice, have it on now. But oddly almost seems slower?... Not as responsive. I got the 68mm so don't think I went too big. And TPS is set at .05 shut and 4.5 all open. Any clues? Thanks.

 

The TPS is in range... Did you degree the camshafts in? The 68mm is too big for a relatively stock B18A/B in my opinion. You have to understand too, when you tune a motor for more horsepower you will lose torque. The stock B18A/B heads don't flow well for N/A to begin with either.

 

Well I don't have any adjustable cam gears yet for it. So u think by getting some and tuning the cams in will help? Lol not too sure how to do that without putt'n a valve though the piston?!! Lol not that I would atemt to do it without having the proper knowledge! And the only reason I did the TB is I have that intake on there that had a larger opening. I'm just trying to optimize what power/torque I can squeez out of it. Again thnx for any advice!

 

I had this long drawn out explanation typed up and for some reason it didn't post... Sorry if below doesn't make 100% sense but I don't feel like retyping it all out.

So to sum it up - In stock form the LS is better suited for turbo than N/A. The Type R has a 62mm throttle body and has a better flowing head. To get some power back you need to get your ECU tuned, but it will still lose torque due to more air flow always hurts bottom end but helps top end (horsepower).

 

Ever tried to check voltage on a tps on a throttle body that is not in the car and plugged in............. oh ya it doesn't work so you set it by ohms genius

 

You do it how you want and I will do it the right way.

 

both ways are just as acceptable............. what is the argument? That yours is better than mine! grow up

 

The only problem with the ohms is that every sensor will not spec out the same, I ran into this problem a long time ago. Maybe it's acceptable now who knows because the market has dwindled back down - old habits die hard with me. To each his own I guess... but I didn't get all hurt about anything, so you grow up. Hah - thanks for the laugh.

 

lmao....Well your welcome for the laugh! Winning ha ha ha

 

Now now, I didn't want an argument! Just fiddle'n round to get it run'n better is all. After giving it some thought, I think it's a combo of things. Need a bit more fuel, also gett'n some cam gears so I can get dialed in just right, get'n some better spark, and just getting it in proper time. I talked to a friend about this and he said chances are it's loading up, getting too much air not enough fuel. So a fuel pressure regulator should help too. Well a little. And wheather it's ohms or volts I did it both ways, it worked both ways, so it doesn't matter!

 

no fighting promise hahha
but the best advise i can give you is to not buy a F.P.R and buy a wahlbro 255lph hp pump and get TUNED there isn't a way of getting around it you have to be running very lean at the moment and the pump will put you on the safe side.... stock fpr will hold pressure at 40 psi which is perfect for your setup. Also a tune up with ngk wires oem ngk plugs for a GSR and new cap and rotor will do the trick no need for expensive msd!

 

not to rain on your parade but you can bolt on all the big airflow parts you want but if you haven't built the head to flow as much air and fuel as your trying to pump through it your just going to lose low end power...and you lose velocity which makes the motor work harder to pump even the normal air/fuel charge through

 

^^^*2 - Yes, pretty much exactly what the two posts above said.