Hi, I've never posted on blogs before and I'm not a car genius, but I love my 01 Prelude SH and I don't know how to resolve a ATTS light issue. Also I am a girl so please be gentle with me. I do know more then an average girl about Hondas, mostly Civic's, I can change axels, suspension, exhaust, alternators, headers somewhat simple stuff in the grand scheme of things. I understand VTec and how it works and why it is so awesome. I had a couple Civic's when I was 16-21, then got a 91 CRX SI and put a 96 EX motor in it with an automatic VTec switch in it, no gafted manual switch like in other's I've seen, and loved that car too, and now I have a Prelude. Just so you know that I'm not as dumb as your average girl or guy for that matter when it comes to my car. I have spent extensive time in garages with my guy friends seeing them change motors, tranny's, handing them parts and tools and joining in when I can contribute. However none of them have a Prelude or know much about ATTS. Here's the deal...

PROBLEM:
My ABS light came on a couple weeks ago, I didn't have time to look at it, and wasn't worried much about it, and also my ATTS light came on after like it always seem to when the car throws any light. I hooked up my Matco code reader and got no codes. A couple days later the ABS light did not come on when starting the car and has not come back since, but the ATTS light stayed on and it has stayed on since. I've read on the web that it seems lots of Prelude boys can get the ATTS codes somehow, I've googled it and searched on this forum and I can't find how to get the codes. Could someone please tell me how to get the ATTS light codes without going to Honda and paying $115 for them to tell me?

I have also read that I could try disconnecting the battery to reset the ATTS light, but I don't want to do that if my car is trying to tell me something, and if I just clear the codes I might not be able to find out if there really is a problem.

My Prelude is totally stock and I love it that way because nobody has ever put their grubby bad mechanic hands on it. I always put Honda parts in it when needed because Honda is great, I even use Honda oil filters, lol. Thanks in advance.

 

Of course after posting I found this link...
Prelude Power
.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312936

I'm really not a total dope I swear!

I'm going to try this when I get home from work and see what I get.

 

Thats super hot that your a girl and know how to do all that. Post what the code is maybe I can help, I have had my light on forever and I have done alot of research. haven't fixed it yet lol but I'm pretty sure I no what the problem is its just a lil expensive to fix.

 

Good chance as you mentioned that the ABS code is what tripped off the ATTS code as well. If the code gets stored for long enough, it will post a constant MIL and you have to reset I would guess the ATTS control unit, not just the ecu (pulling out the 7.5a fuse in the under-hood fuse box and putting it back in is the easiest way to do it); resetting the ecu alone with a code reader may not clear it.

Tunerguy, what issue are you having? Check the for sale thread for a couple of ATTS units listed right now if you need parts - a whole ATTS unit for $200 if that gives you an idea on cost of a unit and parts; it doesn't have to be that expensive to fix.

 

that's sexist

 

Thanks guys I really appreciate the help.

I got a ATTS code of 23,43 and 79. And a ABS code of 17. Ah, I bet you it did store the code and in turn left my ATTS light on. Good to know and thanks for telling me how to clear it too!

ATTS
23: Wheel sensor: LR
43: ECM communication line
79: ATTS control Inhibition

ABS
17: Wheel Sensor LR (Open/short to body ground/short to power)

You know what, I had a seized LR caliper a few weeks ago and put a new one on. I'm not sure what I am looking for, my Civic's and Rex were all 88-95, so ABS and ATTS is all new to me, but I guess I should start by taking that tire off and see what I see...

And Vtec kick just aint the same with ATTS light on. I knew the CEL would cause a "power down" but not the ATTS.

But I did know that someday I would learn to hate OBDII, everybody told me I would hate it, but I didn't listen I wanted the LSD tranny and 2.2 motor in the car that it belongs in. No more monsters for me, I wanted an awesome car with the motor & tranny that was designed to fit in it stock. The car just knows too much of what is going on, it needs to shut up and work!

 

Sorry, haven't been on in a few days. When troubleshooting ATTS codes, always troubleshoot and fix CEL or ABS codes first. The ATTS code 23 is the same as the ABS code 17, which is that left-rear (driver side rear) wheel sensor. ATTS code 79 is a generic code that usually posts when there is another error, so it should go away when you clear the others. Code 43 could be intermittent or could also be a grounding problem, but I wouldn't worry about it yet.

The wheel sensor I believe you can get to if you take the dust shield off (after taking off the brake rotor). From the backside you can see where the line runs to it; make sure the connectors are seated and there is no damage to the sensor.

Did the ABS light come on immediately after working on the caliper or later?

 

I had the ECM (something like that) communication code and left oil pressure code. I have to test it again to get the exact numbers. What I ment by expensive is getting the oil pressure sensor. New there a couple hundred and if I go used how will I know that it works. They seem to be really sensitive cause everywhere I have read people have broken theirs when changing their clutch.

How do you know if its broke can you tell visually? Cause I had my IM off recently and I saw the right sensor and the left and they both "looked" fine but I still have the light.

Its sad too cause I don't even remember what driving with Atts feels like * tear lol

 

I feel you; my right oil pressure sensor has been throwing a code for a few months now. You're right, there is no way to know how long a used sensor will last, so you are certainly better off getting new if you can afford. Cost is obviously a factor for most however, and you can usually pick up a used oil pressure sensor off someone for $50 or less; for me it's worth it to throw it in and see how long it will last.

 

Ya i guess my best bet is double checking my codes, then replacibg my sensor. I have a track day in august i would luv it if i could have it fixed by then. WE'LL see how it goes ill post up any progress thx bro.