Ok well im selling my longblock to my friend & selling tranny seperate..& then getting 96-97 JDM ITR swap is it all plug & play ? Also will i be able to tell the difference from going from GSR to ITR ? One last thing how long do i have to break it in before i take its virginity away ?

 

You have some research/study to do - it's not plug and play. Not impossible, but will require a little investigation and a few decisions.

For example - the ECU? GSR expects EVAP Purge, IAB, CKF, and VTEC oil-switch - none of which will come on the JDM engine. USDM ECU will complain and to some degree won't work until you address these issues.

You can change the ECU, you can bypass some of the missing sensors (keyword: bypass), etc.

See what others have done.

Have fun

 

Ha well in that case ill jst take it to a shop here thats really good with doing that they've done many many swaps with no problems they did my friends & he hasnt had any problems so far (knock on wood) lol

 

Unless your completely rebuilding it or buying it brand new she's already a *****. Sorry buddy.

 

Its brand new but ive heard whenever you buy new motor you have to take it easy for a bit & not jst get on it

 

Wait I'm so confused, pardon my ignorance, let me just clarify: your purchasing a BRAND NEW 96-97 JDM ITR motor? I'm not sure that I believe this is true, and/or I think your being taken for a spin from the seller. You should probably look into that.

Any links/info on the motor?

And to answer your questions, YES, new motors have a small break in period.

 

These are some places ive been looking into http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/pts/2393147406.html

http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/engine...ne-lsd-package


http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30010


http://www.jdmtigerjapanese.com/details.php?id=1701

http://www.zerolift.com/products/hon...spec-full-swap

 

Just as suspected buddy, these motors are USED JDM Motors, there is no break in period as most of them have about 40-50k (sometimes more, but you can never tell EXACTLY how many miles they have)

What happens: Japan has a cap on the amount of miles put on a car and then they're non-op, those motors are then imported to the U.S. for us to swap in our cars.

So w/that being said man, those motors have already been "broken" in so you won't get to devirginize it. However, $luts need love too

Hope this helps man.

 

Very much agreed. I purchased my JDM GSR swap from hmotorsonline which had roughly 35-45k miles on it. I must say I was impressed at how clean and immaculate the whole motor looked considering it was used.

To add on what other people have already said, it's NOT plug and play. Everything drops/bolts on fine, but you won't be able to use the engine harness it comes with. You could, if you extended the wiring which is what we (buddies) did, but it's a pain in the *** and in my opinion not worh it. You're better off just purchasing a used US spec harness or use your current GSR harness.

Also if you haven't noticed, JDM motors don't come with the green oil pressure switch on the vtec solenoid. You'll have to use either your GSR vtec solenoid or find a used one. I don't know if you'll have a problem with the ECU the motor comes with, but I had to run a chipped p28 on mine.

This is probably uselss info if you're having a shop do your swap (which I'm sure they already know). PreyStayShun answered your question, NO you do not have to break/devirginize your motor. Someone has already ****ed her nice and hard bud.

 

Yeah im jst thinking to take it to a shop & let them do the whole swap better have it swapped right the first place then messing crap up & redoing something & or not doing something right ,like me & friends done before on my friends ek hatch when we swap jdm gsr

 

It's plug and play with the JDM ecu. How is everyone saying that it isn't? Before you sell your GSR longblock, be sure to grab the engine harness not unless you have one accessible.

 

I agree with rhymeshark's assessment - if you keep the USDM engine harness (or get one) and use the JDM ECU, you've pretty much eliminated the problems you'd expect from 'differences' mentioned earlier. You'll have a few connectors hanging from the GSR harness - EVAP, IAB, CKF - but so what? And with the JDM ECU the missing VTEC oil pressure sensor isn't a problem either.

So - there you are.

Next question might be, will the JDM ecu cause you any problems with emissions or inspection where you live?

 

Well with the swap im getting everything even ecu & wiring harness but I still have wiring harness hooked up connected.

 

Ok so im getting the 96-97 ITR spec full swap from jdmonline i asked if they cld include the 98 spec 4 to 1 header & they told me they cld include mugen 4 to 1 header for $3650 shipped. So im going that route I already have full exhaust 2. Ill be tuning it on hondata s300 at my local tuner.

But I need some advice me & friend will be doing swap but I was wondering since I still have my obd2 gsr harness if I cld use that? & if theres anything i need to knw before swapping it or tips?

 

there's a few hp to be had over the oem p73 by tuning but why in the world did you spend so much on an s300? you doing a big turbo down the road?

as for what you need to know? if you're going to use a jdm or obd1 ecu not a lot has to change, extend one of the sensor wires on the side of the head.it's only a usdm obd2 p73 ecu that would have me writing out the list of what you need to change

make SURE YOU CHANGE THE TIMING BELT! before you run the car. most of those jdm engines all have the oe belt

 

Im planning on using the p73 ecu which is obd2

 

Couldnt agree with you more my friend.Timing belt and gaskets.Do a full check up on the engine before u place her in ,because it will be a pain in the *** if u get her in and things start leaking and malfunctioning.Of course ur gonna buy some good spark plugs oil filter and etc.But make sure u change the timing belt

 

shld i get oem gaskets or aftermarket?

 

oem gaskets.

 

ok cool what would be preferable to replace besides oil filter,water pump,timing belt?

 

You may want to measure the header length for fitment issues. 96-era GSRs have a different length header / cat length than everything else (go figure). May need a hand from your local muffler shop.

 

http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/engine...ne-lsd-package

Is this where you're getting it from? Hmm, can you break a deal with them for the 98+ spec R($3,900)? You're already spending $3,650, instead of the Mugen header upgrade you want the 98+ spec for the same price with the 96-97 spec Oem header. Personally, I would push for the newer motor since you can have an "OK" replica header for cheap.

Parts I would replace:

All Oem Honda:T-Belt, Tensioner,W-Pump, Axle seals, VTEC Solenoid gasket, T-Stat

Ignition: NGK Bkre-11 Plugs, Wires, Cap and Rotor

Fluids: Honda Oil/Filter, MTF or 5w-30 engine oil. I used it in my personal trannys and it's fine.(I think you need LSD additives. Don't quote me though, I don't have a LSD tranny.) Honda Coolant

Only if these leaks: Dizzy O-Ring, Valve Cover gasket and plug seals, VTEC solenoid

Clutch/Flywheel: If it's low, low miles, why would you change it? But you can.

You're using the GSR harness too. Maybe the USDM VTEC solenoid as well.

If I miss other things, other people can chime in.

A B18CR motor is HOT! Instant HP out the Box. I'm jealous!

 

he'll need a 2.5" cat regardless. really no getting around some type of exhaust work

i personally bought a jdm R engine back in 2008 from jdm engines corp. it's ran great, been trouble free and gets 2-3mpg more on heat range 6 plugs than it does on 7s. as for the burn? 6s are on the hot side and fairly white with a hint of tan. 7s have charcoal/dark tan

it's been a fun engine but like every other stock honda....slow

a turbine is getting strapped to it over the next month or two as i gather all the parts