I recently had a shop do a valve adjustment for me and after reading some DIYs on valve adjustments I dont think they did it correctly and the car still doesn't sound right. For one, I dont think they let the car cool down long enough. I drove about 15 miles to get there so the car was definitely running at normal temp, and it only cooled for maybe an hour probably closer to 45 mins...

I'm having everything checked out by a different shop next week as I need some tranny work too and was wondering what the effects of the probably bad valve adjustment will have and how pressing it is to remedy

 

Depends on how bad it is... Too loose and the valve train will be noisy, too tight and you may have idle issues and premature wear on valve train components.

 

well it sounds like it may still be loose. Mechanic told me 3 valves were real loose that he fixed. Now considering it has to cool for a long time to be ready to adjust, what kind of shop could I go to that would do it right? I'm a novice to engine work and really woulda prefer to start smaller than pulling the valve cover off and messing with everything. The most i've done to an engine was plugs, wires, cap, and rotor to my old Supra.

I live in southwest Washington just North of Portland, Oregon and have been looking for a good shop for a while. I'm almost about to just go to my local Honda dealer but i'm afraid that'd cost WAY too much.

 

x2!

 

i did my own adjustment n no matter how i do it there'll still be chattering noise still,even tho it's a fully rebuilt cylinder head with ori honda parts.

I think as long as clearances are in spec,compression are spread equal,idling fine,VTEC still kicking i shud forget about it...2cents *.*"

 

I did an adjustment for the first time in Jan because there was a knocking sound. The knock was still there after I did the adjustment but V-TEC still works. I may have rod-knock or piston slap. Will check it out in two months. The car is just sitting right now.

 

From what I've been told by the technicians here at work, a little valve tick is suppose to be in the head.

 

im having a similar problem, my valve lash seems to change by itself, probly bad lifters

 

You don't have any lifters FYI. If the lash changes, it's probably that the locknuts are not tightened to spec.

 

as long as your vtec is still kicking huh? lol

many things can result with poorly adjusted lash.
if you think its not correct, just limp the car around until you're next appt. too tight tends to break components while too lose may have more of an effect on your combustion. ie rich lean, backfires etc

 

Buy the tool and feeler gauge and do it yourself. Takes half an hour.

 

I'm more worried about having a rod knock and having to rebuild or get a new engine. I dont really have the money for that, but I have money enough to fix something small if i have anything wrong with it.

 

if you want ur valve lash done correctly, don't sit around and wait for someplace to do it. In the manual it says that the engine components should be less than 100 and something degrees Fahrenheit.

Best bet is to let the car sit all day, or over night and do it on a cold engine. Usually after i adjust my valves i get slight valve ticking when its cold and it gets slightly quieter when it warms up. I've never heard a perfectly quiet running h-series....someone correct me if they have....

 

it should not be perfectly quiet, but it should not be too loud either.

 

I've never heard a perfectly quiet Honda, haha. Our CRV and Prelude are both loud even when the valves are within spec.

 

i know its tightened to spec for sure, at least now. the previous owner's mechanic left the valve lash out loose. real out, like .22. Could running the lash that loose damage the rocker arms? I know too tight and you can eat your cams.

 

The problem with too much gap in you valve adjustment is that the slappling of the spherical adjuster screw to the top of the valve, dishes the valve and flattens the spherical adjuster screw. If you find that setting the proper gap doesnt seem to quiet down the valve train noise, you probably need to look at the adjuster screws and make sure the they are still spherical. if they have flat spots they can be giving you the wrong reading for when you slide the feeler gauge between the valve and adjustment screw. Adjustment screws are fairly cheap (just a couple bucks) and if you find flat spots they should be replaced. If the top of the valves get dished too badly, then a valve job is the only solution to correct the ticking noise under the valve cover.

 

Its not a lexus... It will make noise

 

If the knock remains post valve adjustment and its an H22A (1991-1996 engine) it is most likely the LMAs (lost motion assemblies; they support the movement of the Vtec lobe). They are a lot more work than a valve adjustment to replace unfortunately.

Also, valve adjustments can be very subjective. How you hold the feeler gauge and at what angle can make it "feel" like the clearance is good when its actually still too loose. I did adjust all my valves once only to start the engine and have it sound like a truck with the valves way too loose (was sure in my mind it was good...). Now, to be sure, I will insert the feeler gauge, tighten the lash until I cant move the feeler gauge and then back it off a bit until I am happy with the drag on it. You can also try a larger feeler gauge to see if that fits in as an extra precaution. My stock head makes no slapping sounds once I'm done, cams still look like new after 250k kms so they are not too tight either.

 

my 2 preludes and CR-V are loud as hell. But I got $500 knocked off when I bought the CR-V because of valve train noise

But I would recommend doing it yourself. about $100 in tools and a shop manual and feeler gauges and you can do it for the life of the car and know you did it right. And you'll get a nice sense of satisfaction. Being a mechanic and seeing how most other mechanics operate, I'm very hesitant to let anyone work on my car. And I would have to guess that anyone with a vested interest in their own car would do a more thorough job than a mechanic who just wants to get paid. It is a very doable job for a novice.

 

I do these regularly at work, they all make some noise, especially the DOHC VTEC 4 cylinder engines. Usually only enough to be heard with the hood up standing in front of the car at idle, hood shut you shouldn't hear anything, especially when sitting in the car.

An exhaust leak at the manifold gasket where it meets the head can also sound identical to loose valves. Low oil will also make the valve train sound noisy, it's the furthest thing from the pump and is the first to starve of oil when levels are low.

 

Just go get a valve cover gasket and some feeler gauges. Check the clearance spec with the recommended specs in your manual and adjust if wrong its probobaly a lot easier than you think