Until I put back the OEM fan, 4-5 times I saw the temp went up to 212-215 F degrees.

can anything be damaged u think ?

 

How are you monitoring your temps? EMS/laptop?

 

via laptop (neptune rtp)

 

What do you mean until you "put back the OEM fan"? Are you saying temps don't spike with it on? If not there's your answer.

 

the fan in my car was quite thin and I saw sometimes the ECT went up to 215 degrees.
so I changed the FAN to the OEM one. and the temp problems are gone.(yesterday)

can anything be damaged when the temp went up to 215 degrees ?

 

Why did u take it off, if you had it on working good

what kind of car? Full or half radiator?

 

You keep answering your own question. The slimfan without a shroud does not move sufficient amounts of air through the radiator. Only time will tell if you damaged anything.

 

half radiator..
of course time will show, what what are your comments.
what are the possibilities. is 215 degrees too much to damage anything or not ?

 

How do you not know this?
The possibilities are a warped head/block and failing head gasket. Too many times overheating and you might as well get a new engine.

 

ECT at 212 degrees will not hurt you. I have seen mine at the highest of 215 or so before using Neptune as well. Just set your settings in Neptune to turn on the fan earlier or set a limit so that once you hit a certain degrees it'll limit your car to a certain rpm.

 

that's good.. thank u very much..

 

I had my temps go past 230 but after that time I made sure to use overheat protection so it wouldn't happen again. You'll be fine you didn't do any damage. I had a similar issue with my lsvtec and a slim fan.

 

My question is, why does your temp get that high in the first place ? I drove my car I'm guessing around for months with a broken fan, car never overheated once

 

I had a similar issue recently when I replaced my leaky OEM radiator with an all aluminum one that came with a slim fan. Temperature would spike when I let off the gas or got off the freeway and came to a stop. Thought it was because the fan wasn't coming on (stock one never did, new fan still won't, think it's a bad fan switch, fan turns on if I jump the two wires connected to the fan.), but it turns out it was due to having a bad thermostat. The timing was just perfect that the symptoms started when I replaced the radiator and fan. Ever since I put in a new thermostat that opens at 170 degrees, I've had absolutely no issues. It's a cheap $10 fix that couldn't hurt if it doesn't end up being the problem.

I never did try the OEM fan. When you shut off your car, feel the top and bottom hoses. If one is significantly cooler than the other, the thermostat isn't opening.

 

This is LS/VTEC with a ramhorn manifold and GT3071R turbo..

I had the same : I live in an area with 4 seasons of sun.. Antalya, Turkey.

I somehow fitted the OEM fan and all the problems went away.. The oem fan with the original shroud really pulls the air best..

 

The one thing I never understood, oem shrouded fan pulls more air than a slimfan. My slimfan pulls way more air than my stock shouded fan

 

It all depends on the CFM of the fan. Not all slimfans are made equal. And the shroud makes all the difference. If you run a slimfan run onw with higher CFM andrun a shroud.

 

I don't understand the shroud, how does it helps pull more air?
I guess I have a high cfm slimfan

 

The best way I can describe it is the "suction' of the shroud pulls air over more of the radiator surface than just that little 12 diameter circle the fan sits on. That's why the OEM fan works so well at a lower CFM.