Need ideas on how to build my b16 (maybe ls??)
So I have a 98 civic coupe with a b16a gen 2 (170hp) swap p28 ecu chrome chipped
mods right now are, intake, headers, exhaust, type r cams + tune
the car is quick...but not quick enough
i keep reading that the b16 is a super great engine and all, but when it comes to modifying it, it might be better to look elsewhere. no tq and too high compression for boost
so i was thinking, well since i already have a b16 swap. to put an ls block, and use my current b16 head + transmission
this way i can make better power NA and//or easier for boost (correct me if im wrong please)
is this a good idea? are the most expensive stuff already paid for? (head and transmission?) to be honest, i will probably have a shop do it, but im wondering how deep in my pockets i would have to look. or should i just keep it as is and get a supercharger or something??
thanks
mods right now are, intake, headers, exhaust, type r cams + tune
the car is quick...but not quick enough
i keep reading that the b16 is a super great engine and all, but when it comes to modifying it, it might be better to look elsewhere. no tq and too high compression for boost
so i was thinking, well since i already have a b16 swap. to put an ls block, and use my current b16 head + transmission
this way i can make better power NA and//or easier for boost (correct me if im wrong please)
is this a good idea? are the most expensive stuff already paid for? (head and transmission?) to be honest, i will probably have a shop do it, but im wondering how deep in my pockets i would have to look. or should i just keep it as is and get a supercharger or something??
thanks
so i called a local shop that specializes in modifying only hondas and acuras and he suggested rather than put an ls, put a b20. said cost of the block is the same, + some lower comp pistons and arp studs and it will be good for 300whp when i am ready to turbo
i asked since boost will only come later this yr (hopefully) how would this swap compare to my current set up na for na and he said "it is night and day, you will be driving around town and wont even look for the vtec sometimes because of the power"
can anyone confirm all of this?
as is right now i run 15 flat on the 1/4 mile with a 2.4-2.5 60 foot @ 92-93mph
this is on shitty no name tires, big 17 inch rims, full interior. 98 civic coupe
na for na b20 will be a lot faster??
i asked since boost will only come later this yr (hopefully) how would this swap compare to my current set up na for na and he said "it is night and day, you will be driving around town and wont even look for the vtec sometimes because of the power"
can anyone confirm all of this?
as is right now i run 15 flat on the 1/4 mile with a 2.4-2.5 60 foot @ 92-93mph
this is on shitty no name tires, big 17 inch rims, full interior. 98 civic coupe
na for na b20 will be a lot faster??
get different rims and tires! Work Meister CR 01 3-Piece Wheel 15x8.0 4x100, with some nitto NT01's and your 60 foot time will be alot better. as for motor, B20 is going to give you more trq then a B16, and if you do wanna go turbo eventually I'd say it's a good choice. if you wanted to do a cam that's good for NA and turbo I'd go with a skunk2 Pro+1. to answer your question more directly though, it won't be "alot" faster, it will be a noticeable different. but it really depends on your definition of "alot"
Last edited by SJC; Jun 18, 2011 at 06:25 PM.
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night and day for all motor? yeah... and you will be a low 14 second car... now for boost? dont do it unless you sleeve the block...
with type r cams and higher comp. pistons... you will be around 200whp tunes with good bolt ons
with type r cams and higher comp. pistons... you will be around 200whp tunes with good bolt ons
wtf what? i don't think his 17's are exactly the best choice for running a 1/4 mile in. was giving a suggestion, so don't wtf me! haha
i read on another forum the stock sleeves are good for 350whp.
and will i lose a lot of NA power by running lower comp pistons (pre-boost) because i would like this swap to get done within the next month but boost wont come until maybe next spring, unless i budget myself better than i do now =[
2.4 60 foot time isn't good. 17's aren't grate for drag racing, 17's aren't good on a hatch any way you look at it, a nice 15 would be cleaner and put more rubber down. when he turbo's it 17's will light up on the track, a 15, with a good tire will be alot better.
well boosting in on my 100% sure list *eventually* at some point and considering the shop will have the block in their hands to replace at least the pistons...., is sleeving an expensive thing to do?
i read on another forum the stock sleeves are good for 350whp.
and will i lose a lot of NA power by running lower comp pistons (pre-boost) because i would like this swap to get done within the next month but boost wont come until maybe next spring, unless i budget myself better than i do now =[
i read on another forum the stock sleeves are good for 350whp.
and will i lose a lot of NA power by running lower comp pistons (pre-boost) because i would like this swap to get done within the next month but boost wont come until maybe next spring, unless i budget myself better than i do now =[
so na is better to go b20 and boost go ls? i would like 300whp....is the ls block a safer bet??
... LS block all day. b20 is for na mostly... get forged bottom end and just hone the ls sleeves... just do a hone stay at 81mmif possible. you can do around 15psi.... and if you build the head you will be close to 400whp. not off by much... IMO 15psi is the MOST I would do on a ls stock sleeve.
15 psi on what turbo?
Everything else being equal, a b20 will make more than a b18.
I still think a b20 is a better choice, both for na and turbo.
Both have been pushed to 300 whp with stock intrrnals and on pump gas.
Everything else being equal, a b20 will make more than a b18.
I still think a b20 is a better choice, both for na and turbo.
Both have been pushed to 300 whp with stock intrrnals and on pump gas.
damn just when i thought i had made up my mind and came to this thread to thank everyone for their help, pyro comes along and messes me all up lol
my biggest dilema is driving with pre-boost lower comp pistons and losing power (and the fact that everyone makes it seem like b20 cylinder walls are made of tin foil). because turbo is still a way's to go and i would still like to track the car. and i didnt want to have to remove the block twice to work on internals
i was thinking to just make an all motor b20VTEC for now, and when I have the money to *properly* build the block (sleeves, rods, pistons etc, rather than just pistons) and have money for the turbo aswell, do everything one shot. yes it will be a lot longer than i originally wanted, but atleast i will have a really peppy b20v to hold me over
thoughts?
my biggest dilema is driving with pre-boost lower comp pistons and losing power (and the fact that everyone makes it seem like b20 cylinder walls are made of tin foil). because turbo is still a way's to go and i would still like to track the car. and i didnt want to have to remove the block twice to work on internals
i was thinking to just make an all motor b20VTEC for now, and when I have the money to *properly* build the block (sleeves, rods, pistons etc, rather than just pistons) and have money for the turbo aswell, do everything one shot. yes it will be a lot longer than i originally wanted, but atleast i will have a really peppy b20v to hold me over
thoughts?
I built a B20VTEC last year and I fell in love with it. My setup was 84.5MM, Ross (9.0-1), Eagle rods, P&P B16 Head and ITR cams. Without boost it felt much happier throughout the RPM range than my near stock Gs-R motor. I suggest building a larger displacment bottom end. There's no replacement for displacment (Basically B20's poop on torqless B16's).
put it this way. you can safely bore a ls/gsr/type r block to 82mm for all motor. honda recommends that once a b20 block needs to be bored, to just throw it away... he is right on no replacement for displacement but if I was you and was to boost it... I would do your plan... do all motor for now nd when you have the money do it right. DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE.
I built a B20VTEC last year and I fell in love with it. My setup was 84.5MM, Ross (9.0-1), Eagle rods, P&P B16 Head and ITR cams. Without boost it felt much happier throughout the RPM range than my near stock Gs-R motor. I suggest building a larger displacment bottom end. There's no replacement for displacment (Basically B20's poop on torqless B16's).
read that b20's cant do 7k+.....
finally decided that i will go b20vtec na for about 200whp
and build my b16 block at home for boost at my own pace
thank you everyone for the informative posts
and build my b16 block at home for boost at my own pace
thank you everyone for the informative posts
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