S300 P28 burns up on the way home. Looking for input and/or reasons why
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From: 'Round Here, SC
Well, on my way home from class today I had the S300 P28 in my DB go up in smoke. I turn to you ECU guys for input.
Wondering what it is exactly that smoked (proper name), for what reason it is in the ECU, possible causes of the incident, possible things I need to check into before I put it back on the road with another ECU. Also, thoughts on if you guys think it burned up in that one spot or possibly got my S300 as well.
Nothing was abnormal about the ride home. Cruising around 30mph, CEL, jumpy tach, car shuts off and smells like electrical burning. ECU was filled with smoke but no plugs, wires, etc leading to the ECU were/are melted/burnt/bare/touching metal etc.
Your input/advice is greatly appreciated. If there needs to be more detailed pics, please let me know.



Back of board along with rear ECU cover

And my ride to the house
Wondering what it is exactly that smoked (proper name), for what reason it is in the ECU, possible causes of the incident, possible things I need to check into before I put it back on the road with another ECU. Also, thoughts on if you guys think it burned up in that one spot or possibly got my S300 as well.
Nothing was abnormal about the ride home. Cruising around 30mph, CEL, jumpy tach, car shuts off and smells like electrical burning. ECU was filled with smoke but no plugs, wires, etc leading to the ECU were/are melted/burnt/bare/touching metal etc.
Your input/advice is greatly appreciated. If there needs to be more detailed pics, please let me know.



Back of board along with rear ECU cover

And my ride to the house

That is a capacitor in location C14, it is a well documented issue with OBD1 ECU's. They will leak and cause the circuit to short and burn. Whoever chipped that ECU should have replaced that capacitor at the same time. However there are some that still do not replace them. The stock capacitor has a specified lifespan of 2000-5000 hrs. Where these ECU's are getting up there in age, 15-19 years, some of them are starting to go past their operational hour limits.
Yours looks as though it may be repairable. Would have to see what the copper trace looks like under the cap to know for sure though.
Yours looks as though it may be repairable. Would have to see what the copper trace looks like under the cap to know for sure though.
As mentioned above, caps fail after time.
For the past couple of years it has become standard procedure to install a new C14 capacitor with a hondata s300 system. The new c14 capacitor comes with the s300 kit.
We install new c14 caps in all of our standard chipped ecus along with hondata/neptune system ecus.
You likely will need to replace your ecu.
The s300 module will likely still function without any issues.
We along with several vendors on the forum sell s300 prepped ecus.
Make sure you order one with pwm components in it if you are using pwm boost control.
For the past couple of years it has become standard procedure to install a new C14 capacitor with a hondata s300 system. The new c14 capacitor comes with the s300 kit.
We install new c14 caps in all of our standard chipped ecus along with hondata/neptune system ecus.
You likely will need to replace your ecu.
The s300 module will likely still function without any issues.
We along with several vendors on the forum sell s300 prepped ecus.
Make sure you order one with pwm components in it if you are using pwm boost control.
Thread Starter
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From: 'Round Here, SC
Sounds interesting guys. Thanks for the input thus far. Want to hear the kicker to all of what you said? Its an ECU w/ a Hondata sticker on the side as in was purchased from Hondata w/ s300 package. Guess they let this one ride?
I figured I would need a new P28 just was not sure about the s300. I know about the pwn components as it has been running on my DB for 8 months w/ boost by gear.
If one were to purchase a new P28, how much would it cost me to chip for my current s300 along with removing correct resistors to datalog/have ecu read off my AEM windeband instead of the stock O2?
Thanks again guys!
I figured I would need a new P28 just was not sure about the s300. I know about the pwn components as it has been running on my DB for 8 months w/ boost by gear.
If one were to purchase a new P28, how much would it cost me to chip for my current s300 along with removing correct resistors to datalog/have ecu read off my AEM windeband instead of the stock O2?
Thanks again guys!
Sounds interesting guys. Thanks for the input thus far. Want to hear the kicker to all of what you said? Its an ECU w/ a Hondata sticker on the side as in was purchased from Hondata w/ s300 package. Guess they let this one ride?
I figured I would need a new P28 just was not sure about the s300. I know about the pwn components as it has been running on my DB for 8 months w/ boost by gear.
If one were to purchase a new P28, how much would it cost me to chip for my current s300 along with removing correct resistors to datalog/have ecu read off my AEM windeband instead of the stock O2?
Thanks again guys!
I figured I would need a new P28 just was not sure about the s300. I know about the pwn components as it has been running on my DB for 8 months w/ boost by gear.
If one were to purchase a new P28, how much would it cost me to chip for my current s300 along with removing correct resistors to datalog/have ecu read off my AEM windeband instead of the stock O2?
Thanks again guys!
If you need pricing on a replacement ecu, contact us (see my signature).
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
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From: 'Round Here, SC
I appreciate your offer but I feel that I could find one local for less than you guys. No offense just know thats the case. PM me a price for chipping for s300 along with proper setup to utilize datalogging/reading of AEM wideband instead of OEM O2.
I have seen people mail us ecus to be chipped or prepped for an s300 system they bought from their local forums & the ecu ends up being bad & costing the customer more money etc.
Just my 2 cents.
Pricing on ecu chipping/s300 preparation can be found on our website:
http://www.phearable.net/services.html
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You can most likely fix that ECU. It is hard to say without removing it first. Normal charge for that is like $30-40, if you have a local electronics repair shop around you, they can fix it. It just means how burnt it is.
You may want to replace the other caps in the ECU, when that one goes, the others maybe going too.
You may want to replace the other caps in the ECU, when that one goes, the others maybe going too.
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