5th Gen Clutch Goes Down, But Doesn't Come Back
no, not until most of the air in the system is gone. while cycling the pedal by hand to distribute and fill the lines with fluid the pedal will start to return on it's own. that's how you know you're close to being done filling/bleeding.
Then i moved up the hard line to the next connection which is a flared line. Opened that up until solid fluid came out.
Other than that, there is the 17mm banjo bolt coming off the top of the trans. I did the same thing here.
Where else am I supposed to bleed?
You're suppose to keep bleeding at the slave cyl til the pedal is solid; don't hop around opening up lines and bolts. You're just gonna get more air in than before. It takes awhile on these Accords. Not like Civics/Tegs. Just keep bleeding it at the slave. Have someone pump the clutch pedal by hand while you open and closes the slave cyl bleeder bolt.
This is a MUCH easier method of bleeding.
Get a vacuum hose that's about 5 feet long. Attach one end of the hose to your bleeder valve and shove the other end of the hose into your clutch master cylinder.
Open the bleeder valve and pump the clutch pedal a couple times until the fluid level goes down. Once the level is down, add more fluid and keep repeating this until the fluid doesn't go down any further.
When the air is all gone, the fluid level will remain the same regardless of how many times you pump the pedal.
The entire system + the amount of fluid in your 5 foot hose shouldn't be more than half a liter. If it's taking more than that, I would suspect a leak in the system somewhere.
Get a vacuum hose that's about 5 feet long. Attach one end of the hose to your bleeder valve and shove the other end of the hose into your clutch master cylinder.
Open the bleeder valve and pump the clutch pedal a couple times until the fluid level goes down. Once the level is down, add more fluid and keep repeating this until the fluid doesn't go down any further.
When the air is all gone, the fluid level will remain the same regardless of how many times you pump the pedal.
The entire system + the amount of fluid in your 5 foot hose shouldn't be more than half a liter. If it's taking more than that, I would suspect a leak in the system somewhere.
This is a MUCH easier method of bleeding.
Get a vacuum hose that's about 5 feet long. Attach one end of the hose to your bleeder valve and shove the other end of the hose into your clutch master cylinder.
Open the bleeder valve and pump the clutch pedal a couple times until the fluid level goes down. Once the level is down, add more fluid and keep repeating this until the fluid doesn't go down any further.
When the air is all gone, the fluid level will remain the same regardless of how many times you pump the pedal.
The entire system + the amount of fluid in your 5 foot hose shouldn't be more than half a liter. If it's taking more than that, I would suspect a leak in the system somewhere.
Get a vacuum hose that's about 5 feet long. Attach one end of the hose to your bleeder valve and shove the other end of the hose into your clutch master cylinder.
Open the bleeder valve and pump the clutch pedal a couple times until the fluid level goes down. Once the level is down, add more fluid and keep repeating this until the fluid doesn't go down any further.
When the air is all gone, the fluid level will remain the same regardless of how many times you pump the pedal.
The entire system + the amount of fluid in your 5 foot hose shouldn't be more than half a liter. If it's taking more than that, I would suspect a leak in the system somewhere.
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This is a MUCH easier method of bleeding.
Get a vacuum hose that's about 5 feet long. Attach one end of the hose to your bleeder valve and shove the other end of the hose into your clutch master cylinder.
Open the bleeder valve and pump the clutch pedal a couple times until the fluid level goes down. Once the level is down, add more fluid and keep repeating this until the fluid doesn't go down any further.
When the air is all gone, the fluid level will remain the same regardless of how many times you pump the pedal.
The entire system + the amount of fluid in your 5 foot hose shouldn't be more than half a liter. If it's taking more than that, I would suspect a leak in the system somewhere.
Get a vacuum hose that's about 5 feet long. Attach one end of the hose to your bleeder valve and shove the other end of the hose into your clutch master cylinder.
Open the bleeder valve and pump the clutch pedal a couple times until the fluid level goes down. Once the level is down, add more fluid and keep repeating this until the fluid doesn't go down any further.
When the air is all gone, the fluid level will remain the same regardless of how many times you pump the pedal.
The entire system + the amount of fluid in your 5 foot hose shouldn't be more than half a liter. If it's taking more than that, I would suspect a leak in the system somewhere.
Cool man, thanks. And yes, I left the valve open the entire time. I only closed it when no more air came out, and closed it during a solid stream.
The nice thing about submerging the exit end of the hose in brake fluid is that you don't need to close the line every time you let the pedal up. Let the pedal up slowly and the clutch master piston will draw fluid in from the resevoir before pulling fluid up from the hose.
The nice thing about submerging the exit end of the hose in brake fluid is that you don't need to close the line every time you let the pedal up. Let the pedal up slowly and the clutch master piston will draw fluid in from the resevoir before pulling fluid up from the hose.
I had to manually pull the pedal back from floor several times before it started to pop back on its own. I believe this to be because too much air is in the system. Did you replace the slave cylinder, mine has failed twice. I would still suggest to use the procedure from the manual. I know it works. I have not tried the other 2 methods that were recommended so I cannot confirm if they work.
I had to manually pull the pedal back from floor several times before it started to pop back on its own. I believe this to be because too much air is in the system. Did you replace the slave cylinder, mine has failed twice. I would still suggest to use the procedure from the manual. I know it works. I have not tried the other 2 methods that were recommended so I cannot confirm if they work.
The slave cylinder was working when I removed the old motor, no reason why it would be faulty now.
Also, maybe a dumb question; do the tie rod ends face downward or upward when installing into the wheel assembly?
If you're bleeding with the valve open the entire time, you have to pull the pedal up by hand. If bleeding the messy way by opening/closing the valve, then you should have to manually pull the pedal up the first couple times and then hydraulic pressure will gradually push it back up for you.
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