hey guys i did a b16 si swap into my 90 civic hatch and when we put it together the fuel pressure regulator on the b16 wasnt facing the right way and didnt seem to be right so we searched and the only one that seemed to fit and face the right way was one out of a h22 so now the car is running super rich and i have no idea what i can do to fix it... someone pls help

 

Adjustable FPR

 

ok so another problem im having is the vtec will not work? theres no signal to the solenoid what should i check first? i cant check the engine codes because my buddy didnt wire them up when he re-wired everything so idk where to begin? thanks in advance

 

Why would he have to rewire the check engine light plug? Is it obd0 or obd1? What exactly was rewired??

 

It's obd1 I'm not sure what he did but he re wired everything going to the ecu the computer Is not a p28 but has a chip wired internally that makes it a p28. So I'm not exactly sure what to do

 

I guess he wires everything in besides the engine light stuff and the crankshaft position sensor cause the ecu doesn't need that info I guess

 

WTF?

 

The ECU is not the one that uses the Check Light info, YOU ARE!! Tell whomever to wire the car up proper before anything.

 

What's with the WTF??? And I'm pretty sure the computer is the one that outputs the info...

 

I dont understand how you can feel like the fuel reg is backwards and why would you think you need one from a H22.. Thats madness..

 

I'm not the one who thought that. But I did get it fixed so it's fine now. Now I just need the vtec to work

 

I haven't beard of an obd1 ecu that doesn't look for a ckp (crank) sensor.

 

Didnt you say its running super rich?

 

The computer takes input from the various sensors on the motor. If a reading is off for whatever reason, it triggers the Check Engine Light. So the ECU uses the Check Engine Light as output, to give the driver input/feedback. Without the check light, how else are you gonna know when something goes wrong? Get it fixed.

 

ok so i found out today that vtec is engaged all the time?? how is this possible??

 

who ever rewired your car didnt know what they were doing?

 

thats wild son

 

start by re-checking the wiring or the vtec engagement may be set stupid low

 

We rechecked the wiring and it's all right but it shows voltage to the sensor even when the cars not running?

 

Then the wiring is not "all right"

 

It's when u get to this point that I say, time to start over from scratch.

 

Well couldn't there be a different problem like a sensor not working or a switch stuck open or closed?

 

check the wiring. or replace the sensor.

 

Man.
This thread is fail.

Sounds like you have a P06 or some other non-vtec ECU, that has been converted to P28 spec.
This is totally normal and you should pretty much consider it a P28 now.

I'm reading that you no longer have the service connector that you put a jumper in to retrieve codes from the ECU. (Or maybe you are saying that the ECU doesn't have the LED window on it like the OBD0 ECU did. OBD1 doesn't have LED windows).

Ground the pin for the service check signal.
It's D4
http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/wiring.obd1.htm
Then turn your ignition to 'ON' (not start).
Your CEL should start blinking out the codes.

I don't think you have vtec engaged all the time.
If it was, then everything from idle RPM (assuming you could even get it started) to about 4800 would bog like mad.

To get vtec all the time you would have to hard wire power to the vtec solenoid. That would be flat out incredible if you have it wired like that.

The ECU will not send a signal to activate vtec unless RPM, oil pressure, engine temp, and vehicle speed check out fine.
(You can not rev the engine in the driveway and get vtec to activate so don't bother trying to check for it that way.)
So basically you NEED to clear your CEL issues before trying to get vtec.
It may solve itself when you fix your other problems.

 

so even without the connector you plug a scan tool into not connected i can still check codes??