I really need help with this idle problem cuz I have to do emissions by aug.

This is a video of the idle my civic eg is having. The motor is a D16a6 block with z6 head eagle rods vitara pistons. There's only 7000 miles on the motor so far. I have replaced the autozone intake manifold gasket with a brand new hondata intake gasket also replaced the throttle body gasket. I'm running a y8 intake manifold with a b18a1 throttle body. I have also cleaned the IACV and there is no FITV, so that wouldn't cause the prob. I've run the car fine with my 1st d16 with no FITV. Any help would be grateful.


Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsxxk...embedded#at=11

 

i have also redone timing. the throttle body is off a b18a1 so there's not fitv on the bottom or map on the top of the throttle body. im pretty clueless with this motor....i had to swap the head about 3000 mile in cuz 1 of the valves was sticking and its done this ever since. i also tested the iacv sensor with a neg/positive source and it makes a thung type of sound but im not positive its closing all the way.

 

Did the Y8 IM come from a 99-00 Civic, which has the FIA system?

Did you bleed the cooling system?

 

that y8 intake came off a 96-98 motor and i'm not too positive if i'm bleeding the system correct. 1st i let the car warm up to normal temp, then i open the little bleeder bolt on the water neck on the front of the head, then close it after a little bit. not to positive if there's tiny bubbles in it, but then i close it up and that's all.

 

Any CEL codes?

Have you tested the 2-wire ECT sensor?

Have you tested the TPS sensor?

Did you try adjusting the idle speed?
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Bleeding the cooling system may take 20-30 minutes:

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below (hint: the bleed bolt is located where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine):

 

Any CEL codes? i only get vtec spool valve code but it dont always show up

Have you tested the 2-wire ECT sensor? i have not teste the sensor

Have you tested the TPS sensor? i have set the tps to spec already

Did you try adjusting the idle speed? i have tried adjusting the idle speed

thanks for the info on bleeding the coolant and ill check into the ect sensor

 

im not to positive the fan is turning on.. any 1 have a rough idea of how long it should take for the rad fan to kick on

 

so i replaced the iacv and fuel injectors also replaced the coolant sensor on the head tomorrow when i get off work im replacing the coolant sensor on the thermo-housing im starting to wonder if my rad fan is kicking on ill re try to bleed the system again too

 

think im making progress with my car lastnight i disconnected my battery to reset the computer while i was working cuz i installed a different coolant sensor on the head and guess what....when i went to fire the car up this morning and it started idling at 2k steady but after warm up the idle started acting up i think of i bleed the system and maybe retard the ign it will idle fine

 

so car is still having the idle problem ive replaced all the head sensor ect today i went to swap the tps and map plugs when i did that it idled perfect but when id hit the gas the car would just wanna die so i swapped the plugs back and kept the tps plug disconnected and it started idling at 2500 steady drives fine so guess im gonna rock it like that till my next check so i can get a new tps also the car smokes with out the tps plugged in

 

Did you check to see what the code was? My Civic did the same thing, and I kept getting a Crank Angle code at idle. This was after I snapped a timing belt and had an independent shop do the work.

When I pulled the engine for a SCCA E Prepared build, I noticed that the shop had put the cam timing one tooth off, and advanced the ignition timing to cover it up. It ran great, except at idle. I also had a really faint ticking sound from the valves, just kissing the pistons, but I didn't hear ony in the video.

I'm only suggesting this because of the swapped head......

 

the code i get is 21 VTEC Solenoid Valve defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve
* invalid code for non-VTEC engine
** invalid for V6 engine

which is cuz low oil from my cam seal. ill check the timing out again but im pretty sure its good but idk..would a tuner possibly be able to fix the problem? if so then im just gonna take it to a local tuning shop and see what they say cuz i really dont wanna take it into honda even though im sure they could for sure fix it anyways im gonna order a new tps and see what that does and look into my fan situation cuz i sat and watched the fan for like 20-30 minutes and it never kicked on even after swapping sensor's i know the fan works cuz i recently had it hooked up to a toggle switch

 

thanks for the suggestions so far i dont know what will fix this problem any more gonna swap the head if that dont help the cars going off a cliff or getting sold i cant dump any more $ into this pos if its not gonna be realiable for my family

 

Try bleeding the coolant... happened to me...