hey guys im currently running a jdm b20b bottom end with a b18c1 head in my 00 gsr. I was wondering if anyone knew what work needs to be done to achieve being able to push my b20b past 7000rpm without chances of throwing rods. From what ive heard b20b's do not take kindly to being pushed past 7000rpm on a regular basis and i have heard of just replacing the stock rod bolts with arp ones. Is that all i would need to do? or is there more?

Any help is appreiciated. Thanks

 

providing you have done all the necessary stuff for a reliable B20 VTEC build, then ARP bolts + a good tune and 8200rpm shouldnt be a problem. However, no point revving higher if you arent producing any power in those higher ranges (highly unlikely but has happened due to dodgey builds) Only bad thing is B20 have weak sleeves, but that *shouldn't* be a problem unless you are going to turbo or revving at 10K+

 

x2 ^^^^

B20 vtec's can easily rev up to 8200 no problem, even with a completely stock block. But, i wouldnt take it any higher than that unless you plan on building the block. Just make sure your car has a good tune like mr munro said above so its running correctly, and that your block is healthy.

 

alright thanks guys, to be on the safe side im gonna throw some arp rod bolts in, cuz from time to time i tap rev-limit (not on purpose). From what ive seen personally b20b sleeves can be pretty solid, my one friend is running a low comp built b20b vtec set up with a gt35 turbo/1000cc injectors and he hasnt had any issues yet with stock sleeves

 

I had a B20B with a Gsr head before. All I had was a COMPLETELY stock bottom end with a ITR Tranny,Whale Dick Intake, DC Sport 4-1 ( you gotta have a 4-1 header, makes it sound like a subaru ) Full Mugen Exhaust, and a decent tune. Tune was 2 step at 4200 vtec at 5500,check engine light pop on at 7800 and redline at 8400. Took it to the tracks and ran 13.4- 13.9's all day.

 

ayang: i got a blown ring on my 2000gs-r and am was thinking of dropping a b20 block instead of rebuilding mine. i know i would have to go odb1 but what did you do about your intake butterflies? are you running the stock intake manifold?

 

I just ran my stock GSR intake manifold. Doesn't really make much of a difference.

 

so u bypassed the vacuum to keep them always open? what kind of mpg u get on that setup?

 

Just buy a skunk 2 IM and tune it...you will lose a little bit of low end torque but you will make noticeable gains in mid to high range, which is where VTEC makes all its power anyways

 

i think mr. munro is giving advise with no little experience.

plain stock bottom end b20 with stock head. you dont need any other garbage but things to make the b20/vtec i.e. vtec oil line. use everything stock and dont bother with the arp rod bolt or intake manifold. find a great tuner and make sure you stick with hondata s100. no need for other fancy parts. you should be able to reach 170+ hp and 127+ lbs at a roller dynojet. your peak hp should be somewhere around 8100-8300 rpm. you can daily this with no problem assuming you always maintain your car. i do have the b20/vtec but with the complete itr head. i dont make the hp as i mention above but thats another story.

stick with the basic and you wont have any problem. use the rule of 50 bucks per hp. if your gonna spend lets say 200 bucks and not make 4 hp i say spent the money somewhere else. i have put over 10 track days in a year and a half including driving to track and home. revving to 8k sometimes 9k and never come across the issue of what you claim. but then again alot of people always claim they read or heard it somewhere.

Your builder, tuner, and owner are the 3 factor in a strong motor. the rest are bs from read and heard.

 

The MPG I get isnt too bad. Its probably around 18city and 27 freeway. Only thing that sucks is that when im at 65mpg im already at 4500k rpms. Another 1k and ill be at my vtec ripping *** on the freeway.

 

Tell that to the other posters in this topic that seem to be agreeing with me...

What is wrong with spending 50-100 dollars for piece of mind on the rod bolts? And in regard to the IM, i said it just incase the OP purchased a head alone which more than likely wouldnt have come with an IM, so you aswell buy a new aftermarket single stage one....

 

Just on a side note...a stock gsr intake manifold with the secondaries completely removed will out perform just about any aftermarket intake up to about 7200rpm's. Just something to think about.

 

make sure you have a main girdle, as that is one of the essential pieces of the puzzle to high revving motors