Link to video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0cBmuYCMaQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pibrah3bPw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvxzcxuVOlY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2GjAP945bg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdM4hyGaP1s


Ok so I thought I had it narrowed down to a bad ground.

I can hook up a set of good jumper cables to car and its starts and runs fine until I remove the cable unless I have rpms up. Cheap set of cables and it starts but dies withing half second. No cels at all.

I am thinking dead cell in battery or bad alternator.

Any ideas?

New battery, Alternator belt and alternator checks out fine. No clue. It ran great and when battery went dead that was it. Wire from batt to alt is hot. No cels... grounds all good. Car turns over fine. I am lost.

Now autozone and local alt rebuild shop say alt test fine. I have this black and decker charger that says alt is bad.....Ugh!!

 

Start by having the battery tested.

 

Well gotta new battery. Car starts but acts crazy. If I can get it to stay running it drives fine and has pleanty of power. But if I shut it off and restart it it might act crazy again. Then I can drive it sometimes and no power then I can turn on headlights or fan and it runs fine. Or hit the hazard lights and the power will kick in and out with the blinking of be flashers. Now I am thinking voltage regulator.

Input ???

 

get the alternator tested or you can do it yourself if you have a multimeter its very simple!

 

Ok how so... ? I have a multi meter but not slot of experience using it.

 

once you get it running check the voltage at the battery it should be 14- 15 volts then turn the headlights on, voltage should drop then come back up if its working properly.

 

Set the multimeter to measure DC volts. Measure voltage across the battery posts with (1) the engine off, (2) the engine idling with no electrical load, and (3) the engine idling with high electrical load (high beams, rear window defogger, and A/C max on). Post those three voltages.

 

Ok will get those in the next couple days.
I bought a brand new battery today. It started up and I was able to get the info I posted. Went out to start again and now it's back to firing and not starting. Grrr .. Lol
Thanks. Back in a couple days with the readings.

 

Ok had alternator tested today and was told bad diode. $40.00 bucks later it starts but sluggish almost wont rev. Loosen the belt to the point its slipping and it runs like a raped ape but wont charge.

New battery and rebuilt alternator......Dunno

 

New battery, Alternator belt and alternator checks out fine. No clue. It ran great and when battery went dead that was it. Wire from batt to alt is hot. No cels... grounds all good. Car turns over fine. I am lost.

 

Do the voltage tests I suggested.

Temp or voltage hot?

 

No clue!!!!

 

Voltage...sorry

 

Voltage tests?

 

I cant get it to run to get any....Battery is fully charged and new.

 

Can't help you if you are unwilling to do some troubleshooting.

 

More than willing. But I thought you were asking for voltage at the alternator.

Only one of your test required the car not running and since the battery is new and doing the same thing as before with jumper cables....I didnt see where testing the voltage there would matter at this point. It wont start with new battery and a booster on it to boot.

 

Vids added at the top

 

Bump....

 

You may not see the value in completing these tests as asked but there is a rhyme and reason for it. If you refuse to do them I don't think you'll get anyone more knowledgeable than Ron to help you out.

 

Not trying to be funny....And please correct me if I am wrong but the car has to be running to get the info requested....

 

Is there some weird wiring issue? Like an alarm or kill switch? Also it seems you are able to get it running with the headlights on so the tests can be done then. Or does the car no longer start period?

 

Its def electrical...I see no issues with wires.

It starts when it feels like it. lol.

It wont rev up at all. Give it gas and it will die.

I will go try and get reading at idle....But I can not get a reading without headlights or interior blower running. It wont run without some kinda electrical current drawing.

 

Posting some vids in a moment up top.

 

Bump