Alright so i have been browsing the threads that have to do with this problem and i have still yet to find my problem.

basic rundown- cool start up of car allows ac compressor and clutch to be engaged and will blow extremely cold air for 10 to 15 at least. if i hit the ac button to shut off ac and then try to turn it back on compressor clutch is not spinning. i can engage the clutch by jumpering the (low i believe) pressure switch plug. i have also swapped the relays for the compressor and fan w each other and the condensor fan has worked on both relays.

im still fuzzy on what may be wrong, maybe clutch shim or low pressure switch??
my pressures were reading 30 on the low and 180 ish on the high with the car running at idle and full ac on when it was blowing cold

please help summer in florida is hot

 

Does the condenser fan run when the A/C is on?

 

yes the condeser fan does run wen the ac is on.

 

after driving around town td it blew cold for about 20 minutes then started blowing hot air for the rest of the time it blew hot air so i left the car running to get out and the compressor clutch was not engaged and both ac lines were warm not one that was cold and one hot both same temp w ac running. turn car off went in the store for about ten minutes came out got in the car drove home and it was still hot air.

 

Measure the clutch clearance:

 

does the clutch clearance change after driving it? just curious because if it enganges at one point but not others what could cause that?

 

A clutch gap slightly wider than spec will often result in intermittent A/C problems.

 

so what should the gap spec be .15mm?

 

Did you look at the diagram?

 

coil could be heating up causing it to stop engaging

 

the clutch coil?

 

and the largest tab on the feeler gauge that would fit was a .030 over a .76 mm though im unsure if i have measured it correctly never used one before

 

The clutch coil generates the strong magnetic field that pulls the clutch into the pulley, causing the compressor to run. A faulty coil could also cause intermittent problems.

 

The clearance is obviously too large.

 

what should the clearance be?

 

and since it is too large how do i go about taking out some shims?and how many would i probably need to remove?

 

 

Don't remove any shims. Assuming you measured the clearance correctly (0.79mm), you would buy one 0.2mm shim and one 0.1mm shim (0.3mm) and install them both to bring the clearance to spec. That way your clearance would be 0.49mm.

 

do you have a diagram for the shim installation. and i believe i measured it correctly (used the largest tab on the feeler that would fit and not adding small tabs together), but how deep should the feeler go because in some spots around the plate it becomes tight when i push it in. and how did you come to know it needs to be .49 mm? curious not tryin to be a pain but rather learn if it is a formula or somethin

 

Arithmetic
0.79mm (current gap) - 0.3mm (shims you will add) = 0.49mm final gap

 

For the third time, did you read the diagram in post #5.

 

just take it off and mail it to me... I can fix that jewel right up

 

thanks for all your help. and yes i read the diagram i was misreading the diagram on the clearance. i know understand what it means. now the question is how much of a pain is replacing shims or a coil while the compressor is on the car? or is it worth it to jus buy a new compressor? and are these the only two remedies you can think of givin the information on the problem. again thanks for all your help

 

also do i have to go to the dealer for the shims?

 

Yes, they should not be expensive.

It's a tight space to work in, but it is possible to remove the clutch and pulley without removing the compressor from the car. This avoids the need to recover the refrigerant and recharge the system when the compressor is removed from the car.