hello all must say this site is awesome just found it and there is so much great info.

I race at a local circle track with a "stock" 1992 Honda accord ex. With and automatic transmission. The track is a short 1/4 mile or so asphalt track. We are running a 195 50 15 series tire, which is the size that most people in the class are running you get to choose. The only mods we are "allowed" is camber and spring rubbers. That's the background info.

The class is dominated by Saturn's with the MP6 automatic transmissions which have the following gear ratios:
1993-1997Second Design Base MP6
1st 2.53
2nd 1.17
3rd 0.81
4rth 0.60
Reverse 2.39
Final 4.1333

I am looking to replicate this for my Honda. I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction. Don't know if its possible or if maybe i should look for something else to play around with.


Also while the car is automatic now it does not have to remain automatic.

 

maybe this is an easier question to answer. Is there anyway to eliminate first gear and basically use second as first and third as second. As third gear in the honda transmission is very close to second in the saturn.

 

I would go with a manual transmission if possible. Would also compare your horsepower/torque numbers as compared to the saturns within your sanctioning bodies regulations...also keep in mind weight as well. Are there weight requirements etc. If the accord doesn't come close and there is another chassis that has a better advantage, then maybe look into going that route before modifying your current chassis.

 

ok so a more pressing problem came up we adjusted some handling stuff and gain a half second or so but there is a new problem.
We run in second gear and reach 6300 rpms going into the corners and are around 5 coming out. Well all the sudden coming out the car acts like it is hitting the chip and starts breaking up. The driver shifts into D4 and it goes away, though not right away sometimes, and the car drives fine from there, doesnt race so well though.
The D4 light is flashing so I used the paper clip trick and it came up with 4 which is the vehicle speed sensor. We replaced that, one pain in the butt. And it is still doing the same thing.
Now some more info on the car it has a stall torque converter in it, I believe the guy said 2300. Could that be causing the problem? Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance, also only have a week to figure it out.

 

Do you know what the transmission temps are like? Do you run a transmission cooler? Fluid condition? I am guessing you are overheating the trans if you are keeping it in 2nd gear constantly. Transmission may be slipping and that is whats giving you the "break-Up" that you are talking about.

 

just running the stock cooler, dont know a specific temp for the transmission but the fluid shows no signs of burning or any indications along those lines. Also it does when its warm and cold. That was our first thought also. Then we thought it was shifting down the first and having problems shifting back into second but I would expect the rpms to be alot higher if it was in first. Though maybe not come to think of it. Second gear at the end of the straights we are around 6300 and 65 mph or so. I would bet that, cant comfirm, coming out of the corner we are high 30s to low 40s. Is there anyway to check to see if this is happening?
Could the TCU be bad? Also it wouldn't have anything to do with the abs speed sensors on the transaxle would it?
What about a broken wire in the wire harness leading to the VSS?

 

I would definately check your harness for continuity to eliminate that possibility. What is the Rev limiter set at?

 

rev limiter is stock. Which I have no idea what it is. no alteration have been done to computer system. we are looking at getting a chipped computer but want to figure out whats going on with the car now. Where can I find what the ohms readings should be across the vss connector?

As far as the fluid is concered dexron VI is ok right?

 

I would seriously think about converting the vehicle to a manual trans or working with a chassis that is already a 5spd. Dealing with a Honda AT trans is not easy and they are not exactly built to perform in a race environment. Look more towards an engine management system that is tunable. Chipped computers are a guessing game. If you get an engine management system you can get your car dynotuned and squeeze out reliable horsepower tailored to your specific needs. As far as fluid..I would stick to OEM Honda ATF.

 

now staying with the chassis because it would be alot cheapper on our end for that seeing as the roll cage is in the car already what is our best bet for a swap? would that then also eliminate the tcu? and then do you need and ecu from a manual car?

 

Yes..you will need a manual ecu, shift assemblies, the trans/clutch, pedal assembly and a few other items..best to find a car at the local wrecking yard and pick all your pieces. A manual trans will give you more control over the vehicle imo.

 

Do it I spent 1800 on a rebuild and it still isn't working, anyone know if bad ecu's cause tranny failure?