So I'm planning to turbo my GSR. It has 140k miles on it and I'm going to do a in-frame rebuild the same time as I'm putting the turbo on so everything can break in together. My plan is to do all stock internals if I can and run low boost (6-12psi). I'm going to get the kit from CX racing (T3/T04e). I'm going to also get beefier clutch,bigger injectors,fuel pump,and a FMU until I can afford a standalone. I've heard you need to run lower compression pistons from some people,some people say they've had 15psi on the stock block and it did fine. If I could get as much input as possible as to what else will be needed to efficiently turbo it and have it reliable. It's my daily driver, I go to school and work so I don't have time to be tweaking this and adjusting that every day. So let me know guys!

Thanks,Austin

 

to get the ball rolling..

as fare as a inframe rebuild.. jus pull the motor.. u gotta do a clutch and rebuild .. so pull motor and clean her up why got it out..

ITS ALL IN THE TUNE... PSI is a rudimentary figure. a T25 (T TOO SMALL) at 15 psi is way diffrent then a pte 6262 at 15 psi..
"whats safe to run" kinda questions are POINTLESS. TUNE TUNE TUNE.. its all about the tune. a stock sleeve block with forged internals can handle 400 whp on pump gas safely, TUNED... lots of higher whp builds on sock blocks out there.. but there only on borrowed time.. lol

get some dsm 440s, a 88-91 CRX HF SI resistor box ( i know u can get from other hondas but these are most common). walbor 255.. not needed but will be in future..

if the FMU is a rising psi per boost kind.. STAY AWAY.. find a local tuner and get it tuned on CROME/ecutune/neptune.. if u got some extra $ get the s300..

also i know ur bugget is set for the CX kit.. just remember u get what u pay for.. good starter for yah. it will get u going but u will soon out grow ur kit..

hope this helps u and get u on the right track..

 

#1 no fmu. #2 get a beater so you can take your time and not rush into getting it done. We have all tried it. But things don't work perfect over night.

 

So those tuning programs you mentioned are free,correct? So what are the things I will 100% need right off of the bat to safely run the turbo at low boost?

 

No those programs are not free check out -- http://phearable.net/

This is the tuning portion of what punkracer was talking about.
This can get you on your way tuning wise

 

crome is free for the standard version and can be very effective with a good tuner. the .7 bar spring running on gate is really common on a gsr with a 57 trim. there are a ton in the gsr dyno thread and a ton on google. depending on the manifold and health of the engine 270-310whp is extremely common for that setup

 

I would buy another short block and build that and get everything you need, no fmu

 

i just looked at the website the op mentioned. cheap stuff. here's a few things you'll want to do if you go this route

get the cast iron manifold. not one of their tubular ones

get a real wastegate. spend the $230 on a tial. this is one part you do not want to cheap out on. if a cheap wastegate fails to open the turbo will keep climbing right past that 8psi or so you tune to run at

if you do that, find an obd1 p28 or p72 and have it chipped for crome, then tune it you'll at least be somewhat safe with the no name turbo.