i have some problems i was on the highway doin about 60 in 4th then lost power and i was thinking my timing belt broke but i let it sit for about 15 minutes and it fired up but wouldnt go past 3 grand on the tach....im getting a code reader later on tonight with the codes thanks for the help!

 

check fuel pressure, could be many things but that is where i would start. i had a similar problem and mine was fuel pressure regulator

 

its getting worse.....i here a ticking sound like a wire is cracked and it is jumping to ground but im getting a code reader tomarrow.......will be back with more information later thanks alot

 

You can check the CEL codes without a code reader/scanner... Check this thread out. it tells you how n all:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/check-engine-light-codes-cel-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtc-malfunction-indicator-light-mil-1490107/

 

ok...just pulled the plugs they looked good but there was a lot of oil down in the in the head where the plug goes on all 4 but i dont think that would bother it....cap and rotor looked real good and wires aint cracked i will be getting a code reader later on tonight and will post the codes at that time thanks alot again mike!

 

Just a suggestion here, don't run the car until you read the codes and find out what's wrong. If you don't want to wait until later tonight, that process described in the link provided by 6KAOS6 works really well.

The oil down in the plug tubes would be from worn/leaking tube seals. How many of them there are depends on if you have the F22B1 (VTEC) or the F22B2 (Non-VTEC). The VTEC only has the upper tube seals between the valve cover and the spark plug tubes. The Non VTEC has two sets of seals. One at the top and one in the middle, under the rocker arm assembly.

 

its the f22b2...250k on the clock the seals around the valve cover are new so im guessing there must be some around the head and block?

 

As stated the F22B2 has two sets of tube seals. the top ones are the ones usually replaced with a valve cover gasket job. The bottom ones people tend to skip as it requires the removal of the rocker assembly.



Yellow = Upper spark plug tube seals (may or may not have been replaced with valve cover gasket)
Red = Lower spark plug tube O-rings

 

I did those seals recently on my Accord and a friend's Civic. It's not hard, but you have to make sure the rocker arms stay free when you're bolting down the rocker arm assembly.

 

I.E. Back off all of the valve adjustment screws before to remove the assembly and do not tighten them until after everything is back together. then you can do your valve clearances before putting the valve cover back on.....

A Helms manual would be a good thing to have prior to attempting something like this.

 

the seals under the valve cover are new....so i guess i need to replace the ones under the rockers and that will fix the oil in the plug tubes? the link on here for jumping the little plug to get the cel codes dont make since to me so can someone explain it to me short and sweet? thanks alot again mike!

 

Under the glove box area is a blue 2 prong plug"atleast mine is blue". Have the car off take a paper clip or a wire n put each end of it into the 2 prong plug. Then turn the key all the way until the lights come on. BUT DON'T START IT!!! Then count the blinks...

i was throwin a code "72". It was a steady 7 blinks, then a pause, then 2 quick blinks, then a pause then it repeated its self. But if you r throwin' more codes then 1. You would get the next code n so on...

Hope that helps.

 

my father is coming over tomarrow with a code reader but the car had no muffler on it and he said a burnt valve on the exhaust side could this be possable?

 

Running one of these engines without a muffler won't usually cause a burnt exhaust valve. Running it with no exhaust at all might do something though! Have to wait and see what the code reader brings!

 

cam sensor is bad atleast thats what the code reader said

 

Are you going to check the wiring for the CYP prior to buying a new distributor? It could be something as simple as a loose or dirty connection inside the distributor. Or a dirty connector outside the distributor.

Testing the CYP is actually quite easy. Unplug the 4 pin connector from the distributor and check the resistance between the YEL & BLK wires that go into the distributor. If the resistance is between 260 - 460 the CYP sensor is still good. Start checking the wires between the distributor and ECU, then check the ECU. If the resistance is not between those numbers get a new distributor housing.

 

what pins do you check on the ecu? and where could you get a dizzy housing?

 

You want to remove the ECU connector and measure the resistance between CYP(P) C4 & CYP(M) C14. You need to see between 260 - 460 Ohms for it to be good.

Local parts store or Honda dealer $$$$. Dealer would be the best for quality internal electronics. An auto parts store reman housing would be the cheaper price tag. Not always the best quality electronics though.

 

thanks to all who helped...mainly ghostaccord! thanks alot buddy!

 

Hey im having this issue at the moment any way you can explain what i need to do in one Message.