Okay, I wasn't sure exactly where to post this so I figured this made the most sense. I just moved to LA and I have been having some problems with my b16a swapped 98hatch.

It's been throwing CEL 14. Just replaced the IACV with a brand new one and the same code came back about 300-400 miles later. The car runs a little jerky and stutters at a sustained speed. Sometimes at idle the car will drop all the way down to 100 where it looks like it's dead but the motor is still running.

So here's what the car has first off-
b16a jdm swap
AEM CAI
Greddy Exhaust
DC 4-1 header
Skunk2 Throttle Body (68mm)
Skunk2 intake manifold
Hondata intake manifold gasket
Type-R intake camshaft
Lightened flywheel
Upgraded clutch
...Running an OBD2 computer for CARB reasons


Does any one know of any reputable shops in the LA area? I'm new to the area and there are lots of shady places. I figure LA has got to be one of the tuner capitals though so there are definitely some legit shops here, I just don't know where.

Any help in greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

try another ecu, check for continuity (resistance) between ecu and sensor and the ground side. Also try another iacv, u may of picked up a bad one. Bleed the coolent system of air, clean ur throttle body and surrounding area

 

Pm me and I can send you to a shop that cam help you out

 

give me a call at 626-309 1771 i'll be more than happy to look at it i'm are located in alhambra, ca

 

g spot auto they can diagnose that
http://www.gspotauto.com/

 

something doesnt seem right..you are running an obd2 ecu correct?
your DTC should be P-xxxx (i.e. P0420 for a cat code) not cel or dtc 14
one or two digit dtc's are from obd1 ecu's/engines

 

also make sure that the map and iacv (i think) connectors are not swapped. they are both round 3 pin connectors and can easily be plugged into the wrong sensor/valve and cause the motor to code and run like crap

 

Awesome - Thanks for all the advice. I'll definitely make some calls this weekend when I don't have work.

And I said CEL 14 because the engine code flashes one slow blink and then four really fast. So that means CEL 14...correct? And in the bible that says it's IACV valve or circuit fault. But I've literally changed it three times, and the last time it was a brand new valve from honda. So that's why I'm confused.

Thanks again.

I'll let you know what the deal is when I figure it out.

 

where are you located in la?

 

ur hatch is obd2, your motor is obd2 and your ecu is obd2. you should be able to hook up a scanner and get a definate dtc. i think autozone lends out scanners or they can check the dtc's out for you on the spot

 

i have a feeling your map and iacv connectors are swapped

 

The motor isn't obd2, it's obd1. That's why I have a jumper harness to convert the computer. I have to make the car obd2 since my car is a 98 to pass smog.

And I really don't think the sensors are swapped. the only time I have ever pulled the sensor from the IACV was to change it so I don't see why they could be switched.

Personally I think it's the ecu or a wiring problem. But that's why I came here to ask since honda-tech is a great resource.

 

I'm located close to El Segundo

 

i was a bit confused, maybe still am... thats why i asked what obd the car and motor is...
so you have an obd1 b16 in an obd2 car, but your running an obd2 ecu? correct?
what engine harness are you running? obd1 or obd2?

are you trying to bar/ref your hatch?
you said you have to make your car obd2 since your car is a 98 to pass smog. then you'd have to get another motor that is 98 or newer in order to pass smog

according to your statements, you have a 98 hatch w/ obd2 ecu running your b16 motor; you SHOULD be able to hook up a scan tool to pull your codes because of the obd2 ecu.

ive been through this.. i have a 92 w/ a 94 motor that i got bar'd
im not at all giving you a hard time, i'd like to know the exact set-up so i can try and help you out. if you were closer to the pasadena area; i wouldnt mind looking at it

 

take a look at the iavc connector (idle air control valve) connector and let me know how many wires and what color they are

 

Okay...so the motor is obd1 and the ecu is obd2. I was planning on refing it after I get this problem resolved.

Technically as long as the computer is obd2, I can pass smog. So I have a jumper harness that makes the car run an obd2 comp. As long as it thinks it's obd2, it's legit. I have already passed a smog only test before with this set-up.

I just want the car to run properly. It's been really unreliable recently and it all started with the IACV.

 

you may have gotten lucky @ the test only place, but in order to pass the ref; the motor has to be same year of vehicle or newer