******Solution at the bottom******

I've been working on a 1993 Accord Lx manual trans with previous front end damage where the radiator was bent and driver's headlight was broken. Cruise control does not work--no main switch or dash light--so I went through the FSM to start troubleshooting.

So far I've done this (in order):

-There was a bad cc main / sunroof switch and it was replaced with a working unit.

-Reinstalled the missing rubber bushing in the clutch pedal for the clutch switch. Switch adjusted and tested at the terminal.

-Tested each wire at the 14-P connector for the control unit under the dash. Everything checks okay.

-Replaced the control unit since since all the connections (in the test above) passed.

-Set the throttle cable within spec, then set cruise control actuator cable within spec. Each cable operates pretty smoothly.


At this point the cruise control can be set (dash light goes ON) and as the actuator engages the throttle it quickly gives away and the dash light goes OFF. I can do this over and over while having the cruise control engaged for only about 1 to 5 seconds and about 10 seconds max at a time. I have been able to cancel the CC with the clutch and brake pedal within this time. However, I can keep the CC engaged as long as the accel button is being held and the CC goes off once the button is released.

I have also spent hours trying to fine adjust the actuator cable free play hoping I will have the same luck as someone in this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...cruise+control

I also have recently tested the actuator using a voltage at the 4-P connector and a vacuum gauge--as per the FSM. Everything checks out okay. The vacuum reservoir, check valve and all hoses up to the intake manifold all hold vacuum.

The accel and set buttons steering wheel buttons have not been checked at the 20-P connector under the steering wheel, but seeing how the main unit passes all tests this is probably unnecessary. Right?

What's left to check?

I feel as though I have a bad actuator / solenoids, even though the solenoids are within resistance spec. Possibly an open or short in the wire from the front end accident?

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SOLUTION:

I simply swapped in another actuator assembly and it works as good as new.

I probably tested the actuator / solenoid about 5 times to make sure I was getting accurate results. If I did the test procedure correctly, then the jumper wired method (as per the FSM) can't troubleshoot what happens under real driving conditions.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

 

Sorry to know about that.I hope a good technician can help you out.