So I have a 97 Accord that I swapped a 94 H22a motor in to. I'm running stock P13 with conversion harness and newly installed skunk2 valvetrain and cams. I'm using the obd2 Accord harness thats been modified to fit the H22. The car will turn over but wont stay running. The only code I'm getting is 4. Which is CKP sensor. I re-routed all the wires from the crank pulley area to the distributor. I double checked my wiring to the distributor and I ran it all correctly. I'm getting fuel everywhere and spark. But the spark looks a little weak and the distributor seems to be turning slower than normal. I also tried adjusting the ignition timing and nothing helped. I know it has something to do with the CKP sensor but I'm not sure where to go from here. Should I wire the CKP right to the ECU to see if theres a disconnect somewhere in the wiring? The motor ran fine before it was taken out of my CB7. I had to put in a new distributor bc the old one broke during install at one of the mounting points. The only other thing I can think of is that I have the timing belt off a tooth or so but I was very careful to keep everything lined up during install. Also there isnt a ground wire to bolt to the thermostat but I have a 1400 page Honda shop manual and it doesn't show a ground for the 97 Accord at the thermostat. Anyone have any ideas?? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Ok so I did figure out that the 97 Accord doesnt have a thermostat ground. Instead the ground is connected under the intake manifold, which I have hooked up. So thats definitely not my problem. I'm going to take a wire brush to all my grounding points just to make sure. Any other suggestions???

 

Anyone have have any suggestions?

 

Re-checked all my grounds and even sanded them some to make sure they're getting good contact. Swapped distributors and checked my odb2 to obd1 wiring. I'm stumped.

 

I'd be concerned with the Code. Are you sure it isn't 180* out, hard to do but can happen.

 

Checked for CELs again and now the CEL light is just lighting up solid and doing nothing.

 

Did you happen to get the map and tps wires switched.

 

I'll try switching the tps & map but I dont think they're backwards. The distributor isnt 180 out. I tried that when I swapped the distributors yesterday. It wouldnt even fit in the opposite way. I'm gonna try to run the CKP/CYP/TDC right to the ecu. Thanks for your help.

 

As I said, hard to do but I have seen some force it in.....When the dist "broke", is it possible the wires got damaged?

And to be totally honest, never done any kind of swap or upgrade, my Hondas are all stock. Just giving ideas of things to check based upon reading a ton,,,,oh and the V8 Chevy's are real easy to stab 180* out.

 

x2 on running the CKP & TDC wires to the ECU vs going through the distributor. Test the wiring from the sensor connectors to the ECU connector and make sure there isn't any resistance. Also test each wire for body ground, make sure there aren't any shorts/open wires.

 

Ok I'll try that Ghost. I also think my other problem may be the fact that I'm using DSM blue top injectors and I still have the OBD2 resistor hooked up. I'm going to rewire my CB7 resistor up and see what happens. I just read a post by you, Ghost, and it mentioned the difference in the resistance and ohms between DSM, OBD1 and OBD2 injectors.

 

You won't be able to run 450cc injectors off the stock P13 ECU. The engine is probably flooding and stalling out. The ECU will open the 450cc injectors for the same duration as the stock 310cc would be and cause flooding. In order to run 450cc injectors you will require an ECU that can be tuned. As for the resistor box, don't bother switching the resistor box. The OBD1 & OBD2 boxes are the same part. Unless it is faulty.

 

Ok well I plan on having it tuned on Hondata at Evan's Tuning here in PA as soon as I get the car running. But you're saying that the car wont even idle with the DSMs until its tuned? I figured it would atleast fire up.

 

What cams are you using? A bit more about your setup would be useful. The P13 ECU will be pushing too much fuel with the 450s. You woudl probably have better luck if you slapped in a set of stock low impedance 310cc injectors, depending on your cams!

 

I'm still not sure thats my only problem, because I unhooked the pump and tried spraying 2+2 in the throttle body and it still wouldnt fire. I'm going to put my old injectors back in for now just so I know I can eliminate that as being the problem. I also checked my plugs and they were moist but nothing outrageous.

 

Proper Air:Fuel mixture, Spark & Timing are the main ingredients required to get an engine running. Best to rule out what you can and go from there.

If you tried starter fluid and it didn't work you could have some timing/spark issues as well. Unless you still had the injectors hooked up when you tried the starter fluid....

 

Here's my setup:

94 JDM H22a motor/transmission
Rosko Racing Euro-R IM w/ITR TB Maxbore to 65mm
Skunk2 Pro 1 Cams
Head work includes 5 angle valve job & new seals
Skunk2 titanium valvesprings
Skunk2 titanium retainers
Skunk2 titanium Valves
Skunk2 adjustable cam gears
Hytech Header
DSM blue top injectors
AEM fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator
3.5" custom intake with BPI flowstack
Greddy timing belt
Apexi WS2 muffler
Exedy stage 1 clutch & lightweight flywheel
Unorthodox Racing Pullies
NGK Plugs/Wires
No a/c, p/s or c/c
H23 Manual Tensioner Swap

Plan on tuning with Hondata S300

 

The injectors were still hooked up but I had the fuel pump unplugged for a while. Should I be trying a different method? I've done swaps before but never a build like I'm doing now so alot of this is new to me. I really appreciate your help. I've went off alot of threads that you've posted in and they have helped me tremendously. Thank you.

 

I never even thought about the fuel still being in the lines for the injectors to pull from. I think thats what you're getting at haha. I still have my jdm H22a injectors so I'll put them back in & wire the crank sensors right to the ECU and go from there. I'm also still wondering if the cheap conversion harness I bought off ebay has something to do with it also. I've been searching all day and that seems to come up quite often.

 

Yeah the first conversion harness I bought off ebay had a few mixed up wires.

You need to cross reference the OBD1 ECU pinout diagram and the OBD2 Accord ECU diagrams.

 

Thanks for the help Ghost. I'm gg try the things you suggested and see what happens.

 

I swapped out the dsm injectors with my stock injectors but still no luck. I checked the plugs to make sure they weren't too saturated but they looked great. I also tried swapping the resistors and checked my ebay conversion harness but everything is wired where it should be. I did notice I'm missing the ground that goes on the passenger side engine bay right beside the egr control solenoid. I have no idea where its at. The kid that had the car before me did all kinds of chopping of the harness so I'm going to try and trace it back to harness that comes out by the clutch master cylindar. Tested all my grounds and they're all running at 12v. I'm going to wire the distributor sensors right to the ECU but I ran out of time tonight. The only other thing I can figure is the timing is off. My spark also looks pretty weak so I'm going to check into that also. Any other suggestions, please post them. Thanks.

 

The main ground location (G101) on the 5th gen Accords (94-97) is found on the driver side end of the intake manifold. Under one of the vacuum junction bolts.



Make sure that is connected and making clean contact with the intake.

 

Yeah I checked that. Getting 12v. I have both Honda shop manuals for the Prelude and the Accord. My ECU CEL light's just staying on solid when I check for codes. So as for now i have no codes. I don't know what else to look at. Its gotta be the timing. I'm getting my wisdom teeth cut out today so I wont be able to work on it tonight. Hopefully tomorrow.

 

Well back on my feet today. I'm gonna try the screwdriver trick in cylindar 1 and see if my timing is off before I go tearing everything apart. I'm also going to try wiring the distributor sensors right to the ecu but I dont think thats the problem. The car was an external coil and now the H22 is internal but I think I did the conversion right. All I do is connect the black/white and yellow wires that were hooked to the coil connector right? I think they're right bc I do have spark. The spark just looks a little weak.