im rebuilding a b18c gsr with a spun rod bearing im gonna use new(oem) crank and rods with p73 itr pistons oem deck height. stock gsr head port and polished im looking for a quick reliable Daily driver.Going by (http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c...c/compcalc.php) website im getting like 11.6:1 comp with a 2 layer head gasket where can i get one? please lave and input on build please!

 

and on this build with a phearable.net base map be ok?

 

So just to make sure I read that right...Your buying a brand new oem crank, new oem rods, and new oem pistons? You realize the crank alone is about $800 or so.

You'd probably be better off finding a used oem crank in good condition for $150 or $200 and getting forged rods and pistons for $700 or $800.

If nothing else get a good used crank and buy a new oem rod to replace the bad one. Get a set of nippon itr replica pistons and you'd have just as a reliable setup for half the cost. Maybe less than half.

Lets see:
OEM Crankshaft- $800
OEM Rods- $120 a piece puts you at near $500 for four of them
Oem Pistons- $100 a piece or so after you factor in rings and wrist pins so another $400 for pistons

Your at about $1700 just to fix the bottom end in the way you described. You could buy a Jdm ITR long block for $2300.

Lets think about this in a more cost effective manner.

Used good condition oem crank- $200 on the high side
replacement rod for the bad one- $120
Nippon cast ITR pistons with rings and wrist pins- $165
Factor in another $150 or $200 to pay a machine shop to hone the cylinder walls and change over your pistons and your at $700 roughly. It will be just as reliable but for less than half the cost.

As far as a pherable base map goes. I had one. The car ran ok. I got a map from AllM0T0R on here when I bought an RTP Demon board from him and my teg woke up. Definite night and day difference. Also talk to Chris Harris at Xenocron. They are a very good company as well.

 

I want to know if the rod is really "bad". In order to ruin that rod it had to have been run on spun HARD for a decent amount of time to oval it out to the point of not being usable anymore. Have a machine shop measure it when you get a crank to see if re-rounding it will keep it in spec. I wouldnt bother buying a new crank, find a GSR or ITR crank locally and save some bucks.

 

im going to re use the rods if there all ok if ones bad il buy one and yea i meant getting an used crank. these pistons (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RS-MA...Q5fAccessories)

 

and what about the head gasket? and you think a base-map from Xenocron will be better then phearable

 

you think if i can find ls rods and crank would be beter then running the gsr

 

Many people use rs machine pistons. They will work fine.

I believe spoon does 2 layer head gaskets. They just remove the middle layer from an oem gasket. Be realistic though, are the .1 or.2 compression points you gain really worth the 1 whp they will net? A full compression point is only worth about 6whp so is the extra $100 over an oem head gasket really worth it? Just my way of looking at it.

A basemap is a basemap. Its designed to get you safely to a tuner. Though they vary from company to company, they will all be fairly close in the long run. You really need to have your car dynoed and tuned to get the most out of it. So short answer yes it will run fine on a basemap, but will you get the most out of it? No.

 

Unless you are going to shotpeen the ls rods and use arp bolts as well as get the ls crank micropolished and the rotating assembley balanced just stick with your original plan.

 

k thanks alot