STOMPED! RS machine piston b20, nonvtec=130psi compression:(
My buddy put together an all motor b20nonvtec and it doesn't seem to be putting up the numbers we were hoping for.
B20 block 84.5mm(fresh bore/hone)
RS machine "itr spec" pistons (free floating)
Arp rod bolts(machine shop installed and reconditioned rods)
ACL bearings
Pr4 head
Brian crower valves, valvesprings, retainers, and stg2 cams
DC 4-1
3in intake-->velocity stack
Stock everything else
Motor was broken in on the dyno and tuned immediately after rebuild. DOESNT smoke, doesn't burn anyone oil.
Tuning only yielded 145whp, 130trq! Intake gear advanced all the way just to get timing @ 16degrees, exhaust stock! SOMETHING isn't right in this equation.
Anyone have any clue as to what may be yielding these numbers??
B20 block 84.5mm(fresh bore/hone)
RS machine "itr spec" pistons (free floating)
Arp rod bolts(machine shop installed and reconditioned rods)
ACL bearings
Pr4 head
Brian crower valves, valvesprings, retainers, and stg2 cams
DC 4-1
3in intake-->velocity stack
Stock everything else
Motor was broken in on the dyno and tuned immediately after rebuild. DOESNT smoke, doesn't burn anyone oil.
Tuning only yielded 145whp, 130trq! Intake gear advanced all the way just to get timing @ 16degrees, exhaust stock! SOMETHING isn't right in this equation.
Anyone have any clue as to what may be yielding these numbers??
If your intake cam gear is advanced that far just to get 16 degree's. I'd check your timing belt to make sure its on right.
How do you expect to make power trough a stock header, intake manifold, exhaust. The thing that is holding you back the most right now would be the stock header and exhaust + stock intake box . Get a competent header. Depending on your budget. A 2.5" exhaust or if possible a 3" wouldn't hurt. Or an even more simpler solution to his problem. Buy a vtec conversion kit and a gsr or b16 head and have it tunned by someone ho knows what they are doing. About the 130 PSI #. Let your friend drive the car for a little while until the rings seat all the way and watch the numbers grow. Also how are you performing the comp test. With the spark plugs out and the throttle open?
Exactly. Anytime something jumps out and smacks you in the face, like the timing having to be adjusted that much just to hit 16 degrees should be a huge red flag that something is way off. Reset your engine back to TDC and start over making sure all your timing marks line up and go from there. When timing is off that much, power will be too.
Yeah, you don't have something right, but just the same, you're not going to make big power on those cams. IIRC the BC stg2 cams are similar to the Crower 403 that I have in my B18. They suck. Fix your timing, but I would go for stg3 cams anyways or you will be disappointed. You shouldn't suffer any driveability or major tuning problems on stg3 and you've got the compression for it. And yeah, I/H/E is holding you waaaaaaay back.
DC 4-1(Hytech rep soon)
And tuned open header!
And yes, the power fell flat on it's face at 6500. I guess timing check again and then retune
And tuned open header!
And yes, the power fell flat on it's face at 6500. I guess timing check again and then retune
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Hey, I've looked all over the Internet for dynos showing power above 6500 with stock intake manifold for B18 LS / B20 and it's not gonna happen. The runners are just too damn long and the curved shape is just too restrictive. I went to B16a intake with my 403's and had much better results, especially after tuning. I've also never made any noticeable power until I advanced the intake cam 3 degrees and added in some exhaust retard for overlap.
are the comp test numbers all even? Iv seen crappy comp testers read as much as 80 psi low. and yea it def sounds like your off a tooth on cam timing.
You are no were near maximum pressure . Your timing belt is off man simple as . Would nicer bolt ons yield more power sure but nothing is going to help till your timing belt is fixed simple as that.
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