i bought a 91 crx si with a b18a1 swap already in. the brakes in the front have already been upgraded to integra brakes but the rear havent. what do i need to have integra brakes in the rear?

 

You already have integra brakes in the rear lol

Integra rotors/pads = 91 CRX Si rotor/pads


You can install larger rear disc using EP3 stuff, but it's overkill for you setup.

Here's a how to for that if you decide.
http://eastcoastefcivics.com/index.php?topic=2036.0

 

Yup, the CRX and Integra have the same brakes in the back.

 

Adding to the size of your rear brakes will give you no more performance it will add weight that is about all. Most of the braking is done on the front brakes of these little cars.

 

What you really want is the 1st Gen CRX HF rear drums. They are all aluminum and are the lightest rear brake setup available. They will work on 88-91 civic/crx (with rear drums).

 

i rather not have drum brakes in the back no offense i cant deal with them lol nut back to my main question my brake calipers are bigger in the front than the back. and if i get slotted rotors i can just get crx si rotors ?

 

get the integra rotors for the front. like toad said, 80% of the work is done by the front so upgrading the back is a waste.

 

This is normal.


You probably want to get the correct rotors and pads for what braking system you have.

Example: If you have Integra brakes on the front, you should probably get integra pads/rotors. But hey that just makes too much sense.

 

We have cross drilled front and rear rotors available, with zinc plating and premium metallic pads for $155. Email atomparts@hotmail.com for more info.

 

In response to the Original Post, I think lightweight drums in the rear would be best for a drag car as that would help reduce intertia during acceleration, for a track car, also helps with braking*(less rotating mass/inertia slows down quicker too). As the one fellow kept repeating, most of the braking like 75% is done by the front wheels anyhow. I might drive spirited myself on the street but not racing and I think this lighter setup will help save fuel, so I am going aluminum. Also lighter drums means less unspring mass, which helps the suspension work better.
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I have a 1988 CRX HF WITH CAST IRON DRUMS. I am getting Aluminum Drums for my car now.
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CONSIDERING DRILLING HOLES IN THE ALUMINUM DRUM HOUSINGS to lighten them further? On the sides where the wheel studs protrude. Just to REDUCE Rotating mass. I CONSIDERING Drilling around the perimeter where the friction surface/steel lining is located, to help vent hot gases and brake dust from the shoes during braking.
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What are your guys thoughts about this extreme idea?

Thanks
Dave

 

why did you reply to this old, and quite frankly unrelated thread? why are noobs afraid to just start new threads???

your 88 Hf came with iron drums. the aluminum ones are from 1g CRX.

and your idea is pointless.

 

First. Look at the date the last post was made before being a Necromancer and raising a zombie thread from the dead.

Second. Do not mess with the integrity of brake hardware or suspension. If the cast AL cracks and completely brakes apart what happens next? The wheel cylinder pops out leaking fluid. Your peddle goes to the floor. You then pull the e-brake, but only on side slightly engages because the other one is broken.


Then, you die.

And even worst, your EF then looks like this:


Why? Because you wanted to save some ounces. Don't be stupid. Just go to the gym and work out or don't eat lunch to save weight.

 

The first part is step by step how it goes. It's a terrible experience. I had my rear drum split all the way around. You downshift and lay on the horn.

Not guaranteed to die though.

 

Let me introduce you to my friend.



His name is Darwin. He wrote this Law. It says if your stupid enough to compromise the integrity of your brakes to save weight, you shouldn't reproduce.

So...

Step 1: Drill holes in cast AL Drums.
Step 2: End your blood line.

(I'm having a bad week.)

 

You're*